80D at the Melbourne Air Show

This was my first air show and I must say it was a blast, even if I was behind the camera for most of it.
The 80D did not disappoint at all. I will say that a few more FPS would be awesome, but probably overkill for this body. AF tracking in AI Servo was **always** dead on regardless if I used all 45pt, single point, or zone AF.
I am not new to AF techniques, Canon or Nikon, so an air show may not be for a novice...but still..fun nonetheless.
Also extremely impressed with the battery life. Granted I do very little chimping, but I do it during down time and/or to check if I got the 'money shot'. I shot a whopping 4865 images in ~4.5hrs! And I only swapped the battery ONCE...that's right, >4800 shots with less than two fully charged OEM LP-E6/N!!!!! Very impressed by that, and if it wasnt for the image count and LR, I would not have believed it...

Also, since I do not do a whole lot of this stuff I picked up a $690 Canon 100-400L V1 and WOW...so impressed with it, too. The pump action made tracking and reframing a really easy task once I got used to the motion, which did not take long. And the images were actually impressive, must be a sharp copy because I played with one a few years back and was not impressed then...but I am now, especially for the $$!

I simply used Manual mode, F/8, 1/4000, and Auto-ISO. Seemed to work pretty good..

Yea, yea yea...on with the images, right..
So out of 4800 I narrowed it down to ~140 for the Flickr album....sorry, that was the best I could do LOL

Oh, I made the mistake of shooting in Jpeg, I know...I was THIS close to getting it (all) right...oh well.

Please, give me some CC!

Here's a couple of my favorites, and the whole gallery can be seen here
https://www.flickr.com​/gp/hypercams/999632

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/SAAw​V8

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/TLMi​rC

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/TCWq​Lc

Glad you liked the 80D. You should read this: Airshow guys - prop freeze

And this: In the "Share" areas IMAGE POSTING RULES specifically state: "Do not use the forum as your image gallery, post only the best of the best and link to the rest."
This means we allow 2 attachments by the OP per thread, OR 8 embedded (linked) images, OR a combination of 2 attachments + 6 embedded (linked) images, totaling 8 per thread. (Maximum 1280 pixels on any side.) You can always just post a link to more, though, or better yet, post a link to a gallery so we don't have to click on each image link.
Some exceptions are group threads, like "Show Me...", "Post your best...", equipment reviews, Tutorials, etc.
You may add a few additional photos if requested, but only in a reply to other member's post and request.

D'oh! Got carried away I guess and forgot the rules! Apologies!

Yes for the propellor driven aircraft you really want to be down under 1/250s for the shutter speed. My usual maximum is 1/160, and sometimes I'll come down to 1/125. Helicopters are even harder, the large ones like the Sea King you really need 1/60s to get any sort of decent rotor blur! Jets can then make a nice change, when you can wind the shutter speed up to the thousands ranges.

Alan

BigAl007 wrote in post #18329722
Yes for the propellor driven aircraft you really want to be down under 1/250s for the shutter speed. My usual maximum is 1/160, and sometimes I'll come down to 1/125. Helicopters are even harder, the large ones like the Sea King you really need 1/60s to get any sort of decent rotor blur! Jets can then make a nice change, when you can wind the shutter speed up to the thousands ranges.

Alan

How would you get on with a 300mm prime without any stabilisation with a crop length of 450mm, I have tried hand holding mine at 1/300sec for some prop blur but cant to much shake is noticable, slowest I can go even with steady hands is 1/400sec.

P.

Pagman wrote in post #18329845
How would you get on with a 300mm prime without any stabilisation with a crop length of 450mm, I have tried hand holding mine at 1/300sec for some prop blur but cant to much shake is noticable, slowest I can go even with steady hands is 1/400sec.

P.

I can see where you might have a problem with something slow moving like a chopper. Something moving faster works better for me to get a smooth pan, & it helps to concentrate on keeping a focus point on one specific part of the aircraft.
And I don't care if I have to delete a dozen iffy shots if I can get that one shot that I've been working for, like this one: F4U-5 Corsair

Nice set.

Pagman wrote in post #18329845
How would you get on with a 300mm prime without any stabilisation with a crop length of 450mm, I have tried hand holding mine at 1/300sec for some prop blur but cant to much shake is noticable, slowest I can go even with steady hands is 1/400sec.

P.

I find with my cheapy plastic bodied Sigma 28-300 without stabilization, that I don't have too many issues, but then I only expect a keeper rate of less than 20%, which is a big advantage over shooting film. I find that three shot bursts are best, but they make the timing harder for some shots, as you have to time for frame two. The first shot has vertical movement from the shutter press, the last shot get vertical movement from you relaxing the hand to stop the burst. It would be nice to program the camera to shoot a burst, without you having to let go the button during shooting. Having a reasonable panning rate also helps, as does the aircraft keeping a constant speed. Even so you have to remember that even though it might keep a constant velocity relative to the ground, it will have a variable angular speed relative to you.

Panning is actually a help in that it gives the lens a fair bit of momentum in the horizontal direction, which seems to dampen out much of the vertical movement of the lens. For stationary situations then I always suggest using the same stance you will see Olympic target rifle shooter using in the standing position. This means that you will keep you feet about shoulder width apart, and you will stand with your weak/off hand side pointing at the subject, for a right hander that will be the left side. You will keep the left arm pulled back against your chest, and support the weight of the camera/lens on or just behind the center of gravity. This will aid in keeping your arm tight against the chest. Women have an advantage here because they have a higher and more pronounce Iliac Ridge, and can often (but by no means always) rest the elbow on the ridge. Ideally you will be able to keep your head upright, and still have the camera high enough to see through the viewfinder. Keep the camera back pressed against the face, as that will also help stabilise the position. The trick is that you are only using bone to support the weight, not muscle.

Once you have the position sorted, you just need to be able to release the shot. Ideally you should be breathing normally, as you wait to shoot, with the initial pressure on the shutter button. Then you will exhale to the normal level and instead of breathing in you extend the natural pause between breaths and gently squeeze the button. You have between 8 and about 12 seconds to do this. Oh and of course as you are breathing the view will be going up and down too, as your chest wall expands and contacts. A heavier camera and lens can actually be a help, as it has more inertia.

With some practice this will become pretty automatic, a couple of times a week for a couple of months should see you start to get there .

As well as the photography I spent 20 some years as a competitive smallbore rifle shooter, managing to represent the RAF, Combined Services and Wales in competitions. A few years ago when my daughter was shooting competitively as a member of the GB Junior squad, she convinced me to shoot in the disabled class at the British Airgun Champs, and I managed a 6th place in my class. I was invited to test for the GB Paralympic squad, but it turned out my disability is not classifiable for international competition.

Overall though it does mean that I have had a lot of practice over the years at standing very still, while pointing heavy objects.

Alan

BigAl007 wrote in post #18330728
I find with my cheapy plastic bodied Sigma 28-300 without stabilization, that I don't have too many issues, but then I only expect a keeper rate of less than 20%, which is a big advantage over shooting film. I find that three shot bursts are best, but they make the timing harder for some shots, as you have to time for frame two. The first shot has vertical movement from the shutter press, the last shot get vertical movement from you relaxing the hand to stop the burst. It would be nice to program the camera to shoot a burst, without you having to let go the button during shooting. Having a reasonable panning rate also helps, as does the aircraft keeping a constant speed. Even so you have to remember that even though it might keep a constant velocity relative to the ground, it will have a variable angular speed relative to you.

Panning is actually a help in that it gives the lens a fair bit of momentum in the horizontal direction, which seems to dampen out much of the vertical movement of the lens. For stationary situations then I always suggest using the same stance you will see Olympic target rifle shooter using in the standing position. This means that you will keep you feet about shoulder width apart, and you will stand with your weak/off hand side pointing at the subject, for a right hander that will be the left side. You will keep the left arm pulled back against your chest, and support the weight of the camera/lens on or just behind the center of gravity. This will aid in keeping your arm tight against the chest. Women have an advantage here because they have a higher and more pronounce Iliac Ridge, and can often (but by no means always) rest the elbow on the ridge. Ideally you will be able to keep your head upright, and still have the camera high enough to see through the viewfinder. Keep the camera back pressed against the face, as that will also help stabilise the position. The trick is that you are only using bone to support the weight, not muscle.

Once you have the position sorted, you just need to be able to release the shot. Ideally you should be breathing normally, as you wait to shoot, with the initial pressure on the shutter button. Then you will exhale to the normal level and instead of breathing in you extend the natural pause between breaths and gently squeeze the button. You have between 8 and about 12 seconds to do this. Oh and of course as you are breathing the view will be going up and down too, as your chest wall expands and contacts. A heavier camera and lens can actually be a help, as it has more inertia.

With some practice this will become pretty automatic, a couple of times a week for a couple of months should see you start to get there .

As well as the photography I spent 20 some years as a competitive smallbore rifle shooter, managing to represent the RAF, Combined Services and Wales in competitions. A few years ago when my daughter was shooting competitively as a member of the GB Junior squad, she convinced me to shoot in the disabled class at the British Airgun Champs, and I managed a 6th place in my class. I was invited to test for the GB Paralympic squad, but it turned out my disability is not classifiable for international competition.

Overall though it does mean that I have had a lot of practice over the years at standing very still, while pointing heavy objects.

Alan

Thanks alan that is some very useful advice and the breathing technique I already try to do, I learned that some years ago with a long-ish lens slr, I find the most challenging is when you are following a plane traveling towards you and about to go over head, its quite hard panning or following still in that position of flight and still get a sharp shot with prop blur, more distant shots or following along the horizontal is a lot easier also having some distance reduces the image blur.

P.

A friend has the 2.8 300 and does quite well below 1/200.
just practice and as Frank said below. faster panning can be easier than slow.

It may not be practical for timing, but a 2 Second Delay Shutter Release setting would allow you to shoot without holding the shutter button.

I do my best work when panning, but it usually takes an event or 2 before I get smooth at it after the winter off. Shooting something stationary with a long lens is a real challenge compared to panning with a moving target. Unfortunately I won't get in any practice before our big full scale event which is next Sunday, well before my R/C events get going. The Patrouille de France & the Snowbirds are the headliners along with several warbirds from the Vintage Wings collection. panning the jets is pretty straight forward thanks to higher shutter speeds but I'll have lots of prop planes to shoot at 1/250 or slower.

cicopo wrote in post #18336247
I do my best work when panning, but it usually takes an event or 2 before I get smooth at it after the winter off. Shooting something stationary with a long lens is a real challenge compared to panning with a moving target. Unfortunately I won't get in any practice before our big full scale event which is next Sunday, well before my R/C events get going. The Patrouille de France & the Snowbirds are the headliners along with several warbirds from the Vintage Wings collection. panning the jets is pretty straight forward thanks to higher shutter speeds but I'll have lots of prop planes to shoot at 1/250 or slower.

Traffic is everywhere. Even 1/2 hour of panning it will warm you up for the event.