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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 27 Apr 2016 (Wednesday) 14:46
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1D X Mark II Owners Unite! Discuss & Post Photos

 
jwcdds
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May 22, 2016 12:33 |  #916

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #18015154 (external link)
no, not the AF points, the in viewfinder information that you can turn on - such as drive mode, WB, Metering, etc - they are all dark black - in the 5DSR when you want to cycle through the indicators to change settings while looking through the viewfinder, they go read, and you can see what you are doing

Ah... I gotcha.


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May 22, 2016 13:28 |  #917

HKFEVER wrote in post #18012148 (external link)
Anyone has similar issue?

I edited a file couple days ago with PS, and the file in CFast is good.
QUOTED IMAGE

But today, I re-open the file direct from the CFast card, with PS and DPP4, this shows up :(

Is it the CFast card or else?

SanDisk CFast reader runs hot after 1/2 hr.

I have re-format the card with 1DX2, and finger crossed :(

thumbnail
Hosted photo: posted by HKFEVER in
./showthread.php?p=180​12148&i=i185643261
forum: Canon EOS Digital Cameras

I observed it too. Not sure if this is because of heat though the reader does get relatively hot. Random files show such patches and I observed it only with the RAW files not with JPEGs. Last assignment, it was 2 / 800 images. I guess it is the card reader problem as well. The files show up okay in the camera.


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May 22, 2016 13:28 |  #918

I'm not an experienced bird shooter, so here's a newbie question: Let's say I have a bird standing still on a branch, but I want to catch it while it flies away, so what AF setting should I use, and what AF area of focus?


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May 22, 2016 14:40 |  #919

Dankata wrote in post #18015197 (external link)
I'm not an experienced bird shooter, so here's a newbie question: Let's say I have a bird standing still on a branch, but I want to catch it while it flies away, so what AF setting should I use, and what AF area of focus?

I'd use Servo, Case 2, single point with 8 assist, back-button focus and try to follow the bird as it takes-off. Bigger birds will usually take-off into the wind and most park their breakfast shortly before departure.

Depending on background, fully automatic (i.e. all 61-points) may work but it will probably grab a wing instead of the head. Don't forget to allow plenty of space for the wings and leave space above the bird for it to jump into.


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May 22, 2016 14:42 |  #920

Dankata wrote in post #18015197 (external link)
I'm not an experienced bird shooter, so here's a newbie question: Let's say I have a bird standing still on a branch, but I want to catch it while it flies away, so what AF setting should I use, and what AF area of focus?

AI Servo. One Shot would not do the job and there are no issues with shooting static objects in AI Servo. You would want the Drive mode in high speed continuos.

If I were taking time to specifically set up for that shot it would depend on a few things. If you just want it as it flies away it is not that as tough to do as trying to track it as well, especially if it is small.

If you just want to catch it as it flies away one of the expansion AF modes would work. The key here is to hold onto AF as long as possible while you burst because that bird may be faster than you. A small one will be for sure. To force the system to not want to give up the initial target for as long as possible I would set the Tracking Sensitivity to -2 . This for any Case # you choose to work iwth. Case 2 is designed for this. Factory TS is-1 but I'd still set it to -2.

Now you have a subject that accelerates quickly. Case 4 is set up for that but you still have to keep the AF points on the bird as best you can as it takes off. Again here is where TS set t -2 buys you some time if the bird gets off your selected AF points.

I am very confident in my 7D2's zone AF which is basically identical to the 1DX II. I would try 61 point zone and activate the initial AF point. Now you can put the AF point of your choice (you can move it around) and you have 61 points working for you.

I would also use Case 6 because like Case 4 were accel/decel is increased and so is AF switching. You want the AF points to switch quickly as the bird moves across the frame.

The biggest challenge is using the BBF to lock onto the bird and being fast enough to press the shutter as it takes off. You will be surprised at how little time you have to react. With 61 points to help you while you pan helps. Again this all depends on how big the bird is.

Try case 4 and/or 6 in zone and see how it goes.

Just a note. If you use 61 point zone and activate the initial AF point it works like single point shooting. Once the initial AF point locks onto the subject it drops out and becomes part of the 61 point zone cluster until you stop AF. Then the cycle repeats again. Also iTR factory default settings are set to ON and they activate in zone AF. I would turn them off for now while you are testing.

I know don't own the 1DX II but I did read the manual but if I did, which I hope to I would it up that way. I do lot of BIF in zone AF. I'm curious to see what others suggest.


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May 22, 2016 14:46 |  #921

Scott_online wrote in post #18015267 (external link)
I'd use Servo, Case 2, single point with 8 assist, back-button focus and try to follow the bird as it takes-off. Bigger birds will usually take-off into the wind and most park their breakfast shortly before departure.

Depending on background, fully automatic (i.e. all 61-points) may work but it will probably grab a wing instead of the head. Don't forget to allow plenty of space for the wings and leave space above the bird for it to jump into.

I'd have no issue using Case 2 as well. I use it and CSE 6 a lot.


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May 22, 2016 14:56 |  #922

Dankata wrote in post #18015197 (external link)
I'm not an experienced bird shooter, so here's a newbie question: Let's say I have a bird standing still on a branch, but I want to catch it while it flies away, so what AF setting should I use, and what AF area of focus?


You want to set it up for the "Hail Mary", IF in fact you use it for birding a lot.
I do a walk through with the 1D4/1D3 here;

https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=17951424


There are far more complex ways to set up 5D3 and 7D2 with more options. I have not shot with a 1Dx/1or2 yet, so I don't know the specifics, what I do know is you can get even more dialed in with 1Dx than 1D4.

That said, AI Servo, BBF, and either expansion, or all AF points. I prefer expansion most of the time.


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May 22, 2016 15:45 |  #923

OoF wrote in post #18015195 (external link)
I observed it too. Not sure if this is because of heat though the reader does get relatively hot. Random files show such patches and I observed it only with the RAW files not with JPEGs. Last assignment, it was 2 / 800 images. I guess it is the card reader problem as well. The files show up okay in the camera.

As far as I understand (even if you're only shooting raw) the image you see in camera will be effectively a JPEG thumbnail embedded in the raw file.

I'd assume that the thumbnail display you get when viewing a folder of images on a PC or Mac will also be reading the embedded JPEG (as opposed to trying to decode the raw Bayer data). However, Lightroom will (I believe) be decoding the actual raw info when you import and display.

So, it might be worth seeing if the thumbnail image in a folder view is OK; if it is then it's likely to be corrupt raw info (perhaps on the card, rather than a problem with the card reader). If it's not OK in a folder view (but still OK on camera) then it is more likely to be a card reader problem.

If you can tether the camera with just the questionable card present and copy the file that way (and it's still damaged) that would also indicate a card problem rather than the card reader.


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May 22, 2016 16:49 |  #924

Dankata wrote in post #18015197 (external link)
I'm not an experienced bird shooter, so here's a newbie question: Let's say I have a bird standing still on a branch, but I want to catch it while it flies away, so what AF setting should I use, and what AF area of focus?

9 times out of 10, the bird will spin and fly away from you. Increase your chances by remembering birds prefer to take off into the wind so have wind at your back. Ai Servo, max burst


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May 22, 2016 17:58 |  #925

Another thing that can really help is working with a team. My team is Poof and I. In Chile we'd spot a Black Chested Eagle from far off (Patagonia has lots of wide open spaces). She'd drop me off, I'd get in best position I could, then she'd drive past the eagle (very often if you stop directly across or by the eagle and a lot of other birds they bolt) then stop and get out of the car....once she'd get close enough they would fly and often in my direction-
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May 22, 2016 21:27 |  #926

buddy4344 wrote in post #18015393 (external link)
9 times out of 10, the bird will spin and fly away from you. Increase your chances by remembering birds prefer to take off into the wind so have wind at your back. Ai Servo, max burst

That is great advice. I was shooting mallards at a local preserve and another photog told me how to tell when they were ready to take off. When one starts to bob it's head up and down and the rest join in they go.


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May 22, 2016 21:54 |  #927

I took the new body out to a local Wildlife Preserve this weekend and was quite pleased with it, despite less than optimal skies... :)

All shot with 100~400 V2 + 1.4x TC, handheld.

Female Summer Tanager

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Indigo Bunting

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Bluegray Gnatcatcher

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Dickcissel(s) - These were shout out the car window.

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May 22, 2016 22:56 |  #928

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May 22, 2016 23:39 |  #929

I am still extremely happy with my purchase. Color me impressed with the shadow recovery. It may not be the best according to the studio comparisons by other review site(s). But I must say, it is QUITE GOOD and more importantly, MUCH better than previous Canons.

Changed Color Temp. Highlights -30, Shadows +100, Whites +25, Clariy +10.
No NR done.

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May 23, 2016 03:04 |  #930

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