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Thread started 20 Oct 2016 (Thursday) 00:13
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Is there any image stitching software that is truly easy to use?

 
tonylong
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Apr 14, 2017 13:42 |  #61

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18327769 (external link)
The problem is that I have photoshop, and cannot for the life of me figure out how to use it. Just getting one of my images "into photoshop" seems like a monumental accomplishment! I have done it before, but I have forgotten how.

And I don't know how to get RAW files into photoshop at all - in fact, I don't think it is even possible to get a RAW image into PS........and I really don't want to work with jpegs or tiffs.

And I have no idea how to use "bridge" or whatever it is that they call the thing that is supposed to work with photoshop.

See - I am so flustered and confused that I can't even take the first step without already being convinced that it won't be the right step. I really don't even know how to begin. People have tried to teach me this stuff before, but it just never seems to get into my brain.

.

Tom, I'm a bit mind-boggled here! I mean, seriously, are you seriously unable to open and process Raw file in the Adobe software?

I mean, not just Photoshop Standar as well as Elements and Lightroom all have "built-in software, called Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) that will impport Raw files and open them for processing, and you can select a "set" of files to "blend" or "merge" them in your Adobe app, andf it's all there and not so complicated, so I'm not sure on what the problem is here?

As to "zipping", well, I'm not a Mac user. On a PC, "zipping is in fact a built-in function that combines multiple files, and then you can "un-zip" a set of files. With a PC, there are right-click methods both to zip and also to un-zip. So, I guess Mac users will have input here! ?


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DagoImaging
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Apr 14, 2017 14:54 as a reply to  @ post 18327772 |  #62

zip is a method of combining a set of files into an archive that is compressed. You then upload that archive file to googleDrive or Dropbox and give us a link to it.

For mac you'd use izip http://www.izip.com/ (external link) or similar software.


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patrick ­ j
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Apr 14, 2017 15:34 |  #63

Before you go chasing down other software, I'd figure out how to use Photoshop's stitching thing, or Lightroom. I don't have Photoshop, if it's anything like Elements, you go to the File -> New -> Panorama, then just select the files in the order you shot them, Photoshop will do all the work for you. Elements does a very good job, and I'm sure Photoshop is even better. Not sure if it will stand up to the scrutiny of having your nose 12 inches from the picture, but I think it will look very good.


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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 14, 2017 23:07 |  #64

DagoImaging wrote in post #18327963 (external link)
zip is a method of combining a set of files into an archive that is compressed. You then upload that archive file to googleDrive or Dropbox and give us a link to it.

For mac you'd use izip http://www.izip.com/ (external link) or similar software.

I have a Google account, and am able to get on the Google Drive website, but for the life of me I have never been able to figure out how to use it.

About a month and a half ago, someone sent me some files via Google Drive, and I had to spend half an hour on the phone to Apple support so that they could figure out how I could "get" the photos off of Drive and onto my computer. About a week later the same person sent me more files via Drive, and I couldn't remember what the heck it was that I did the first time to get those photos downloaded.

I simply have a lot of trouble figuring out how to use programs, and something that you make sound so easy - "upload that archive file to Google Drive" - could take me hours to figure out how to do.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 14, 2017 23:17 |  #65

tonylong wrote in post #18327919 (external link)
Tom, I'm a bit mind-boggled here! I mean, seriously, are you seriously unable to open and process Raw file in the Adobe software?

Tony, please keep in mind who you are talking to, and my overall ineptitude when it comes to computers.

Today, my boss texted me and asked me to turn the computer off at the end of the day. When 4:00 rolled around, I tried to turn the computer off, and couldn't figure out how the heck to do it. It's a Windows-based computer - different from my iMac. I looked all over the screen and didn't see anything to click on that would turn the computer off. I looked again and again and again, and still couldn't fine what to click on.

My boss had left for an evening engagement where there is no cell service, so I couldn't call or text him to ask how to shut it down. So I had to leave the computer on. It will be on all weekend because I couldn't figure out how the freakin' heck to turn it off.

So, now that you understand that, is it really all that mind-boggling that I have not figured out how to get RAW files into Photoshop?

Plus, you make it sound so difficult - as if I have to use TWO programs to get it done. So I have to use ACR AND Photoshop, just to use PS on a RAW file? That seems overly complicated to me. How would I get the image into ACR? How do I get it from ACR into PS? Does it really remain a RAW file the whole time, or does ACR somehow send it to PS as a jpeg or a TIFF? When I am in PS, I want to be working on a RAW file there - I do not want to work on jpegs. I want it to stay a RAW the whole time, like it does with Lightroom or iPhoto. So much confusion!


.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 14, 2017 23:18 |  #66

patrick j wrote in post #18327990 (external link)
Before you go chasing down other software, I'd figure out how to use Photoshop's stitching thing . . .

If I can figure out a way to get unconverted RAW files directly into Photoshop, I will try to give that a try.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 14, 2017 23:24 |  #67

Wilt wrote in post #18327847 (external link)
Included by Canon with their cameras is a utility program called 'Photostich'...it is among the utility programs on the Canon-supplied software DVD that comes with new cameras.

It sounds like this is worth a try. I would think that it works directly with the RAW files, because it is proprietary software - is this a correct assumption?

Once I get the program downloaded onto my computer, how would I go about getting the image files "into" the program? Is it a drag and drop kind of thing, or is there some other method that one must use in order to get the images into the program?

If it is a drag and drop, would I be able to drag the images directly from my program "Photos" into "Photostich", or would I have to export them out of "Photos" and onto my desktop, and then drag them into "Photostich" from there?

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 14, 2017 23:27 |  #68

Wilt wrote in post #18327847 (external link)
I pretended to be a fairly unknowledgeable snapshooter.

That is some awesome Title Fairy fodder!

If you didn't already have such a great title, I think she would use this on you!

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Apr 15, 2017 00:18 |  #69

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18328281 (external link)
It sounds like this is worth a try. I would think that it works directly with the RAW files, because it is proprietary software - is this a correct assumption?

Once I get the program downloaded onto my computer, how would I go about getting the image files "into" the program? Is it a drag and drop kind of thing, or is there some other method that one must use in order to get the images into the program?

If it is a drag and drop, would I be able to drag the images directly from my program "Photos" into "Photostich", or would I have to export them out of "Photos" and onto my desktop, and then drag them into "Photostich" from there?

.

Unfortunately Photostich appears to NOT work on RAW files...if you start Photostich and select the button to stitch selected files and navigate to the folder (to select the RAW files to stitch), it does not even see the .CR2 files in the list of files within that folder.


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Apr 15, 2017 00:19 |  #70

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18328282 (external link)
That is some awesome Title Fairy fodder!

If you didn't already have such a great title, I think she would use this on you!

.


...d'ya mean something like "Make believe dolt"?1


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Apr 15, 2017 00:57 |  #71

Both the new CC versions of Ps and Lr can give quite good results or so I have found. I also use AutoPano Giga. It does a really good job and there are a load of options to adjust each image as you need it after the stitch is done. Lately I'm getting really good results with Lr. I shoot multi row panos with a pan tilt head to minimise distortion, helps but not necessary.


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Apr 15, 2017 01:45 |  #72

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18328334 (external link)
I also use AutoPano Giga. It does a really good job and there are a load of options to adjust each image as you need it after the stitch is done.

That sounds very interesting . . . so if the white balance is all over the place, different in each frame, I can stitch them together first, and THEN adjust the white balance so that they all match?

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Apr 15, 2017 05:59 |  #73

Tom as far as I am aware there is only one program that stitches RAW files, and the is Lightroom CC. When stitching the RAW files though it doesn't have any manual options for laying them out. Joining images in this way is usually done by manipulating layers of RGB pixels, and when you are working with RAW files you don't yet have RGB pixels to work with. I think many people were quite surprised when Adobe released the RAW stitching, and also RAW HDR components in LR CC. Compared to the stitching tool in PS CS5 the RAW stitch in LR CC seems to produce the better automated results, at least for the sets of images I have processed in both programs.

When it comes to the final image, even if you set everything up so that you made the exposures correctly, with the camera perfectly level and the system rotating around the correct nodal point in the lens, which for some lenses might even be outside the physical lens, the fact that you are mapping a series of planes on to either a cylinder or sphere will mean that you will almost certainly end up with a few out of place pixels. You have two ways these will be generated too, the first is the mapping from many planes to the cylinder or sphere, the second is mapping the cylinder or sphere back to the plane that will be used for image display.

The first will happen even if you have 100% overlap so that every point in the image was in at least 2 frames. In this situation you would have every other frame just touching, and the one in between would overlap half each of the other two. When unwrapping back to the plane you face the same issues map makers have faced for centuries, that as far as a spherical projection goes, there is no way to do it that doesn't cause distortion of one kind or another. Using a cylinder projection in the first place can help to a degree in this phase, but may cause more problems in the first stage, which is why it is often best to try both if you can.

These out of place pixels are usually small enough that when viewing the image from normal viewing distances, i.e. the diagonal of the print or longer, they won't be visible to the average viewer. The problem you end up with is that eventually the corrective action that you take to fix one error simply induces an error at another location. Of course at this point you do have the option to take the image and use cloning and other painting techniques to hide those final errors if you really cannot live with them. From the way you talk you make it sound like you really could not live with even the smallest error, and would be inspecting a final very large print with a magnifying glass. This is really an impossible goal.

About the only way that I can think of shooting a panoramic image without the stitching and other errors is to use a 6×17 panoramic camera, or a 6×17 panoramic back on a 10×8 large format camera shooting 120/220 film. This will at least give you a decent sized 3:1 ratio negative or transparency to work from. Although it will solve pretty much all of the issues, it is an expensive option for a few casual panoramas. Saying that it seems that if you want to do good stitched panoramas you will be needing to spend around $500 or so on the correct mounting equipment to interface the camera and lens to the tripod legs.

Practically speaking though, if you are willing to accept the odd small places with a few out of place pixels, that will be all but imperceptible when viewed at normal distances, most of the software that has been suggested will do a very good job of it, even when working from good quality JPEG files, let alone 16 bit TIFF/PSD files. Using RAW files is mostly completely unnecessary from a quality point of view, although the DNG file you get from LR is quite a lot smaller than even an 8 bit TIFF/PSD file. What is more it will do it even with hand held shots, although they of course tend to need quite high levels of overlap.

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Apr 15, 2017 16:28 as a reply to  @ post 18326963 |  #74

2 minutes? Thats kinda slow.




  
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Apr 15, 2017 17:25 |  #75

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18328278 (external link)
Tony, please keep in mind who you are talking to, and my overall ineptitude when it comes to computers.

Today, my boss texted me and asked me to turn the computer off at the end of the day. When 4:00 rolled around, I tried to turn the computer off, and couldn't figure out how the heck to do it. It's a Windows-based computer - different from my iMac. I looked all over the screen and didn't see anything to click on that would turn the computer off. I looked again and again and again, and still couldn't fine what to click on.

My boss had left for an evening engagement where there is no cell service, so I couldn't call or text him to ask how to shut it down. So I had to leave the computer on. It will be on all weekend because I couldn't figure out how the freakin' heck to turn it off.

So, now that you understand that, is it really all that mind-boggling that I have not figured out how to get RAW files into Photoshop?

Plus, you make it sound so difficult - as if I have to use TWO programs to get it done. So I have to use ACR AND Photoshop, just to use PS on a RAW file? That seems overly complicated to me. How would I get the image into ACR? How do I get it from ACR into PS? Does it really remain a RAW file the whole time, or does ACR somehow send it to PS as a jpeg or a TIFF? When I am in PS, I want to be working on a RAW file there - I do not want to work on jpegs. I want it to stay a RAW the whole time, like it does with Lightroom or iPhoto. So much confusion!

.

Hey, Tom, I'm With you, my friend!!!

First off, I'll just say that I've become disabled an dysfunctional due to life/health and "older age" issues, and my computer systems have become pretty dysfunctional ! For one thing, I don't right now have Photoshop installed and/or up and running, although Lightroom is!

So, as far as opening Raw files in ACr and/or Lightroom, it's a pretty cut-and dried operation!

What version of Photoshop do you have installed, and what version of Lightroom? And, what camera body are you using, and is it set to shoot RAW?

Since Photoshop Bridge and Lightroom both function nicely as "browsers, showing both raw files as well as Jpegs, tiffs and PSDs. You can open, view and process those files as long as your versions of PS and LR will support the Raw files from your camera!

Opening those Raw files in either Bridge/ACR or Lightroom is a simple process, just one step at a time!

If you're not clear on this, just say so, and folks with the apps can walk you through , "One step at a time"!!!


Tony
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Is there any image stitching software that is truly easy to use?
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