Wilt wrote in post #18299175
- First photo was Program mode, Evaluative metering 'Pattern', and Flash status was
'Flash fired, compulsory flash mode'
- Second photo was Program mode, Evaluative metering 'Pattern', and strangely Flash status was
'Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode'
...so WHY did the flash NOT fire for photo 2, if camera was compulsory flash mode'?!
Probably because in the first image the flash was popped up, and so fired, since that is what it is supposed to do. In the second it was in the closed position, and so of course could not fire, exactly as it should do. I'm pretty sure that if you have the onborad flash closed that is a compulsory not fired situation. With it open it is a compulsory fired, since you turned it on. I think sometimes the notice in the EXIF suffers from translation by non native speakers issues. Simple transliteration from Japanese to English is very difficult, I know I have taken several conversational Japanese classes over the years, well back in the 90's anyway, so have some experience in the area. English to Japanese is just as difficult.
I also notice that the first camera must have manual ISO set, since if it were auto it would be forced to go to ISO 400. I don't know what the default is, especially in Program mode, since I simply never use P, but one option for flash is to set the shutter speed to 1/60 when using a ETTL II flash. Forcing 1/60s along with ISO 1600 in a relatively bright room, and then adding flash, which as someone else mentioned may not be able to reduce the output enough to prevent serious overexposure.
One issue with the image is that there are some foreground objects that are very close to the flash, and they are always at risk of blowing out when flash is used. Remember that an item that is 1m from the camera/flash combination will receive FOUR TIMES the level of illumination from the flash than a subject at 2m! A subject at 2m also receives 4× the illumination than a subject at 4m.
Actually it would be much better if the OP could take the same photograph, from the same location, with completely identical settings on both cameras. This would require a little work, since when I say all settings, I mean EVERY menu setting, as well as identical setting for exposure mode, ISO, your know EVERYTHING. By taking two images from the same spot framing the image identically each time, it would beome much easier to see what is going on for us. With the two images being different, it is really hard to say what the differences between the two cameras are, since the two situations are completely different.