-= 7D2 owners unite! Discuss and post photos!

Some game photos. Decisions, decisions. Too many to choose from.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RSM7​mD

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RQdg​J5

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/SwRS​ts

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RQdg​jY

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RSM7​g8

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/SVnQ​C2

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/SVnQ​Ft

^^^ Nice stuff...
may i inquire on why f5? do you find that the best sharp point for your lens?

i shot soccer goofaround and used f2.8 and wondered if i should of used a higher f...

Some miscellaneous and post game photos.

My buddy, Raymond

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RQdg​hy

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RQdg​xU

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RSM7​dT

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Archibald wrote in post #18304581
Agreed. There seems to be no way to do semi-systematic tests to learn what works best or to tune settings for BIF. So we are left to stay on default or guess at settings or follow someone's advice for BIF events that are unpredictable.

TS is easy to test because you set up consistent conditions. So is AF switching. Select 65 point zone in any case #. Pick a garden gnome or any still object that is closer to the camera than other objects. Set AFSW to 0. Focus in on the object and move the camera to the left and right. Now do that with it set to 2. Try to move at the same speed for both settings. Try a little faster with both. You should easily see what the points are doing.

I have found no way to test Accel/decel but the new IDX II AF guide clearly explains what we suspected. Movement to and away from us. Fast stops and starts, acceleration and deceleration. It makes the camera more prepared and sensitive to those movements.

I think it should apply when the action is in a 45 degree angle. If you are tracking using single point or expansion it may be tough to really tell unless you shot one event with a low setting and one with a high setting and then compare keeper rates.

Case 6 combines cases 4 and 5 so you will see the AF points in action tracking left right, up or down if you are in zone AF but the forward/back motion might be hard to see if tracking is better. I have not had a chance for that type of shooting but I'd like to do it as case #4, although I understand what it does is the least used one by me so far.

That is why I shoot faster more erratic birds in Case 6 and 65 point zone. The camera helps me track better although sometimes they are just to fast for me to keep up and keep some the 65 AF points it.

TeleFragger wrote in post #18305848
^^^ Nice stuff...
may i inquire on why f5? do you find that the best sharp point for your lens?

i shot soccer goofaround and used f2.8 and wondered if i should of used a higher f...

Because I was using a Canon 100-400 mm F/4.5-5.6 II lens. It has a variable aperture depending on how far out you are zoomed and that was wide open for that amount of zoom

I'd love for someone to buy me a 400mm F/2.8 so I can shoot F/2.8, especially for night games.

Doc

McNeese72 wrote in post #18306117
Because I was using a Canon 100-400 mm F/4.5-5.6 II lens. It has a variable aperture depending on how far out you are zoomed and that was wide open for that amount of zoom

I'd love for someone to buy me a 400mm F/2.8 so I can shoot F/2.8, especially for night games.

Doc

workin on it

McNeese72 wrote in post #18305852
Some miscellaneous and post game photos.

My buddy, Raymond

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RQdg​hy baseball_sfa_3_2017-472 by Richard Martin, on Flickr

My son and grandson made the game.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RQdg​xU baseball_sfa_3_2017-451 by Richard Martin, on Flickr

The kids got to run the bases after the game.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/RSM7​dT baseball_sfa_3_2017-477 by Richard Martin, on Flickr

Almost forgot these photos. A great catch in dead straight-a-way centerfield.

Gallery photo:
posted by McNeese72 originally in forum: Sports

Gallery photo:
posted by McNeese72 originally in forum: Sports

Gallery photo:
posted by McNeese72 originally in forum: Sports

That's all for now.

Doc

Doc,
The following comment is not a criticism not comment to you. This set that you posted is a GREAT EXAMPLE of why shotgunning the shutter is not the way to capture peak sports action . It demonstrates that even at 10 frames per second the photographer still needs to use timing to capture peak. Between frames the ball travels 5 to 10 feet. Almost got the first shot but I know you know just a tad early. Unlike your perfectly time shots of the.batters above. Makes a difference in the strength of the shot, and asthetics for action.

Pondrader wrote in post #18306198
workin on it

Still doing my part every week.

Edit: Make that twice a week.

Doc

gschlact wrote in post #18306201
Doc,
The following comment is not a criticism not comment to you. This set that you posted is a GREAT EXAMPLE of why shotgunning the shutter is not the way to capture peak sports action . It demonstrates that even at 10 frames per second the photographer still needs to use timing to capture peak. Between frames the ball travels 5 to 10 feet. Almost got the first shot but I know you know just a tad early. Unlike your perfectly time shots of the.batters above. Makes a difference in the strength of the shot, and asthetics for action.

I'm not sure what you are referring to. If you are talking about the wall shots, at the distance it was it is hard to tell where the ball was to time the shots.

For shots of the batter's hitting the ball timing is everything. You can't shotgun it and expect to get good results because of the speed of the ball. If you get one like that it is usually just luck. I like to shoot the batter from the right field side for two reasons. One reason is that most of the batters are right handed so they are open to you and you can see their faces see the bat contact the ball. Second reason is that I am left eyed so my left eye is in the viewfinder while my right eye is on the pitcher throwing the ball. Seeing the pitcher throwing helps me try to time the pitch. I try to time the shutter on every pitch when the ball should be crossing the plate. You can't wait until you see the batter starting his swing or you will already be too late. I usually shoot in a one or two shot burst. It is very hard thing to do. I do need to up my shutter speed more if I expect to freeze the ball better.

Shooting sports is positioning, timing, and, of course, some luck.

Doc

Pondrader wrote in post #18306198
workin on it

I want the 400 DO II. I have seen outstanding crisp shots with a 2X III. Light and you get 560 and 800 with the TC's. I did learn the lesson of having a faster lens when I shot a night game with an F4 lens. My 70-200 2.8 II is great for that but limited for distance. Wish I had the money to have em all

I agree. I watch the batters hands. 2 maybe 3 shots. I have decent luck doing that.

HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.

We all do.

TeleFragger wrote in post #18305450
^^^ well since I had my t2i I was always that centerpoint AF AI Servo guy and just caught the moments.. you can see them in my flickr go ways back... and it worked..

I thought the 7dm2 would be light years better and could get away to the single AF point and go 65... I can use center bracket section which I did today at times.. but since players run left or right and can change direction it is just too tough to setup to use say right bracket.. then ball stripped and switch to left bracket... so you always have player with room in front of them...telling the story of where they are going.

I may just go back to my old ways.. yes the 7dm2 is a very nice camera over my t2i but for my needs it doesn't just overwhelm with benefits... still love the camera and with this tammy I'm stoked and enjoying it..

I have yet (prior to the new lens) to enjoy the full bennies of the 7dm2 as the first day I just didn't feel like... WOW THIS IS SO AWESOME.....

I may be pretty late to the party here, but looking at your "mega crop" example, I'd say numero uno for you is get closer to the action. Your AF will work wonders if you get closer. That will remove many of the other objects (kids, net, buildings, etc) from the viewfinder and the AF system will be able to track your intended subject. I use the point expansion and the cluster of 8 points in the center, not center zone when I'm shooting sports and it works beautifully.
Keep working at it and it will get easier, it's not a camera most can just pick up and go shoot action. I also recommend the "ignores objects moving into the scene" tracking function and have found once it's on subject, it won't let go.

JVthePT wrote in post #18306660
I may be pretty late to the party here, but looking at your "mega crop" example, I'd say numero uno for you is get closer to the action. Your AF will work wonders if you get closer. That will remove many of the other objects (kids, net, buildings, etc) from the viewfinder and the AF system will be able to track your intended subject. I use the point expansion and the cluster of 8 points in the center, not center zone when I'm shooting sports and it works beautifully.
Keep working at it and it will get easier, it's not a camera most can just pick up and go shoot action. I also recommend the "ignores objects moving into the scene" tracking function and have found once it's on subject, it won't let go.

yes i know to get in closer but i have had similar issues with other pics that i was closer. but have been reading a lot and think I now know why hah..

its all good... i love messing with this stuff.

Scrumhalf wrote in post #18305473
Also remember that ALL the zone modes including 65 point, will focus on the NEAREST thing. If that's a blade of grass 10 feet in front of the soccer player or a ripple in the lake 10feet in front of the duck, then you're going to get an OOF shot. So, you need to be careful of when to use the zone modes. I've had good luck with zone when I have birds sufficiently off the ground so that I don't accidentally focus on a foreground object. In that case, you'll get goo results. Otherwise, if you are in a cluttered situation, one of the expanded clusters, either 5pt or 9pt may be a better choice.

and this is why. I actually spent a lot of time yesterday getting to know AF for the 7dm2. watched many videos and read up on this. And this I have learned now as I didnt know this!!! I thought that going from the t2i to this new magical awesome-sauce 65pt AF will give me so much more and I was missing out.

but in reality watching those videos of sports and wildlife shooters that use the 7dm2... they actually go into the menu and get rid of those so you cant use them. They say due to it grabbing what is the closest they never use it so why have it in the list as when you switch around you could switch among 3 vs 7 or whatever it truly is... hah...

so hopefully if it doesnt rain (which it most likely will ) sunday i will be taking more soccer pics and seeing if I can get this done better... more to come