Nikon D500 Group - Posts your pics!

tyr-sog wrote in post #18236949
Well whatever you are doing is working and I've seen great photos from this body from others(and myself).

Part of it is I just can't get decent weather to shoot in and I think this is where my personal issue lies. I shot FF for so long(D610, canon 6d, D810) the small DX sensor just cannot handle the lower light/cloudy conditions. The files fall a part fast.

I'm also having an issue with the display image on the LCD not representing the actual image coming out of the camera. I think I'm shooting fine until I get home and get them on my PC. So I have work to do in post usually with under exposed photos.

I may just have to look for different software. I don't think LR6 plays well with these Raws.

It may well be. Let me know if you experience another editing software that works better than LR. You may have to avoid situations entirely where the D500 doesn’t really perform. I second the overcast conditions as not suitable lighting conditions for this camera. I was actually quite upset with a shoot I did under cloudy conditions, but learned that clearer outdoor light in the only lighting that I should have clients under. See my examples, #1 overcast, #2 clear skies in fading light:

Looking at my photos I think it's not so much overcast but shadow recovery.

Also I think my complaint is that I'm just finding the D500 Raws a bit more work then what I'm use to.

Here's a higher ISO which I think looks brilliant all considering.

Raw in LR6/NIK
200-500

Never mind me, I don't know what I'm complaining about lol. Photos are beautiful.
I just have the D810 to fresh on my mind. That's not fair

Here's a couple more process from the JPEG.
Imported to LR6 and touched up in NIK.

I could not get the RAWS any where near the clarity as I could with the jpegs.
I thought that was weird as that has not been my case ever with previous bodies.

Wow, I'll have to experiment with shooting raw+jpegs.

Latest portrait, this one is my daughter.

D500 + Sigma 150-600mm C

"Off The Wall"
North Shore
Oahu, Hawaii

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/PX4Z​rK

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RbDh​MB

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/PUin​LC

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/QXsW​5Q

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/PUih​8U

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/R15D​Ea

Ok, a little magic here for me lol. Sharpness(so sharp), exposure, color, etc, right on.

Cardinal reds are usually so hard to capture. This is spot on. Maybe the grey skys helped.

jpeg again..just a little exposure added.

I tried again in LR6 with the RAW to replicate and best the JPEG but could not.

200-500 nikkor

Hi all
New to the Nikon family, was previously a 5d mark 3 user
just got my d500 with the sigma 50-100 f1.8 yesterday and did some test shots
need some advice on the af tracking
stationary subjects had dead on focus with absolutely stunning sharpness
but with a subject walking towards me i was getting very bad in-focus rates

seany wrote in post #18251828
Hi all
New to the Nikon family, was previously a 5d mark 3 user
just got my d500 with the sigma 50-100 f1.8 yesterday and did some test shots
need some advice on the af tracking
stationary subjects had dead on focus with absolutely stunning sharpness
but with a subject walking towards me i was getting very bad in-focus rates

Try this video or others by Steve Perry: https://www.youtube.co​m …4_JmgM_LDnqNo7Q​hwKZFHz2_G

seany wrote in post #18251828
Hi all
New to the Nikon family, was previously a 5d mark 3 user
just got my d500 with the sigma 50-100 f1.8 yesterday and did some test shots
need some advice on the af tracking
stationary subjects had dead on focus with absolutely stunning sharpness
but with a subject walking towards me i was getting very bad in-focus rates

Hi, congrats on the D500!

What AF mode?

i tried both single point as well as group
and tried quick->delayed, erratic->steady
does the 50-100 not focus fast enough to keep up with af-c?

i had a similar problem with the 5d3 initially but managed to nail it after changing the af case used
but im new to nikon so im not sure if im changing the right stuff

seany wrote in post #18251828
Hi all
New to the Nikon family, was previously a 5d mark 3 user
just got my d500 with the sigma 50-100 f1.8 yesterday and did some test shots
need some advice on the af tracking
stationary subjects had dead on focus with absolutely stunning sharpness
but with a subject walking towards me i was getting very bad in-focus rates

Let's start with terminology and basic AF operation.

AF tracking is for maintaining focus on a subject while something temporarily gets in the way. It's used when you have people, grasses, tree branches, wildlife etc. that get in the way and might temporarily cause you to lose focus. With a low setting it maintains focus briefly and allows you to quickly pick a new subject. With a High setting it maintains focus for much longer but that can also delay picking up an alternate subject - or putting focus in the right place if initial focus is incorrrect.

The situation you describe is 3D Focus tracking. The camera stays focused on the same subject, but adjusts as the distance to the subject gets closer - or further. This is especially good if you have bright color in the image. I don't normally use this mode, but it is intended for the situation you describe.

For any moving subject - and general use, AF-C supports focus for moving subjects and the defaults allow the camera to fire when it is slightly out of focus. The default is the camera fires when you press the shutter release. AF-S requires focus be achieved to fire - and it refuses if the subject is out of focus or it thinks it is out of focus. AF-Auto automatically decides between AF-C and AF-S, but my experience is it struggels when a static subject starts to move so I NEVER use it.

You don't mention how many focus points you are using. Generally you should use the smallest number possible. I use Single or Dynamic 25 points. The approach is to put the AF point on something with sharp contrast - a tree branch rather than a bunch of leaves or a person's collar rather than just the person. Ideally you want to focus on the eye of a person or animal, but if they have sunglasses or glasses, you might focus on something else in the same focus plane - the neck, the shoulder, etc.

Group AF uses a group of 5 AF sensors as a single sensor. It's less precise but a good alternative to Dynamic 25 point. Group tends to bias focus in favor of the closest subject in the group - but that may mean it picks up a foreground branch or blade of grass. Dynamic 25 point uses one AF point but uses the rest of the group to help. It is great for birds in flight or rapidly moving subjects, but it may miss focus and pick up something in the background. I use Single point, but will also use 25 points and Group if needed. Don't just let the camera automatically select unless you really don't care - like a photo of a flock of birds up close.

ericbowles wrote in post #18253180
Let's start with terminology and basic AF operation.

AF tracking is for maintaining focus on a subject while something temporarily gets in the way. It's used when you have people, grasses, tree branches, wildlife etc. that get in the way and might temporarily cause you to lose focus. With a low setting it maintains focus briefly and allows you to quickly pick a new subject. With a High setting it maintains focus for much longer but that can also delay picking up an alternate subject - or putting focus in the right place if initial focus is incorrrect.

The situation you describe is 3D Focus tracking. The camera stays focused on the same subject, but adjusts as the distance to the subject gets closer - or further. This is especially good if you have bright color in the image. I don't normally use this mode, but it is intended for the situation you describe.

For any moving subject - and general use, AF-C supports focus for moving subjects and the defaults allow the camera to fire when it is slightly out of focus. The default is the camera fires when you press the shutter release. AF-S requires focus be achieved to fire - and it refuses if the subject is out of focus or it thinks it is out of focus. AF-Auto automatically decides between AF-C and AF-S, but my experience is it struggels when a static subject starts to move so I NEVER use it.

You don't mention how many focus points you are using. Generally you should use the smallest number possible. I use Single or Dynamic 25 points. The approach is to put the AF point on something with sharp contrast - a tree branch rather than a bunch of leaves or a person's collar rather than just the person. Ideally you want to focus on the eye of a person or animal, but if they have sunglasses or glasses, you might focus on something else in the same focus plane - the neck, the shoulder, etc.

Group AF uses a group of 5 AF sensors as a single sensor. It's less precise but a good alternative to Dynamic 25 point. Group tends to bias focus in favor of the closest subject in the group - but that may mean it picks up a foreground branch or blade of grass. Dynamic 25 point uses one AF point but uses the rest of the group to help. It is great for birds in flight or rapidly moving subjects, but it may miss focus and pick up something in the background. I use Single point, but will also use 25 points and Group if needed. Don't just let the camera automatically select unless you really don't care - like a photo of a flock of birds up close.

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forum: Nikon Digital Cameras

Some great infomation and advice there, I have the D7100 and use the 9 point Dynamic in AF-C mode using the back button for focusing with the tracking set to medium strength, this seem about perfect for most objects that move at various speeds.

P.