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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 24 Aug 2016 (Wednesday) 21:29
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Canon 5D Mark IV -- Time to Discuss!

 
PJJ205
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Sep 30, 2016 12:01 |  #3466

Has anyone tried to link a pocketwizard up to their 5DIV yet? Had mine trip out and go back and forth between 1/200 and 1/640 nonstop until I turned the TT5 off. I think I saw that 1DXII users are still waiting for an update so I expect the 5DIV to take even longer. Looking forward to hooking my strobes up to this thing and trying some portraits!




  
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mike_d
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Sep 30, 2016 12:03 |  #3467

PJJ205 wrote in post #18144612 (external link)
Has anyone tried to link a pocketwizard up to their 5DIV yet? Had mine trip out and go back and forth between 1/200 and 1/640 nonstop until I turned the TT5 off. I think I saw that 1DXII users are still waiting for an update so I expect the 5DIV to take even longer. Looking forward to hooking my strobes up to this thing and trying some portraits!

The 5D4 adds some radios that the 5D line has never had before. Have you tried disabling Wifi, NFC, and GPS?




  
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Neilyb
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Sep 30, 2016 12:39 |  #3468

sploo wrote in post #18144534 (external link)
I believe it's usually a better comparison to upsample the smaller image rather than downsampling the larger - but still, it's quite an impressive result for the 5D4 to be that close!

I find that method unfair, as you are creating pixels which did not exist. Having a higer MP body that can look nearly as good or as good as a top end lower MP body, is in my mind useful. I can make the most of the resolution when the light allows or re-sample when not. Win, win. But the 5D is losing DR over the 1D bodies.


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PJJ205
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Sep 30, 2016 12:39 as a reply to  @ mike_d's post |  #3469

I never activated any of the three. Going to hook my pocketwizards up to my computer and reset everything then see what happens after that. I was figuring that it was just a firmware issue, but I'll have to check it out over the weekend.




  
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Trvlr323
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Sep 30, 2016 12:50 |  #3470

mike_d wrote in post #18143718 (external link)
I think the issue comes when both a lens and a body are in-spec, but in opposite directions. It reminds me of the floppy disc days where you'd occasionally come across two drives that couldn't read each other's discs, but they were readable in other drives. Same deal with them being at the edge of the spec but in opposite directions.

Micro adjustment is obviously a bigger issue with high density sensors and larger apertures where there's much less margin for error.


Nethawked wrote in post #18143738 (external link)
Your general consideration is wrong :)

Read this:

http://learn.usa.canon​.com …oadjustment_art​icle.shtml (external link)

gjl711 wrote in post #18143753 (external link)
If you look at the results in some of the early FoCal threads, it turns out that nearly every lens benefits from some level of MFA. My personal experience is that I have only one lens that is spot on at zero. Most are in the +/-1 to +/-5 range bot a couple are more.

It really comes down to how tolerant you are to slight imperfections I suppose. A +/-5 is hardly noticeable unless you look close but a +/-10 can turn a what was once called a soft lens into a razor sharp beast.

Hey folks. Wanted to thank you all again for the info on MFA. I familiarized myself with the dot tune method yesterday evening and went to work when I got some good light today. I guess the reason I never considered it necessary is that my tuning was pretty much a wash. The 24-105, 85 1.8, 85 1.4 and the 70-200 gave equal + - useful AF confirmations on both the 5D3 and 5D4 so no MFA necessary. The only lenses that indicated slight variations on both bodies were the 17-40 and the 40 2.8 which each required a + 2 on the 5D4 and +1 +2 respectively on the 5D3. I probably never noticed anything on the 17-40 because it's always stopped down for landscapes. I haven't touched the 7D2 yet which is where I use my longer lenses but based on the results I doubt there is anything to be concerned about. This was a great learning experience so thanks again.


Sometimes not taking a photograph can be as problematic as taking one. - Alex Webb

  
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flashpoint99
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Sep 30, 2016 13:41 |  #3471

PJJ205 wrote in post #18144612 (external link)
Has anyone tried to link a pocketwizard up to their 5DIV yet? Had mine trip out and go back and forth between 1/200 and 1/640 nonstop until I turned the TT5 off. I think I saw that 1DXII users are still waiting for an update so I expect the 5DIV to take even longer. Looking forward to hooking my strobes up to this thing and trying some portraits!

wondeful. another issue to worry about




  
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Trvlr323
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Sep 30, 2016 13:49 |  #3472

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #18142715 (external link)
Trouble in Paradise:

2nd is physical construction oddity:
As I was shooting, I became aware that a piece of my brand new camera was flopping around lose. I though at first that the rubber grip had just randomly started to peal off, but under closer inspection, it had nothing to do with pealing at all. The move of the battery door further towards center vs. 7D2/5D3 has resulted in no room for the housing to actually wrap fully around the battery opening. A small section of what should be magnesium frame, is now nothing at all, open space. This space is filled by a piece of the rubber grip, supported by only 3 sides of metal frame. The 4th side of rubber is exposed, and easily pried out of place, leaving the battery chamber open to the elements.

Has anyone else had any issue with this? I noticed it open several times yesterday while shooting and like Jake I'm kind of concerned about what would happen in inclement weather conditions. It seems like it is prime for water infiltration during rain or snow.


Sometimes not taking a photograph can be as problematic as taking one. - Alex Webb

  
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sploo
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Post edited over 3 years ago by sploo.
     
Sep 30, 2016 15:13 |  #3473

Neilyb wrote in post #18144637 (external link)
I find that method unfair, as you are creating pixels which did not exist. Having a higer MP body that can look nearly as good or as good as a top end lower MP body, is in my mind useful. I can make the most of the resolution when the light allows or re-sample when not. Win, win. But the 5D is losing DR over the 1D bodies.

My understanding is that downsampling the higher res file can produce misleading results. If you think about doing a print, it's highly likely that the printer itself has an ability to generate dots at a higher resolution than the pixel resolution of the image - as such, it's effectively "creating pixels" (ok dots) when you print.

In an earlier post on this thread John was talking about contrast between pixels; so whilst upsampling a low res image to a higher resolution will reduce the pixel-to-pixel contrast; the actual contrast from one point to another (in terms of linear distance) is preserved - and using that to normalise two different resolution images against one another is the "right" way of doing it. If you downsample the high res file you risk losing detail.

I'm struggling to think of a better way to explain it tonight, and I don't think what I've written above is that great...

EDIT: By linear distance, what I mean is that if I have two identical shots from two cameras with different resolutions, then if I upsample the lower res image to display it at exactly the same size as the high res image, the distance between any two objects (and the pixels of those objects in the scene) are the same. I have interpolated pixels to do that, but that hasn't damaged the image. If I downsample the higher res image in order to match the smaller image, I may well have damaged/lost fine detail.


Camera, some lenses, too little time, too little talent

  
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gabebalazs
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Post edited over 3 years ago by gabebalazs.
     
Sep 30, 2016 15:23 |  #3474

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #18142715 (external link)
Trouble in Paradise:


2nd is physical construction oddity:
As I was shooting, I became aware that a piece of my brand new camera was flopping around lose. I though at first that the rubber grip had just randomly started to peal off, but under closer inspection, it had nothing to do with pealing at all. The move of the battery door further towards center vs. 7D2/5D3 has resulted in no room for the housing to actually wrap fully around the battery opening. A small section of what should be magnesium frame, is now nothing at all, open space. This space is filled by a piece of the rubber grip, supported by only 3 sides of metal frame. The 4th side of rubber is exposed, and easily pried out of place, leaving the battery chamber open to the elements.

I'd love to show you a photo of the weirdness with the rubber grip/battery door, but here at the University of RI wifi is a hot or miss sort of thing (mostly miss) so I can't get the images from the phone to drive...

Yeah, I noticed that too. I wondered from the first moment what that little rubber flap was, and what was behind it. I thought it housed a connection or something.

However, upon inspection, the 5D3 is almost the same, very very similar, the only difference is that on the 5D3 part of the battery door extends and covers the top 15% of the hole (and opens up with the door obviously), while on the 5D4, the battery door does not have that lip and the rubber flap covers the entirety of the hole.

Mine on both cameras are pretty solid, never open, I actually had to make some effort to pry them open, so I'm not worried about it.


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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welshwizard1971
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Sep 30, 2016 15:25 |  #3475

Wow, never even noticed that before, probably wouldn't have ever noticed it.........


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PJJ205
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Sep 30, 2016 15:34 |  #3476

Easy fix for that battery hole issue... $350.00 OEM battery grip hahah.




  
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don1163
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Sep 30, 2016 16:36 |  #3477

Just ordered my 5D4...Should be delivered on tuesday. I think this will be a massive step up from my 6D and learning the AF settings is my main worry...


1DX, 500L f4, 70-200L f2.8II, 100L f2.8 macro ,16-35 f4, 1.4xIII, Metz 64-AF1

  
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Trvlr323
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Sep 30, 2016 16:38 |  #3478

don1163 wrote in post #18144819 (external link)
Just ordered my 5D4...Should be delivered on tuesday. I think this will be a massive step up from my 6D and learning the AF settings is my main worry...

Good for you. I think you're gonna love it. Does the 6D have the AF case settings, etc?


Sometimes not taking a photograph can be as problematic as taking one. - Alex Webb

  
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don1163
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Sep 30, 2016 16:44 |  #3479

nqjudo wrote in post #18144821 (external link)
Good for you. I think you're gonna love it. Does the 6D have the AF case settings, etc?

No case settings on the 6D, it is quite limited AF system.. I want the 5D4 for its better AF for wildlife and I also shoot a bit of motorcross and enduro races...


1DX, 500L f4, 70-200L f2.8II, 100L f2.8 macro ,16-35 f4, 1.4xIII, Metz 64-AF1

  
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John_T
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Sep 30, 2016 16:45 |  #3480

don1163 wrote in post #18144819 (external link)
Just ordered my 5D4...Should be delivered on tuesday. I think this will be a massive step up from my 6D and learning the AF settings is my main worry...

I have found the default Case 1 settings very good. I would just use those until you feel comfortable with the whole camera, and then, if you feel it is necessary or you want to explore, try out the other cases.


Canon : EOS R : 5DIV : 5DS R : 5DIII : 7DII : 40 2.8 : 50 1.4 : 35L : 85L : 100L IS Macro : 135L : 16-35L II : RF-24-105L IS : 70-200L II : 100-400L IS II : 1.4x & 2x TC III : 600EX-RT : 580EX : 430EX : G1XII : Markins Q10 & Q3T : Jobu Gimbal : Manfrotto Underware : etc...

  
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