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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 27 Apr 2016 (Wednesday) 14:46
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1D X Mark II Owners Unite! Discuss & Post Photos

 
focusfirm
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May 29, 2016 07:49 as a reply to  @ post 18022525 |  #1036

Yes, the RAW file looks the same in LightRoom, Capture One Pro and Canon Professional. And there is never an error opening the file. It is as if that nasty rectangle was actually something I photographed! But we know it is not the sensor because the JPG preview in the raw file looks fine, and the same file written in parallel to my CF card is perfectly fine.

I agree that it is ALWAYS a problem with a rectangle in the lower right corner is odd. I think it likely points to a firmware/drive issue as opposed to a CARD issue. But I do not know for sure.

Here is my latest messed up file, which came after a FULL FORMAT with the SanDisk tool.


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mrmaint
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May 29, 2016 08:39 |  #1037

focusfirm wrote in post #18022532 (external link)
Yes, the RAW file looks the same in LightRoom, Capture One Pro and Canon Professional. And there is never an error opening the file. It is as if that nasty rectangle was actually something I photographed! But we know it is not the sensor because the JPG preview in the raw file looks fine, and the same file written in parallel to my CF card is perfectly fine.

I agree that it is ALWAYS a problem with a rectangle in the lower right corner is odd. I think it likely points to a firmware/drive issue as opposed to a CARD issue. But I do not know for sure.

Here is my latest messed up file, which came after a FULL FORMAT with the SanDisk tool.

thumbnail
Hosted photo: posted by focusfirm in
./showthread.php?p=180​22532&i=i128389853
forum: Canon EOS Digital Cameras


John

Have you tried plugging the reader in a different USB port. Maybe the driver got corrupted during installation.


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smythie
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May 29, 2016 08:48 |  #1038

Someone mentioned earlier that when going into the RAW processing option for the raw file on the CFast card in camera the rectangle was there


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umphotography
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May 29, 2016 09:15 |  #1039

I was getting ready to go home and had my OCF set up put away (from last nights wedding) and I saw this area. So I took the couple in for a couple more shots. The -3 EV works exceptionally well. I can say w/o hesitation that the 5D3 would not get this shot because I tried with both cameras. It was pitch black out there in the courtyard.

The plexiglass wall was back lit spot lights from the back side and the Couple was in almost pitch Black light. We did a silhouette and I decided to turn on the flash and see if I could get it to lock.

It locked instantly and I did not have focus assist on with the flash

Very close to a straight off file. I cloned off a little spot on the black metal bars from the flash

I also tried this in ETTL and could not get a proper balance. It kept blowing out the couple...so I want to manual flash at 1/128 and backed up and that got some light on the couple. Flash was in a bracket


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umphotography
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May 29, 2016 09:18 |  #1040

Also

A1 servo. Wedding guys. Just put the camera in A1 Servo and leave it for the processionals and exits. I have about 80 shots and the processionals and exits with the bridal party and parents

ZERO MISSED SHOTS- EVERY SINGLE SHOT HIT

TOTALLY BLOWN AWAY

Straight off camera file


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focusfirm
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May 29, 2016 09:19 |  #1041

smythie wrote in post #18022577 (external link)
Someone mentioned earlier that when going into the RAW processing option for the raw file on the CFast card in camera the rectangle was there

That is correct. You can see the corruption in-camera on the LCD screen just by going into RAW processing. You do not have to do anything - just go into that option as if you were going to make adjustments and a JPG. As soon as you go into that screen, the corruption is visible.




  
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umphotography
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May 29, 2016 09:29 |  #1042

Here is the processional

Straight off file with a crop only

Shot the entire ceremony in Servo

ZERO MISSED FOCUS SHOTS

Best AF I have ever used By a Mile


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HKFEVER
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May 29, 2016 09:48 as a reply to  @ post 18022525 |  #1043

I have couple files that can't be open (with the original 128 card came with the camera).
I have files that were OK at the first place, but suddenly turn bad when I try to edit them again (in both cards).
I have one corrupted raw not just happened in the low right corner.
The original 128 card came with the camera has more corrupted raw.
The second 128 card that I bought afterward, so far only has one file has problem.




  
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ross.thomas
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May 29, 2016 09:57 |  #1044

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #18022477 (external link)
Two Things:

1) Just want to make sure yo found the Menu item in the 5th Menu Tab, 1st Page, Bottom item to enable or disable the Active AF Point to be used for Spot Metering

2) It works on my camera, I have actively tested it out - but I'm going to assuming to understand that Spot Metering is still Metering to a certain % Grey so that if the thing you are metering isn't that %grey, which it rarely is, you are going to get a result which the camera wants to get but isn't necessarily what you want, unless you are good at using EC to know the correct correction. I'm usually pretty good at certain corrections such a bright whites or dark blacks where I know for the whites I add as much as 1 & 1/3rd stops (i.e. meter the white wedding dress and then set to 1 1/3rd stops higher - or the opposite when metering for blacks.

Yes I found the menu item. What's funny is I though the same thing about it just being sensitive on he metering. To test it I put the focus point in the center, and metered on something. Then I move the focus point away, but made sure that the point was focusing on the exact same place as when it was in the center. And it still metered different.


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wallstreetoneil
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May 29, 2016 10:15 |  #1045

ross.thomas wrote in post #18022622 (external link)
Yes I found the menu item. What's funny is I though the same thing about it just being sensitive on he metering. To test it I put the focus point in the center, and metered on something. Then I move the focus point away, but made sure that the point was focusing on the exact same place as when it was in the center. And it still metered different.


I just re-tested and can confirm in certain situations that you are correct. I think the answer is that given the right situation, when you use Center Point, you are not actually using Center Point, you are using the entire area inside the circle whereas when you use a single AF point, it appears the single AF pt is SMALLER than the Center CIRCLE which isn't a Center AF pt it is the Center Circle


Hockey and wedding photographer. Favourite camera / lens combos: a 1DX II with a Tamron 45 1.8 VC, an A7Rii with a Canon 24-70F2.8L II, and a 5DSR with a Tamron 85 1.8 VC. Every lens I own I strongly recommend [Canon (35Lii, 100L Macro, 24-70F2.8ii, 70-200F2.8ii, 100-400Lii), Tamron (45 1.8, 85 1.8), Sigma 24-105]. If there are better lenses out there let me know because I haven't found them.

  
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jwcdds
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May 29, 2016 11:00 |  #1046

focusfirm wrote in post #18022509 (external link)
Actually, I bought additional CFast cards from B&H - 128GB ones. That is where I am seeing the issue. I don't use the little one that came with it much. I agree that bad cards are a possibility, but in 12 years of using SanDisk Extreme Pro products, I have never had an issue. But this is indeed a new technology. The question becomes how do we determine a card is bad? If I can full-format it without error and have some shoots go without error and not have a problem mounting or copying files from the card, what is the likelihood then that it is the card? I am very open to this possibility, but how do I PROVE the card is bad when I get no actual errors using it other than the some of the RAW files having that funny rectangle? And isn't it peculiar the consistency of it always being a rectangle of garbage in the lower right hand corner and nothing else? Maybe someone familiar with the internals of the RAW file can comment on that.

Thanks!

Short of shooting a bunch (to generate your 1-5% write fail rate), it's hard to say. I would recommending shooting the next 1000 or so photos with the 64gb supplied in the premium kit (also writing to your CF as back-up just so you don't screw up an important photo) and see if the problem shows up on the 64gb CFast. If not, then the 128gb is bad.

I've been shooting with CF cards since 2004. I've only ever encountered 1 bad card, but they do happen as well. The card formatted fine and didn't show any errors. The only reason I know it would be a bad card is when a very few images kept being written wonky/funny on it.

If it turns out to be the CFast card, I think you can then make a case with B&H customer service to let them know they sold you a bad card and want an exchange. B&H customer service (via phone) is usually very accommodating.

HOWEVER, if the 64gb also gives you these messed up RAWs, then in your situation, it might be the camera's internal CFast slot that's the issue.


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May 29, 2016 11:19 |  #1047

jwcdds wrote in post #18022359 (external link)
Well. Here's the thing. You're only working with one CFast card right now. Have you tried testing this out with another CFast card? It's possible that it may be a writing issue with the camera itself. It's just as likely that Canon was supplied a crapload of low-quality CFast card from Sandisk. ..

Trouble with this theory is that when we use the same card to have RAW files wqritten to it from a computer, at higher speeds often mind you, the corruption does not occur. thus far we can only get the corrupt RAW file IN Camera.

Not saying this is 100%, but it lends credence strongly to the idea that the problem is somewhere within the marriage between these cards and the EOS 1Dx MkII, as opposed to just "bad cards".


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May 29, 2016 11:34 as a reply to  @ CyberDyneSystems's post |  #1048

I did have some files are OK at the first place. But show up bad after couple hours or days in different Mac. Using same Sandisk reader.




  
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umphotography
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May 29, 2016 11:41 |  #1049

On a Negative Note

The new body has to go in for a repairvmad

The upper toggle button is broke. will not adjust to the right. I know its the switch because I can completely control from the lower toggle switch. So, Kind of bummed about that


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Scott_online
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May 29, 2016 12:11 |  #1050

umphotography wrote in post #18022721 (external link)
On a Negative Note

The new body has to go in for a repairvmad

The upper toggle button is broke. will not adjust to the right. I know its the switch because I can completely control from the lower toggle switch. So, Kind of bummed about that

Is it completely fubar? The joystick on my 1DX1 required a specific technique to work reliably - you had to apply even pressure on the top of the joystick with your thumb and then 'slide' it left and right. If you attempted to pivot it by applying pressure to the side of the joystick then it sometimes didn't work.

I don't know about the US, but in the UK you would be entitled to a replacement rather than a repair.


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