-= 7D2 owners unite! Discuss and post photos!

Pondrader wrote in post #18079207
Thats a good question, the one thing I would like in my camera is a way to bios my iso, if I could adjust the iso to not be so radical in its movements in some situations shooting wildlife I would not put 20 mile's on the top wheel in shadow and bright sunlight situation's,...Like shooting fox kit's in the shade this spring, turning on that wheel the entire time because the camera had way to big a swing. There's a lot of brain stuff going on during shooting and PP after the fact to get something like this shot. It looks a gentle light but life is not that kind to us lol

Gallery photo (hosted):
posted by Pondrader originally in forum: Wildlife

Jeff,
I insert a couple of cents worth of suggestions.
In the example frame with high DR, we get 2 choices, annually expose, or semiautomatic using on of the AE modes.

If your AE was over exposing, first thing to do is double check that it wasn't due forgetting that you set a crazy +EC. (I doubt it.)

So leaving auto ISO (a semi manual mode as it relies on AE) requires better choice and manual intervention of AE. I find Evaluative AE unreliable due to its averaging algorithms. (I don't recall if it let's us choose between center weighted averaging, or if that is only for flash AE). Anyway, in a shot with high DR, as the photog, you'll get best results by using Partial (15% of frame area, so about center 40% of height and 40%of width) or Spot AE (3% pf Fram area, so about center 17% of height and width), and choosing what part of the frame you want it to measure. If you dont want to meter the center portion of the frame due to composition desires, you'll need to use AELOCK using the center, and then recompose. Personally, I have a lot of luck using Partial AE along with EC as necessary. Exceptions needing ae lock infrequently occur. In your example, I would have tried partial as framed to start. It might have required a little -EC in camera or in post. I would expect Evaluative to have created over exposed image due to the quantity of darkness cross the frame (creating a low average). I know it is supposed to be biased by active af point, but I don't find it too successful.

I just created this new thread.
7dii all pts f8 is only a firmware upgrade away!
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1464487

If only it was that easy, Yes today I used Partial on the birds as as you say it tends to help with burnt whites. But what I'm getting at is if left to the camera in extreme lighting like this the camera will always come away with lights that are unrecoverable, but if we could narrow the value of the iso chosen by the camera we might be able to recover in post more easily than seeing it in ones head as its happening and of course lowering of shutter is a killer as it leaves us with motion blur. You Guy have the best handle on the lingo and specific's, I only rely on what I see and do in the field. I have shoot these conditions for several Terabit of fox kits over years. Nothing is close to manual mode while watching the light meter and running the shutter up and down while calculating the balance of way to bright and way to dark against the iso and shutter you choose in under 1/2 a millisecond lol. The camera in any mode I know of will leave you wishing you did it manually at the end of the day. My thoughts were to slow the iso and limit its swing is all.. its is something I have thought of but have no real basis for my thinking. but if I could get the camera to choose 1000 instead of 2500 sometimes ??

Anyway my wish is to be able to narrow the iso so it ups more slowly and does more like what I do manually

Pondrader wrote in post #18079332
If only it was that easy, Yes today I used Partial on the birds as as you say it tends to help with burnt whites. But what I'm getting at is if left to the camera in extreme lighting like this the camera will always come away with lights that are unrecoverable, but if we could narrow the value of the iso chosen by the camera we might be able to recover in post more easily than seeing it in ones head as its happening and of course lowering of shutter is a killer as it leaves us with motion blur. You Guy have the best handle on the lingo and specific's, I only rely on what I see and do in the field. I have shoot these conditions for several Terabit of fox kits over years. Nothing is close to manual mode while watching the light meter and running the shutter up and down while calculating the balance of way to bright and way to dark against the iso and shutter you choose in under 1/2 a millisecond lol. The camera in any mode I know of will leave you wishing you did it manually at the end of the day. My thoughts were to slow the iso and limit its swing is all.. its is something I have thought of but have no real basis for my thinking. but if I could get the camera to choose 1000 instead of 2500 sometimes ??

I have ISO changeable with the set button and wheel in manual so I can leave shutter and aperture alone and very quickly adjust iso accordingly.

Nice job Will, Wicked light

Yes that may work but your still hammering on that wheel, and you know I lost a good camera to that last year. It was a wish kinda question from Evelakes and that is mine lol just to have iso change up more slowly at times so in manual mode we could get it closer to what we would choose were as the camera will go way to far even in spot or partial metering. just for those situations

Little Egret at the mouth of the Adyar River in Chennai, India.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Kntu​J4

Today I officially became a member of the 7D2 club . I had the 80D for a week but exchanged it today with the 7D2. I went out today for a short test and from what I've seen in the camera LCD, I already liked what I'm seeing.

Lupo-Lobo wrote in post #18078761
Love the Green Heron - nice work!

Thank you always Lupo.

Pondrader wrote in post #18079332
If only it was that easy, Yes today I used Partial on the birds as as you say it tends to help with burnt whites. But what I'm getting at is if left to the camera in extreme lighting like this the camera will always come away with lights that are unrecoverable, but if we could narrow the value of the iso chosen by the camera we might be able to recover in post more easily than seeing it in ones head as its happening and of course lowering of shutter is a killer as it leaves us with motion blur. You Guy have the best handle on the lingo and specific's, I only rely on what I see and do in the field. I have shoot these conditions for several Terabit of fox kits over years. Nothing is close to manual mode while watching the light meter and running the shutter up and down while calculating the balance of way to bright and way to dark against the iso and shutter you choose in under 1/2 a millisecond lol. The camera in any mode I know of will leave you wishing you did it manually at the end of the day. My thoughts were to slow the iso and limit its swing is all.. its is something I have thought of but have no real basis for my thinking. but if I could get the camera to choose 1000 instead of 2500 sometimes ??

Anyway my wish is to be able to narrow the iso so it ups more slowly and does more like what I do manually

It sounds like you want to limit the amount the camera wants to over expose by limiting how high of and iso it will use. This comes back to controlling auto exposure i was mentioning. Which mode were you in for the kits example you posted? If Evauative, we know it not reliable, if it was partial, it reacted in similar fashion due to the over representation of darks. I think the only way you are going to get proper exposure using a semiautomatic mode is to recognize lighting that will confuse the ae. Place the partial ae region over move normal light distribution, lock AE, recompose and shoot? Limiting max iso won't work as you would only set it after recognizing the framed subject was confusing the AE; so you could use EC too at that point.

I have never been comfortable using auto ISO on either the 7D2 or now on the 1D IV. I shoot in AV and set the ISO to get the shutter speed I need at a particular aperture. I know how to use manual but find, for me, AV is faster.