Sony A7x lounge

Here is my sharpening work flow:

Pre-Sharpening in Lightroom
1. Under the Detail panel in the Develop module, I set the sharpening values to this:
2. Amount is usually set to around 50
3. Radius is set low to 0.6 or .07
4. Detail is at 50
5. For portraits, I have the Masking set to 60 and for landscapes around 30.

IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …/i-r6vvd9Q-L.jpg&lb=1&s=A

IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …/i-dtmBZDQ-S.jpg&lb=1&s=A

digital_AM wrote in post #18037150
Here is my sharpening work flow:

Pre-Sharpening in Lightroom
1. Under the Detail panel in the Develop module, I set the sharpening values to this:
2. Amount is usually set to around 50
3. Radius is set low to 0.6 or .07
4. Detail is at 50
5. For portraits, I have the Masking set to 60 and for landscapes around 30.

IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …/i-r6vvd9Q-L.jpg&lb=1&s=A on Smugmug


Sharpening in PS CC
1. I sharpen my photos after I apply my tone, color, and creative edits. I use a technique using frequency separation.
2. Duplicate your layer twice
3. Rename the top layer as "High"
4. Rename the layer underneath as "Low"
5. Turn off the "High" layer to hide it
6. With the "Low" layer selected, select Filter from the menu
7. Select Blur and then Gaussian Blur
8. Set the Radius to 1.5
9. Unhide the "High" layer and select it
10. In the top menu, select Image, then Apply Image
11. Select Add as the blending type
12. Ensure Scale is set to 2
13. Ensure Invert is checked off
14. Under the Layer drop down, select your Low layer
15. Click Ok

IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …/i-dtmBZDQ-S.jpg&lb=1&s=A on Smugmug


16. Back in your Layers panel, change the blend mode to Linear Light. You can select Vivid Light if you want a bit more subtle effect.
17. Group your High and Low layers
18. You can delete the Low layer
19. The image is now ready for export

Note: If you want to use Soft Light as the blend mode, you can change the Radius in Step 8 to 10.

Export Sharpening
1. After my sharpening is done and I want to export the image to share, I use Tony Kuyper's TKActionsv4 panel. This panel runs an action to apply final sharpening and resizing to the image.
2. Under Actions, select the image final dimensions. I set mine to 2048px since that's typically the maximum size allowed on 500px and Flickr.
3. Select Horizontal or Vertical depending on the longest dimension of the image.
4. Click Ok on the actions panel
5. Click Save for Web on the actions panel
6. Click Save to save and rename the image to your export folder
7. The image is now ready to share and has been sharpened for 2048px

Wow, my technique is all wrong...there are much fewer steps. Thanks for sharing Alfredo. I"ll have to check out your methods for using frequency separation.

xpfloyd wrote in post #18037039
For those that carry 2 bodies I need some advice please -

Ok first of ill explain my current setup. I like to carry as small a bag as possible (I use the thinktank retrospective 5 and the F stop Shibatta bags). I wear them diagonally across my chest so the the bag is at my side. I carry 1 body and 3 lenses for general walkabout. I use a wrist strap on my camera as I already have the bag over my shoulder.

Now I have purchased the A6300 and want to carry that along with the A7RII and 3 lenses. Im thinking I can have either a 35 or 50 equivalent on the A6300 and then a wide or tele on the A7RII and swap between the bodies as needed.

My only problem is how do I carry all this? I want to avoid having to buy a bigger bag as that sort of defeats one of the main reasons I went mirrorless. I also want to avoid things like the cotton carrier shirts as thats a bit paparazzi for my liking.

How do you guys do it? Do you have a camera on a strap around your neck at the same time as a bag? Do you wear 2 cameras around your neck at same time? Do you just get a big enough bag to fit it all in?

Thanks

EDIT - I like this - http://holdfastgear.co​m …ker-water-buffalo-leather - But I dont think I could pull that look off, its more something a wedding photog would wear in my eyes

I've been dragging the RX1RII along with the a7rII with a couple of lenses around disney for the past couple of days. The RX1RII is really small, but still a second body to contend with. I have two Peak Design capture clips that I wear on my belt throughout the day and wore one or two bodies on the clips depending on my needs at the time. The good thing about the capture clip is that it means you can carry a bag and have one or two cameras quickly accessible without wrapping your body up in straps. This has been key to me since I've been using the RX1RII in combination with either the 85GM or Loxia 21 on my a7rII. I preferred this over using the 24-70 F4 I rented, so it was nice to be able to switch cameras quickly when I needed a different focal length.

vinmunoz wrote in post #18037071
Revelation. This was the SOOC. I used my flashpoint monolight strobe but it didn't fire in this particular shot. I had a shot which the strobe fires but I didn't like it. so i tried to salvage this.

Can Canon do this? Dynamic Range at its best.

Hosted photo: posted by vinmunoz in
./showthread.php?p=180​37071&i=i113532352
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

It seems that the new 1DXII sensor now has the DR to pull this off. But yes having lots of DR at your disposal is very useful for outdoor portraiture. I try to avoid using off camera lights if I don't have to as messing with lights breaks up the flow of shooting.

navydoc wrote in post #18037162
Wow, my technique is all wrong...there are much fewer steps. Thanks for sharing Alfredo. I"ll have to check out your methods for using frequency separation.

No problem Gene. I hope you like the results. Yes there are more steps involved but the process goes quickly once you edit a few this way. Your method also works well.

Carlo, I like your setup for handling two camera bodies. I carry my a7RII and a6000 each with a lens attached in my messenger bag. It would be nice having the capture plate so I don't have to keep storing my camera back in the bag when I'm out with my family.

mystik610 wrote in post #18037171
I've been dragging the RX1RII along with the a7rII with a couple of lenses around disney for the past couple of days. The RX1RII is really small, but still a second body to contend with. I have two Peak Design capture clips that I wear on my belt throughout the day and wore one or two bodies on the clips depending on my needs at the time. The good thing about the capture clip is that it means you can carry a bag and have one or two cameras quickly accessible without wrapping your body up in straps. This has been key to me since I've been using the RX1RII in combination with either the 85GM or Loxia 21 on my a7rII. I preferred this over using the 24-70 F4 I rented, so it was nice to be able to switch cameras quickly when I needed a different focal length.

This is intriguing. Didn't even know something like this existed. Might have to give this a try as I find myself fumbling with my camera body a lot, specially when wanting to reach into my bag to get a lens for swapping.

digital_AM wrote in post #18037150
Here is my sharpening work flow:

Pre-Sharpening in Lightroom
1. Under the Detail panel in the Develop module, I set the sharpening values to this:
2. Amount is usually set to around 50
3. Radius is set low to 0.6 or .07
4. Detail is at 50
5. For portraits, I have the Masking set to 60 and for landscapes around 30.

IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …/i-r6vvd9Q-L.jpg&lb=1&s=A on Smugmug


Sharpening in PS CC
1. I sharpen my photos after I apply my tone, color, and creative edits. I use a technique using frequency separation.
2. Duplicate your layer twice
3. Rename the top layer as "High"
4. Rename the layer underneath as "Low"
5. Turn off the "High" layer to hide it
6. With the "Low" layer selected, select Filter from the menu
7. Select Blur and then Gaussian Blur
8. Set the Radius to 1.5
9. Unhide the "High" layer and select it
10. In the top menu, select Image, then Apply Image
11. Select Add as the blending type
12. Ensure Scale is set to 2
13. Ensure Invert is checked off
14. Under the Layer drop down, select your Low layer
15. Click Ok

IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …/i-dtmBZDQ-S.jpg&lb=1&s=A on Smugmug


16. Back in your Layers panel, change the blend mode to Linear Light. You can select Vivid Light if you want a bit more subtle effect.
17. Group your High and Low layers
18. You can delete the Low layer
19. The image is now ready for export

Note: If you want to use Soft Light as the blend mode, you can change the Radius in Step 8 to 10.

Export Sharpening
1. After my sharpening is done and I want to export the image to share, I use Tony Kuyper's TKActionsv4 panel. This panel runs an action to apply final sharpening and resizing to the image.
2. Under Actions, select the image final dimensions. I set mine to 2048px since that's typically the maximum size allowed on 500px and Flickr.
3. Select Horizontal or Vertical depending on the longest dimension of the image.
4. Click Ok on the actions panel
5. Click Save for Web on the actions panel
6. Click Save to save and rename the image to your export folder
7. The image is now ready to share and has been sharpened for 2048px

looks like too much work for just sharpening. you can create an action for this though.

for me i just duplicate an image. highpass to around 1 to 2 and change the blending mode to vivid light. mask when necessary.

mystik610 wrote in post #18037173
It seems that the new 1DXII sensor now has the DR to pull this off. But yes having lots of DR at your disposal is very useful for outdoor portraiture. I try to avoid using off camera lights if I don't have to as messing with lights breaks up the flow of shooting.

as a natural light shooter i agree with you. Maybe next time, i'll just balance as much as i can in camera and fix it in post. utilizing the amazing DR of this sensor.

vinmunoz wrote in post #18037202
looks like too much work for just sharpening. you can create an action for this though.

for me i just duplicate an image. highpass to around 1 to 2 and change the blending mode to vivid light. mask when necessary.

I have the pre-sharpening as a Lightroom preset. The sharpening in PS CC goes fast. It takes me less than a minute.

digital_AM wrote in post #18037210
I have the pre-sharpening as a Lightroom preset. The sharpening in PS CC goes fast. It takes me less than a minute.

yah like i said we can create an action for it. i make my own actions. including my whole workflow.

xpfloyd wrote in post #18037212

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/J3BD​9s Callum - 50-52 - 12.06.16 by xpfloyd, on Flickr

i love the skintone. very real. for me i would desat the green a bit.

vinmunoz wrote in post #18037223
i love the skintone. very real. for me i would desat the green a bit.

Thanks Vinz, skintones via "camera portrait" profile in LR. Ill have a look at the greens

86F today here in the shade, wish I could go back two weeks ago when I was here-

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/HVrk​eY