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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 15 Sep 2014 (Monday) 11:20
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-= 7D2 owners unite! Discuss and post photos!

 
Immaculens
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Mar 18, 2017 20:16 |  #16606

Wow.... posted in wrong thread lol.... thank-you... explains why not many replies lol...


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Immaculens
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Mar 18, 2017 21:46 |  #16607

dusk recon... he's on the move...


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7Dmk II gripped | 5Dc | 150-600 (Σ) OS C | 55-250 IS STM | 100L f/2.8 IS Macro | 15-85 IS | 50 f/1.8 STM | 30 Σ f/1.4 'A'
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Mar 18, 2017 22:04 |  #16608

. . Stepped into the garden between rain to check my new 6d. It was only after returning to process that I realised that I had picked up the 7dmkll by mistake:oops: The last (not so brilliant) pic was taken with a 24-105. I intended to take an image of the flowers when I was nearly on top of the bird when I saw him.

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digital ­ paradise
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Mar 18, 2017 22:21 |  #16609

Pondrader wrote in post #18304580 (external link)
And that is not saying DP will or will not get a better image standing next to a second shooter with totally differnt settings. So the answer is make it your own and you will get what you want from this camera... Until the next one comes along. I follow no one but make my own path. !!

Of course you set it up the way you like but they are all designed the same way and do the same thing.


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digital ­ paradise
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Mar 18, 2017 22:31 |  #16610

Scrumhalf wrote in post #18304435 (external link)
Large Zone AF worked great for me to get my killdeer shots in the following post I put up a few days ago

https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=18299475

Remember that in zone AF, the CLOSEST object is picked for focusing. It is possible that for a large bird like an egret or a heron, the wingtip will be in focus and the eye may not, so I don't know if zone is the best for it, but for a duck, and if you are shooting at a smaller aperture, it might be fine. The advantage of zone AF is that it does not get confused by any BG stuff. I had the case settings at (-2, 1,1) for the killdeer shots

That is possible. Obviously zone will never be as precise. Anywhere on the body area usually is enough because at those distances you have enough DOF. I find it very tough to keep a focus point on a birds eye when tracking it in flight at the best of times.


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keeperseeker
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Mar 18, 2017 22:58 as a reply to  @ post 18304306 |  #16611

BIF also require different shutter speeds,,,depending on the bird. Ducks need faster speeds 1/2000 -1/2500 often,,there wings are very fast. A eagle or hawk maybe 1/1000-1/1500. A blue heron 1/500-1/1000,,a hummingbird ,,well1/100000000 lol. You will learn.


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Immaculens
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Mar 18, 2017 23:07 |  #16612

Focal length plays an influence on shutter speed big-time also...

Shot with a 70-300L for 5 yrs and could use 1/1250 for almost any BIF to freeze wings, but when I started shooting 500mm+ then the shutter speed had to go up to freeze the wing tips - and all the higher the closer the BIF is at longer focal lengths... it was all really a whole new learning curve, such was the typical experiences recounted on the Sigma 150-600 OS 'C' thread a year ago... and of course you have to squeeze the aperture tighter to f/7.1 - f/9 to get the full wing-span.... again, all the more the closer the bird.


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digital ­ paradise
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Mar 18, 2017 23:10 |  #16613

keeperseeker wrote in post #18304727 (external link)
BIF also require different shutter speeds,,,depending on the bird. Ducks need faster speeds 1/2000 -1/2500 often,,there wings are very fast. A eagle or hawk maybe 1/1000-1/1500. A blue heron 1/500-1/1000,,a hummingbird ,,well1/100000000 lol. You will learn.

When someone is struggling with BIF my advice is appropriate shutter speeds and correct technique will take you much further than mucking around with the camera settings if you are not very familiar with them. There was some discussion about this and about a year ago so I set my cam to factory settings - case 1, 1st and 2nd priory to equal and nailed gulls with ease. I posted images. Then tried all the other cases and focusing modes.

The 7D2 does a great job with basic settings with faster and steady birds. It is when you get into the real erratic movement it gets challenging. Smaller birds are more erratic, sports with fast stopping and starting. You have to tune it so it works for you.


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Mar 18, 2017 23:24 |  #16614

As for zone this is in 65 point.

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Case 2

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Ignores background well.

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It picked out this one with a moving bus behind it. It was a major crop as it was far away.

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Mar 18, 2017 23:27 |  #16615

65 point zone as well.

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Mar 18, 2017 23:31 |  #16616

cool, what is the shutter for this image?

digital paradise wrote in post #18304744 (external link)
65 point zone as well.

QUOTED IMAGE


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Mar 18, 2017 23:34 |  #16617

Immaculens wrote in post #18304747 (external link)
cool, what is the shutter for this image?

1/4000


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Mar 18, 2017 23:37 |  #16618

I had fun with this one. There were two and and the were youngsters.

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Mar 18, 2017 23:39 |  #16619

digital paradise wrote in post #18304748 (external link)
1/4000

Well this is my first body with Exposure Compensation in M mode (although I have never used elsewhere, either) and I do look forward to having adequate SS and if the ISO is over 3200.... oh well ~ I always say better to get the critical shot with some noise than motion blur...


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7Dmk II gripped | 5Dc | 150-600 (Σ) OS C | 55-250 IS STM | 100L f/2.8 IS Macro | 15-85 IS | 50 f/1.8 STM | 30 Σ f/1.4 'A'
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Mar 18, 2017 23:45 |  #16620

Case 1 - 65 point zone. They weren't too erratic otherwise I would had have been in Case 6 which I up ASFW to 2.

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Anywhere in the viewfinder will do :-) However I prefer the centre points.

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