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FORUMS Nikon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Nikon Cameras 
Thread started 04 Dec 2014 (Thursday) 17:14
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russ49
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Nov 26, 2016 19:15 |  #526

What separates your car from the rest....no it's not mine.

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SX10is, S90, d5100 (35mm1.8, 18-55mm, 55-200mm), d750 (28-300mm, 50mm 1.8, 35-70mm 2.8, 24-120mm f/4, 85mm 1.8G), EOS-M5 (EF-M 15-45mm, 18-150mm, EF 40mm 2.8), RX10mk4

  
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fiwi
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Dec 02, 2016 08:48 |  #527

Hello all.

Is someone able to give me an explaination on the relationship between the exposure indicator in the viewfinder and the histogram when I review a photo?. Most of the time when I take a shot the exposure indicator says that my photo is properly exposed but when I review the photo the histogram says it is under exposed. At times when I import photos into LR they may need the exposure increased anywhere up to 1.7 stops. They dont all need that much, but nearly all of them need to have the exposure bumped up to some degree.
I nearly always shoot in manual, matrix metering. Any help would be much appreciated.

Grant




  
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ptcanon3ti
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Dec 02, 2016 11:13 |  #528

fiwi wrote in post #18200954 (external link)
Hello all.

Is someone able to give me an explaination on the relationship between the exposure indicator in the viewfinder and the histogram when I review a photo?. Most of the time when I take a shot the exposure indicator says that my photo is properly exposed but when I review the photo the histogram says it is under exposed. At times when I import photos into LR they may need the exposure increased anywhere up to 1.7 stops. They dont all need that much, but nearly all of them need to have the exposure bumped up to some degree.
I nearly always shoot in manual, matrix metering. Any help would be much appreciated.

Grant


Try spot metering and get several readings from around your scene - highlights to darks - to get a more accurate idea of what is really there.


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

  
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fiwi
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Dec 02, 2016 21:05 |  #529

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #18201102 (external link)
Try spot metering and get several readings from around your scene - highlights to darks - to get a more accurate idea of what is really there.

Thanks for the reply pt.
But how does that really tell me how to meter a scene correctly?. For example, if I use live view(which I dont use very often), and I have the histogram and exposure indicator on at the same time, to get the histogram to the point where it says that the image is exposed correctly, I always have to adjust exposure so that the exposure indicator is reading over exposed. This varies slightly depending on which metering option I am using but not in a big way.
If I am shooting through the viewfinder, which I do 99% of the time, I dont have a live histogram to assess exposure so it seems that setting correct exposure with exposure indicator is just guesswork. Even if I use spot metering to meter different parts of the scene, im still going to get the same result.
As an example of what I might be shooting, yesterday I was outside walking around a new estate, sunny, not many clouds, photographing some buildings. In saying that, this happens all of the time.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Grant




  
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ptcanon3ti
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Dec 02, 2016 21:18 |  #530

fiwi wrote in post #18201602 (external link)
Thanks for the reply pt.
But how does that really tell me how to meter a scene correctly?. For example, if I use live view(which I dont use very often), and I have the histogram and exposure indicator on at the same time, to get the histogram to the point where it says that the image is exposed correctly, I always have to adjust exposure so that the exposure indicator is reading over exposed. This varies slightly depending on which metering option I am using but not in a big way.
If I am shooting through the viewfinder, which I do 99% of the time, I dont have a live histogram to assess exposure so it seems that setting correct exposure with exposure indicator is just guesswork. Even if I use spot metering to meter different parts of the scene, im still going to get the same result.
As an example of what I might be shooting, yesterday I was outside walking around a new estate, sunny, not many clouds, photographing some buildings. In saying that, this happens all of the time.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Grant

Well...hmm...I shoot differently than you, as always. lol When I shoot landscapes i use live view 99% of the time. So when I get the scene on my LCD I move the focus point/exposure metering point, around the scene to measure the brightness values...brights vs. darks. I know that I can over expose on my camera by 1.3 stops without blowing out a highlight. I also know the files from D750 can recover dark shadow detail in post processing amazingly well. Sooooo...I make an educated guess on the best exposure and shoot! :) By spot metering I know the camera is not trying to average the scene to "middle gray". Does that make sense?


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

  
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fiwi
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Dec 02, 2016 21:41 |  #531

That makes some sense, although it still seems that a bit of guess work and knowledge of your camera limits is required.




  
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fiwi
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Dec 02, 2016 21:51 |  #532

The more I use the d750 and the more I see the correlation between the exposure indicator and the histogram, the more confident i will be at using my own judgement in setting exposure without totally relying on the camera to make the call. Does that seem reasonable?. And on that note, as you pointed out, the blacks can be recovered very well with this camera. What negative points are there with using an under exposed image in LR?. In saying that, I would still prefer to get it right in camera where possible.

You have some stunning photos there PT, fantastic stuff!!.

Grant




  
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ptcanon3ti
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Post edited over 2 years ago by ptcanon3ti.
     
Dec 02, 2016 22:08 |  #533

fiwi wrote in post #18201645 (external link)
The more I use the d750 and the more I see the correlation between the exposure indicator and the histogram, the more confident i will be at using my own judgement in setting exposure without totally relying on the camera to make the call. Does that seem reasonable?. And on that note, as you pointed out, the blacks can be recovered very well with this camera. What negative points are there with using an under exposed image in LR?. In saying that, I would still prefer to get it right in camera where possible.

You have some stunning photos there PT, fantastic stuff!!.

Grant


That's totally reasonable. Knowing your camera's characteristics is vital to knowing your result. But that's exactly why I spot meter when I shoot a highly dynamic scene like a sunset. It takes almost all of the guess work out of the shot. Shooting RAW with the D750 is in my opinion the only way to shoot a highly dynamic scene, because of the ability to adjust highlights and shadow. Thank you for the kind words. :)


Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

  
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fiwi
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Dec 02, 2016 23:31 |  #534

So, if you have a landscape scene that has quite a large dynamic range, and you spot meter multiple areas of the scene, how do you actually finalise your exposure settings?. Im guessing that there can be quite a range of exposures going on there when you spot meter. How can you base your final exposure settings on a wide range of independent spot meter readings?.

I tested my camera this afternoon. . I shot outdoor images, using the exposure indicator, using all of the metering options. For each metering option the exposure indicator told me I was exposing correctly. When I checked the histogram on each image they were all under exposed. I imported these images into LR and had to adjust all of the images up between .5 and 1.3 stops.
Its still a little confusing why the exposure indicator doesnt give me a more accurate exposure reading, but I will just have to work around it.

Grant




  
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russ49
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Dec 12, 2016 20:24 |  #535

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SX10is, S90, d5100 (35mm1.8, 18-55mm, 55-200mm), d750 (28-300mm, 50mm 1.8, 35-70mm 2.8, 24-120mm f/4, 85mm 1.8G), EOS-M5 (EF-M 15-45mm, 18-150mm, EF 40mm 2.8), RX10mk4

  
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Myboostedgst
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Dec 13, 2016 22:53 |  #536

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ptcanon3ti
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Post edited over 2 years ago by ptcanon3ti.
     
Dec 14, 2016 01:12 |  #537

Sigma 24-105A


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Paul
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/petshots/ (external link)
Body - Nikon D750
Lenses - Nikon 20 f1.8 / Nikon 16-35 f4 / Sigma 105 OS Macro / Sigma 24-105 f4 Art / Tamron 70-200 2.8 Di VC / Sigma 150-600 "S"

  
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russ49
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Dec 24, 2016 06:10 |  #538

Nice bokeh from the old 35-70mm f2.8 Nikkor. At f/8 no less.

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SX10is, S90, d5100 (35mm1.8, 18-55mm, 55-200mm), d750 (28-300mm, 50mm 1.8, 35-70mm 2.8, 24-120mm f/4, 85mm 1.8G), EOS-M5 (EF-M 15-45mm, 18-150mm, EF 40mm 2.8), RX10mk4

  
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smythie
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Dec 24, 2016 14:43 |  #539

that is pretty good


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russ49
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Post edited over 2 years ago by russ49.
     
Dec 26, 2016 19:57 |  #540

Laser light display on this Christmas scene house at 10,000 ISO. Readout below says 12,800 iso but it is actually 10k.

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SX10is, S90, d5100 (35mm1.8, 18-55mm, 55-200mm), d750 (28-300mm, 50mm 1.8, 35-70mm 2.8, 24-120mm f/4, 85mm 1.8G), EOS-M5 (EF-M 15-45mm, 18-150mm, EF 40mm 2.8), RX10mk4

  
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