GODOX AD600 Witstro

Guys, not a good image example wiht my new Xplor, but more of a technique... two images both shot at 2.8 and 1/160

1st image at 2.8 and 1/160 400 iso

2nd image at 2.8 and 1/160 100 iso

Im wondering why the big difference in color with hardly much iso bump..I know the iso will affect flash output, but why the big color difference?

The actual color of the walls are more of a light off white/cream

How much ambient?

More/less ambient light (of a different color temperature) balancing with the 5600k strobe temperature.

Did the flash even fire in the first image?

If you look at the first image and compare the shadows on the face to the second image (assuming ISO was the only change), you can see the difference in lighting ratios.

In the first image, you have a pretty good balance of light on the face without any real shadow/light pattern. It looks like you have your light high up on camera right and the (prominent) ambient source light looks to be lower on camera left.

Your camera's white balance probably did not change much between the two and the first is about half ambient (most likely 3200k). In the second, you can see shadows on the face in a rembrandt(ish) light pattern, indicating that the ambient is doing less and having less effect on the color (temperature/white balance).

I was assuming the AD600 was the square catchlights in her eyes, but now I'm curious to know, as well...

I suspect that is a window. But just my guess.

nixland wrote in post #18006182
I see. So it's just like FT16 where all groups always fire if we push test button?

Yes unless you turn them off like in the video.

Hey guys no you're right the soft box was the catchlight and was placed upper camera right there was some ambient from a porch door about 20 feet away and left

Info shows flash did fire on both...looks like iso was the only factor.

Temp on first image was 5500k

2nd was 5150k

Was the strobe/softbox moved at all? If not, then I really don't think the strobe fired in the first shot.

In the first image, you can see the color difference between the two sides of her face. Look at her ears for the greatest difference. That's why I think the AD600 fired.

Although close, the first image is not 1:1 ratios and you can see the same light/shadow pattern on her face as is in the second image. You can see the same shadow under her nose and also under her cheekbone on the (camera) left side of her face. There is also the highlight on the ridge of her nose and where her skin is coolest in the first image, there is the most light in the second (4:1 / 5:1) image.

rala wrote in post #18004546
If that is indeed the case then you are right, of course.
I automatically thought it would support TTL.

But looking at the technical specs it really seems that TTL was omitted from this transmitter.
That's too bad, I really like it that it has more buttons for all the functions (ready beep, modeling light, etc.).
It is interesting that they still have not added a button for 2nd-curtain sync.
(Also, why is the shutter speed range in 2nd-curtain mode so limited with the AD600? The shutter must be in the range 30s-1/30. 1/30 is not really fast enough for my style, 1/10th or 1/5th would be way better.)

Why do they release a new transmitter with less functionality anyway?
Or did I miss something else? (I assume they could easily add more groups to the X1C-T, so I don't think that is a good reason to develop, manufacture and sell another transmitter.)

Everything I've read about 2nd curtain, and all my experience using it, suggests it's only useful at speeds lower than 1/30, but that should be OK for you because 1/10 and 1/5 both fall within the range provided.

digitalduck wrote in post #18006248
Hey guys no you're right the soft box was the catchlight and was placed upper camera right there was some ambient from a porch door about 20 feet away and left

Info shows flash did fire on both...looks like iso was the only factor.

Temp on first image was 5500k

2nd was 5150k

The ISO change turned down the ambient light 2 EV. In the first image there is the bluish catch light from the softbox in each eye indicating upper camera light. There is also a bright longish more yellow catchlight on the camera left side of the eye from the window.

If the second image there is essentially no catch light from the window. The shadow pattern is also consistent with reducing fill light 2 EV.

Its important, when using TTL, to remember that the camera is going to be using two exposure readings. That means that, if one wants the flash lighting to dominate, the camera exposure setting have to result in an ambient exposure that is at least 2 and preferably 3 or 4 EV below proper exposure. Then the flash exposure via TTL will dominate the exposure. These images confirm that more than 2 is better.

dmward wrote in post #18006704
...

Its important, when using TTL, to remember that the camera is going to be using two exposure readings. That means that, if one wants the flash lighting to dominate, the camera exposure setting have to result in an ambient exposure that is at least 2 and preferably 3 or 4 EV below proper exposure. Then the flash exposure via TTL will dominate the exposure. These images confirm that more than 2 is better.

This^
But not just when using TTL, there's always 2 exposures to consider, even if we're in a studio and all the consideration is 'ambient will be overexposed by 10 stops, so nothing to worry about'.

Phil V wrote in post #18006505
Everything I've read about 2nd curtain, and all my experience using it, suggests it's only useful at speeds lower than 1/30, but that should be OK for you because 1/10 and 1/5 both fall within the range provided.

Yeah.... Shame on me. I already admitted my fault. You are absolutely right, of course.