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Thread started 23 Jul 2009 (Thursday) 22:48
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The Film Thread (Red Ring not Required) A place for Analog Photography Nuts to Talk

 
edmidlifecrisis
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Post edited over 2 years ago by edmidlifecrisis.
     
Jan 05, 2017 23:15 |  #4801

Ballen Photo wrote in post #18234912 (external link)
Years ago on a film specific forum, the longevity of film came into question. It would seem that it will usually last a long time. Old rolls were found in attics, and had been there a good many years turned out just fine after being developed. Makes ya wonder, doesn't it?

Yes it does!!! A lot of mine have gone south. But my Kodachromes are virtually unchanged. Some are actually as old as I am, which is over 60 years.


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Jan 06, 2017 03:10 |  #4802

RB67sd and HP-5 pushed one stop


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Jan 06, 2017 04:49 |  #4803

edmidlifecrisis wrote in post #18235010 (external link)
Yes it does!!! A lot of mine have gone south. But my Kodachromes are virtually unchanged. Some are actually as old as I am, which is over 60 years.

I've found that my Fuji film feels more sturdier than the Kodak film over the years. Long ago I found 6 packs of Fuji film on sale for about 1/2 of what Kodak was and I bought like 12 packs of that. That's back when I was developing 2-3 rolls per week.

I kinda miss the 'convienience' of that. 1 hour processing wasn't too excruciating either.


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edmidlifecrisis
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Jan 06, 2017 10:51 |  #4804

CameraMan wrote in post #18235132 (external link)
I've found that my Fuji film feels more sturdier than the Kodak film over the years. Long ago I found 6 packs of Fuji film on sale for about 1/2 of what Kodak was and I bought like 12 packs of that. That's back when I was developing 2-3 rolls per week.

I kinda miss the 'convienience' of that. 1 hour processing wasn't too excruciating either.

I think some of that local processing that I used in various cities over the years wasn't as archival as I would have liked.....my guess is that is why some have deteriorated so much. I used to send stuff to Kodak too but not all the time, didn't think about that stuff at the time.


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Jan 06, 2017 11:36 |  #4805

edmidlifecrisis wrote in post #18235455 (external link)
I think some of that local processing that I used in various cities over the years wasn't as archival as I would have liked.....my guess is that is why some have deteriorated so much. I used to send stuff to Kodak too but not all the time, didn't think about that stuff at the time.

We had a great film developer. They were called Crest Photo Labs. But I used both Fuji and Kodak film. So I'm wondering if it was the quality of the actual film as apposed to the developer.


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Jan 06, 2017 15:10 as a reply to  @ post 18231831 |  #4806

Forgot to ask you guys if the gain looks weird to you.

If you zoom in there are tiny lines everywhere. Doesnt look like grain but maybe it is. Is it somthing monobath does?


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Jan 06, 2017 22:41 as a reply to  @ post 18231051 |  #4807

If you care about AF, then the Eos 3 is the way to go. It has the same AF used all the way up to the Canon 1D mark IV as well as the 1Ds Mark III. It also has spot metering linked to AF point through a custom function; you can only use certain points (11 or 19 can't remember), but they're spaced out really well and go all the way to the corners.

What film are you looking at? As opposed to digital, it's much easier to recover highlights, but you'll lose shadow detail very quickly. Portra 160 can be overexposed by a stop (probably two) with very little loss of detail, plus you'll get more shadow detail when you pull the exposure down in the scanner.

If you're looking at black and white film, take a look at Arista EDU 100 (which is the same exact film as Fomapan 100 but cheaper) or Kentmere 100. Look through different groups dedicated to film stocks on flickr. It's a great way to get an idea of what it'll look like. And with black and white film, you can pull it too. Shoot HP5 at 100 and then develop it as if it was a 100 film and it'll be exposed correctly. It'll reduce grain, but also reduce contrast. Or instead of all that, use a color filter. A yellow filter will brighten yellows, and darken blues, but you also lose a stop of exposure when using it. It does great things to skin tones when shooting portraits. Red filters will cause you to lose 3 stops of light, but the contrast will be insane. A 400 speed film will suddenly have to be shot as if it were a 50 speed film. Red filters are cool since the blue in the sky will become near black (think Ansel Adams).

ND filters are a great idea too. Portra 400 is an amazing film stock, so you can use an ND filter for portaits and any other wide open photos, but once the light fades you can take it off and have the full speed of the film. It's similar to what I've been doing with HP5. Push the film to 1600, use a yellow filter (essentially having to expose it at 800), but once I go inside or into the shade, I can pull it off and go back to 1600.

I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions or comments, feel free to DM me or post back in this thread; the people in here are awesome.


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Jan 06, 2017 22:50 as a reply to  @ Scottboarding's post |  #4808

Thanks. The 7NE I was looking at got over-bid. I am down to the EOS-3, but my wife is balking. Solution: don't tell her.

I don't know one film from another, really. To me, there is B&W and color. I only shoot for prints. When I last bought film, I just went into Walmart/Meijer/CVS, or whatever, and bought what they had in the speed I wanted. Retail outlets have such limited offerings that I may be better off at Amazon.com.

I just want to play with film for a bit, again, to slow me down. I need to get away from the spray/pray/chimp mentality that digital encourages and think about my settings and what I want to accomplish. I don't think which film I use matters much. I just want to force myself to THINK about what I am doing, and pay some attention to subject, composition,and lighting.




  
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Jan 06, 2017 23:01 as a reply to  @ Bassat's post |  #4809

If you don't mind ordering online, take a look at Lomography 100 or Agfa Vista 200. I shot a roll of agfa vista, and accidently overexposed a shot by at least two stops, and I was able to pull it back down when I scanned it. Lomography as a whole is kinda iffy, but their film is actually really nice. I shot a roll of the 400 on a little vacation to California two weeks ago, and I'm really happy with how it came out. IMO it's a pretty good substitute to Porta if you can't afford portra. But FYI when I got prints back from Walgreens they were hideous. I scanned the negatives at home with my scanner and the images look really nice. I was actually turned away from film the first time I got a roll back from Walgreens. After buying my own scanner I shoot more film than I do digital. If you're just wanting prints, then a chain store should be fine. But definitely not walmart! For some reason they don't return your negatives (even if you ask) so you'll forever be stuck with the 4x6 prints, or low res scans they give back to you.


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Jan 07, 2017 09:21 |  #4810

Scottboarding wrote in post #18236094 (external link)
If you care about AF, then the Eos 3 is the way to go. It has the same AF used all the way up to the Canon 1D mark IV as well as the 1Ds Mark III. It also has spot metering linked to AF point through a custom function; you can only use certain points (11 or 19 can't remember), but they're spaced out really well and go all the way to the corners.

This is some really useful information. I knew the EOS 3 was a pro body, so this makes sense. :-)


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Post edited over 2 years ago by sansational. (2 edits in all)
     
Jan 07, 2017 09:46 |  #4811

Alveric wrote in post #18234889 (external link)
That's another good point: will the local labs be able to process it?

My local lab in South Boston processed this three years ago.

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Post edited over 2 years ago by Alveric.
     
Jan 07, 2017 12:54 |  #4812
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sansational wrote in post #18236414 (external link)
My local lab in South Boston processed this three years ago.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/k3Y1​at  (external link)
Widelux F7 + Ektachrome E100VS (external link) by andrewjsan (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/k3Y4​Rg  (external link)
Widelux + Kodak Ektachrome (external link) by andrewjsan (external link), on Flickr

Is that 'toned' look the normal look of Ektachrome? Or did the lab get the 'WB' wrong?


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Jan 09, 2017 22:57 |  #4813

Scottboarding wrote in post #18236094 (external link)
If you care about AF, then the Eos 3 is the way to go. It has the same AF used all the way up to the Canon 1D mark IV as well as the 1Ds Mark III. It also has spot metering linked to AF point through a custom function; you can only use certain points (11 or 19 can't remember), but they're spaced out really well and go all the way to the corners.

What film are you looking at? As opposed to digital, it's much easier to recover highlights, but you'll lose shadow detail very quickly. Portra 160 can be overexposed by a stop (probably two) with very little loss of detail, plus you'll get more shadow detail when you pull the exposure down in the scanner.

If you're looking at black and white film, take a look at Arista EDU 100 (which is the same exact film as Fomapan 100 but cheaper) or Kentmere 100. Look through different groups dedicated to film stocks on flickr. It's a great way to get an idea of what it'll look like. And with black and white film, you can pull it too. Shoot HP5 at 100 and then develop it as if it was a 100 film and it'll be exposed correctly. It'll reduce grain, but also reduce contrast. Or instead of all that, use a color filter. A yellow filter will brighten yellows, and darken blues, but you also lose a stop of exposure when using it. It does great things to skin tones when shooting portraits. Red filters will cause you to lose 3 stops of light, but the contrast will be insane. A 400 speed film will suddenly have to be shot as if it were a 50 speed film. Red filters are cool since the blue in the sky will become near black (think Ansel Adams).

ND filters are a great idea too. Portra 400 is an amazing film stock, so you can use an ND filter for portaits and any other wide open photos, but once the light fades you can take it off and have the full speed of the film. It's similar to what I've been doing with HP5. Push the film to 1600, use a yellow filter (essentially having to expose it at 800), but once I go inside or into the shade, I can pull it off and go back to 1600.

I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions or comments, feel free to DM me or post back in this thread; the people in here are awesome.

I would have second the comments one EOS 3. I also have a 6D and and the AF on this film camera is way better.

The only problem I have is that the AF points don't show up that easily as on the new DSLR's and I don't know if it's something that can be looked it. But the camera is great and I love using it.


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Jan 10, 2017 18:39 |  #4814

I've been giving some thought to picking up an EOS film body so that I can use my L glass with film.
Any recommendations on what EOS film bodies are worth considering? I've only just started looking but there is a lot of chaff to sort through? I'd be willing to drop a couple hundred or so for the right camera.




  
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Jan 10, 2017 20:53 |  #4815

I own a few but the good one is a Canon EOS3. I think others will agree it has the best price performance ratio at this point. Works great with my L glass and feels enough like my 1DXs so it is easy to use. https://en.wikipedia.o​rg/wiki/Canon_EOS-3 (external link)


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The Film Thread (Red Ring not Required) A place for Analog Photography Nuts to Talk
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