Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Weddings & Other Family Events Talk 
Thread started 24 May 2016 (Tuesday) 20:31
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

First E-session and some questions

 
digitalduck
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
     
May 24, 2016 20:31 |  #1

Hi guys.... so did my first engagement session Sunday. Along with that it was my 2nd session using my new Xplor.

I did have a couple questions about some techniques I still dont fully have 100% grasp of.

1. First I tried a pic or two in TTL, just to test exposure. I had hands free unit in a softbox, wiht Xplor 600 in bag over shoulder. Even though TTL is what it is, and is not 100%, the static shots came out dark? Would it potentially be becuase I was paying more attention to my aperture (2.8) and perhaps sometimes wasnt zeroing out my in camera meter? Irealized today that I think I was chimping first once and then knowing what adjustment i needed to make then it would turn out... if I set my aperture, will TTL find the exposure or was it either too far away? In which case i would think it would go from whatever power setting down to 1/1 in order to gain proper exposure.... will TTL stop at a certain power setting or would it, in theory, go to 1/1?

2. Some shots I wanted to get a nice light and airy feel and instead ended up going into HSS and eve nthough the client liked the look, I was hoping to end up with a different look. I know its more aperture and iso dependent, but ideally I would just want to set my camera settings to achieve the light and airy look and thene have my Xplor there to add fill and catch lights... I wish I could take the HSS exposre and still adjust in post to give it a airy feel, but too many hihglights would be blown.

Thats all... :)


IMAGE: http://s33.postimg.org/lk5pptwnz/IMG_7335_2.jpg

IMAGE: http://s33.postimg.org/dvvshbqjj/IMG_7310.jpg

IMAGE: http://s33.postimg.org/np49m0uu7/IMG_7368.jpg

IMAGE: http://s33.postimg.org/t8uactg9r/IMG_7324_2.jpg

IMAGE: http://s33.postimg.org/z490fdo2n/IMG_7433.jpg

IMAGE: http://s33.postimg.org/3olitnl7j/IMG_7333.jpg



  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
MalVeauX
"Looks rough and well used"
Avatar
13,326 posts
Gallery: 1715 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 10760
Joined Feb 2013
Location: Florida
     
May 24, 2016 20:56 |  #2

Heya,

I'll try and answer a few, but maybe someone else can give definitive answers, as I do not have the XPLOR.

TTL isn't perfect, it's handy, but in a session like this, you can have issues because of how TTL meters. There's TTL, ATTL and ETTL. ETTL is what is often just called TTL these days as that's what's on most equipment. I'm not 100% sure what method of TTL is being used on the XPLOR, but it would matter, because how TTL and ETTL work would make a difference with how your results are and how you use it to achieve what you want. ETTL throws out a pre-measured amount of light and uses that to meter for flash output. TTL doesn't do that, TTL just uses what your camera metered. Either way, it matters because of what is being measured for the flash output. With ETTL, if there's a bright source of light behind your subjects, it's likely that you will see under-exposure--the same way you would expect the camera meter to under-expose someone standing in front of the sun when using evaluative metering methods. This is where FEV comes in, you can dial in compensation to tell ETTL what to do. So if your subjects are back-lit, you may need +FEV. If they're not, and you just want fill light, dial in some negative -FEV. -FEV is how you adjust ETTL for fill anyways, if you want spontaneous shooting.

As for what you're talking about, it sounds like you want to use HSS to put fill light on your subjects, at F2.8 in day light. Unfortunately you cannot meter this. Nor can you dial it in as an FEV amount like ETTL.

The reliable way to get fill light from your flash, no matter what is going on in your composition, is to use a light meter and not let the meter of your camera or flash system think for you. You end up with results that you didn't want, as you put it. But, unfortunately, ETTL and HSS are not friends with light meters. Light meters are for manual.

That said, fill light is generally 2/3rds ro 1 stop below normal exposure, to get that blanket of soft, filling light that doesn't look like flash. To get that result consistently without chimping takes a light meter. To do it with HSS takes chimping basically or using known values at known distances and keeping a chart handy (ie, knowing the output of your HSS, outputting F2.2 light while using F2.8 aperture on your camera, at a distance of say, 4 feet or something). You can do some tests and make your own chart like that knowing what power value at what distance in what modifier gives what light output, so that you can use HSS without chimping as much, but this takes dedication and is very specific to the gear & distance.

Sigh, this is why I went back to ND filter & light meter, to do shallow depth of field day light strobing. :D

Very best,


My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
huntersdad
Goldmember
4,655 posts
Likes: 232
Joined Nov 2008
     
May 25, 2016 07:37 |  #3

MalVeauX wrote in post #18018012 (external link)
Sigh, this is why I went back to ND filter & light meter, to do shallow depth of field day light strobing. :D

Very best,

Un/Like Max, I don't use a light meter, but have gone back to a variable ND filter for flashing during the day. I get the concept of HSS, understand it's use, but find it hard to manage when working with a client. It never seems to turn out the way I want it and screwing with it and getting frustrated doesn't send a professional signal.

That said, I don't think you need a light meter to use flash. Is it quicker? Probably. More accurate? Probably. Your meter should be a starting point, but you have to understand what it is telling you and how to adjust it. Dead center doesn't mean properly exposed.


Facebook (external link)

http://WWW.BLENDEDLIGH​TPHOTOGRAPHY.COM (external link)
1DxII x 2 / 24-70L II / 70-200L II / 85 1.4L / 300 II / AD600Pros

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Colin ­ Glover
Goldmember
1,374 posts
Gallery: 17 photos
Likes: 129
Joined Aug 2012
Location: Southport nr Liverpool United Kingdom
     
May 25, 2016 12:11 |  #4

Great looking shots. Did you have to pull shadows up much? The look is perfect.


Canon EOS 70D, Canon EOS 600D, EF-S 18-55 ii, EF 55-200 USM ii, EF-S 75-300 iii, Tamron 28-80, Sigma 70-210. Pentax 50mm, Pentax 135mm, EF-S 55-250, Raynox Macro adapter, Neewer filters (CPL, UV, FLD & ND4), Fuji HS20 EXR (30X zoom ) & cable release, Yongnuo 560 iii & Luxon 9800A manual flashguns for the Fuji, Hama Star 63 tripod, Hongdek RC-6 remote control, Velbon DF 40 www.point-n-shoot.co.uk website.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
Post edited over 3 years ago by digitalduck.
     
May 25, 2016 12:30 as a reply to  @ Colin Glover's post |  #5

MalVeaux, once again thank you for the awesome feedback, much appreciated 

Yeah I was trying to achieve 2.8 and still be able to use HSS for fill, and didn’t like the results as much ,simply because it was harder to lighten up enough to make it “bright and airy” without blowing things out, however, I would love to use my Sekonic 358l I would think it would give me the proper exposure and wouldn’t know what im trying to achieve…but exposre might be on spot enough that I can still bring up exposure enough, etc. However, whne you are referring to using the meter, are you talking about balancing ambient with exposure (determine background and then meter flash and adjust flash to math background? That way I may not have my 2.8 however then)

I ultimately, outside, with the Xplor, wanted to just add some fill and cathlights, but that would require me to focus more on internal meter.. because I was looking at SS and judging by exposure, knowing what I needed to do…

Huntersdad, I agree completely on the internal meter, yeah I almost practically forgot about it..

Colin, thank you :) didn't pull shadows up too much, that was the look I was going for, just didnt achieve it every time.. :(




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Amadauss
Senior Member
Avatar
682 posts
Gallery: 5 photos
Likes: 134
Joined Nov 2010
Location: Lehigh Valley Pa
Post edited over 3 years ago by Amadauss.
     
May 25, 2016 21:04 |  #6

I like your photos. Only thing I might do is clean up his face a little bit.


1-1Dx II 1-5D Mark 4, 3-5D Mark III, 5D Mark II, 2-7D's, 70D, canon 70-200 2.8 L IS II, 24-70L II, 85 1.8, 85 1.2, 50mm, 135 mm F2 L, 17-40 , 24-105, Sigma 35 Art and 18-35 1.8, 600 EX's, Elinchrom RX and Phottix 500 strobes

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
     
May 27, 2016 14:11 as a reply to  @ Amadauss's post |  #7

Gusy, so I have a session tomorrow afternoon at the same location... its a 1yr old and will be easy...but I wanted to ask you a couple Q's based on some new techniques...

1. So I love the Xplor AND the handheld unit... really makes it feel like a Prophoto B2... however.. when mentioning about using a lightmeter ,(which I completely agree) but are you referring to metering the background with in camera meter then metering the flash and adjusting power to suit the aperture….OR just metering the subject with the meter and rolling with that…your aperture won’t be what you want, say 2.8 but the exposure will be “correct”

2. OR sine im looking for that light and airy look….WITH some fill should I just go with 2.8 and a higher iso and then hoping that my SS doesn’t go into HSS… it feels like I need HSS because a higher ISO and 2.8 will blow out the image if shot at 1/185 or 6d’s Max SS…..

3. I use my meter indoors and sometimes out, however, now that I have the new equipment, I would like to get more into using it and not chimping… however the meter will give me its preferred exposure and not the light/airy look… what would you suggest? Thank you!




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
rebelsimon
Goldmember
Avatar
1,136 posts
Likes: 1991
Joined Nov 2013
Location: Whitby, ON
     
May 30, 2016 10:00 |  #8

You're making it more complicated than it needs to be, IMO.

Step one: expose for the ambient light you want. Put the camera in manual, and tweak it until you've got the background looking the way you want it. Chimping, followed by a peek at the histogram, is how I do it. You can also use your cameras meter, or a light meter, if those make you feel more comfortable.

Step two: add light to taste. Turn on the flash/strobe and add light until it looks the way you want. Again, chimping and the histogram are your friend.


Everything else is just muddying the waters at this point. Try to keep it simple, change your settings one at a time, and before long it becomes very intuitive.


Toronto area photographer http://www.SimonMellic​kPhotography.com (external link)
Cameras:5Diii (x2), 70D
Lenses:Rokinon 14mm f2.8, Voightlander 20mm f3.5, Canon 24-70 f2.8ii, Tamron 35mm f1.8 VC, Canon 50mm STM, Tamron 90mm 2.8 VC, Canon 135mm f2
Lights: AD600, AD200 (x2), V850 (x4)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

2,674 views & 6 likes for this thread
First E-session and some questions
FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Weddings & Other Family Events Talk 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is dominiquehessert
952 guests, 276 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.