Pagman wrote in post #18329845
How would you get on with a 300mm prime without any stabilisation with a crop length of 450mm, I have tried hand holding mine at 1/300sec for some prop blur but cant to much shake is noticable, slowest I can go even with steady hands is 1/400sec.
I find with my cheapy plastic bodied Sigma 28-300 without stabilization, that I don't have too many issues, but then I only expect a keeper rate of less than 20%, which is a big advantage over shooting film. I find that three shot bursts are best, but they make the timing harder for some shots, as you have to time for frame two. The first shot has vertical movement from the shutter press, the last shot get vertical movement from you relaxing the hand to stop the burst. It would be nice to program the camera to shoot a burst, without you having to let go the button during shooting. Having a reasonable panning rate also helps, as does the aircraft keeping a constant speed. Even so you have to remember that even though it might keep a constant velocity relative to the ground, it will have a variable angular speed relative to you.
Panning is actually a help in that it gives the lens a fair bit of momentum in the horizontal direction, which seems to dampen out much of the vertical movement of the lens. For stationary situations then I always suggest using the same stance you will see Olympic target rifle shooter using in the standing position. This means that you will keep you feet about shoulder width apart, and you will stand with your weak/off hand side pointing at the subject, for a right hander that will be the left side. You will keep the left arm pulled back against your chest, and support the weight of the camera/lens on or just behind the center of gravity. This will aid in keeping your arm tight against the chest. Women have an advantage here because they have a higher and more pronounce Iliac Ridge, and can often (but by no means always) rest the elbow on the ridge. Ideally you will be able to keep your head upright, and still have the camera high enough to see through the viewfinder. Keep the camera back pressed against the face, as that will also help stabilise the position. The trick is that you are only using bone to support the weight, not muscle.
Once you have the position sorted, you just need to be able to release the shot. Ideally you should be breathing normally, as you wait to shoot, with the initial pressure on the shutter button. Then you will exhale to the normal level and instead of breathing in you extend the natural pause between breaths and gently squeeze the button. You have between 8 and about 12 seconds to do this. Oh and of course as you are breathing the view will be going up and down too, as your chest wall expands and contacts. A heavier camera and lens can actually be a help, as it has more inertia.
With some practice this will become pretty automatic, a couple of times a week for a couple of months should see you start to get there .
As well as the photography I spent 20 some years as a competitive smallbore rifle shooter, managing to represent the RAF, Combined Services and Wales in competitions. A few years ago when my daughter was shooting competitively as a member of the GB Junior squad, she convinced me to shoot in the disabled class at the British Airgun Champs, and I managed a 6th place in my class. I was invited to test for the GB Paralympic squad, but it turned out my disability is not classifiable for international competition.
Overall though it does mean that I have had a lot of practice over the years at standing very still, while pointing heavy objects.