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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 29 Mar 2016 (Tuesday) 04:21
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-= 80D owners unite! Discuss and post photos

 
Pigpen101
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Apr 14, 2017 10:00 |  #856

Michael456 wrote in post #18327548 (external link)
Wonderful fine detail considering it's ISO 6400!


I did not notice that! I loved the image at first glance, but I had not noticed the ISO. This shows how well the 80D handles ISO.




  
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Larry20d
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Post edited over 2 years ago by Larry20d.
     
Apr 14, 2017 10:41 |  #857

So, I'm not thrilled about the 18-135 lens. Just not sharp enough. What about (for walkaround) the 16-35L and the 70-300L?


5D Mark III, Canon 80D,16-35L, 24-105L, 70-300L IS, 100-400L IS, Nifty 50 1.4, Canon 135L, Canon 85 1.8, Canon EFS 18-135, Canon 55-250, Sigma 150 Macro, EFS-18-135, Sigma 150-600 Contemporary, Extension Tubes, Canon G10

  
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aqgolfer9
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Apr 14, 2017 10:47 |  #858

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18326412 (external link)
I think that perhaps you do not understand what it means when an AF point lights up. .

You seem to think that when the camera lights up AF points, it is telling you which ones have confirmed focus. That has never been my experience at all with Canon DSLRs. In my experience, the AF points that light up are the ones that are active. They light up because they are actively looking for contrast to focus on.

When an AF point is lit up, it means, "hey, i am looking for something in my zone to focus on". . It does NOT mean, "hey, I am now focused on something." . This has been true with my 1D2, my 40D, my 50D, my 5D, and my 1D4. I have no reason to think that the 80D would be any different.

.

I am intrigue by this response as an amateur photographer. A revelation like this begs the question to you well seasoned pros out there- how do you really know when you have locked clean focus on a subject? If this AF points illuminating only represent the camera's effort to focus on that area, is there anyway to really know besides when reviewing on a desktop?




  
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zaijacobs
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Apr 14, 2017 15:14 |  #859


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sjnovakovich
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Apr 14, 2017 19:36 |  #860

Practicing on my dog, and getting my feet wet with LR.


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Steve Novakovich
www.SteveNovakovich.co​m (external link)

  
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little ­ johny
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Apr 14, 2017 19:42 as a reply to  @ post 18327675 |  #861

IMAGE: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3937/33228380963_d3d7afd122_c.jpg

If the sensor is working properly, then yes, using EV compensation will correct the problem.

If the sensor is not working properly, then, no, using EV compensation or manual mode won’t help.

This picture was taken with +1 EV and spot metering. I do understand the complication by using spot metering, but this kind of greyish patch because of the reflection from the bird’s feather, should never happen. I think under the wing should at least showing some dark brown or pitch black. If not, then it should be blown out.

I can use my 80d to shoot a white swan under good light without using -EV compensation and the picture would come out with very little or no blown out. Doing the same thing with my T3i would end up the swan glowing like an UFO.
Thank you all for reading a long winded post.

On the other thread about the black crow, as long as the owner and other readers are happy with the result, there is no point for me to go further.



  
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sandwedge
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Apr 15, 2017 00:15 |  #862

little johny wrote in post #18328165 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE



I can use my 80d to shoot a white swan under good light without using -EV compensation and the picture would come out with very little or no blown out. Doing the same thing with my T3i would end up the swan glowing like an UFO.


Little Johny, I think we'll just have to disagree about the feathers, but I believe you may be on to something with the part that I quoted.

I started with a t2i, then a 50D, 7D, and finally 80D.

I feel that both my 7D and my 80D meter a little differently than my first two cameras. I've noticed that I need to shoot at 1/3 to 2/3 stop brighter than what I used to (and the histogram generally proves this). I haven't shot egrets (same blowout issues as swans) as much as I used to, but I understand metering at minus 2/3 stops for them. I haven't shot any egrets with my 80D.

I guess what I'm saying is that if you think your metering system is off, then you're probably right.

I shoot almost exclusively in manual mode, so I'm doing the exposure compensation myself.


http://www.flickr.com/​photos/63710159@N07/ (external link)
http://www.DougMoon.sm​ugmug.com (external link)
5d mkIV, 80D, 7D, 5D, sx50, Canon EF 500 f/4 USM II, Sigma 150-600C, 100-400L, 70-200L II, 24-105L, 100mm Macro, Sigma 17-70, Sigma 50 1.4, Tamron 28-75, Tokina 11-20, Bower 8mm

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 15, 2017 01:39 |  #863

sandwedge wrote in post #18328309 (external link)
I shoot almost exclusively in manual mode, so I'm doing the exposure compensation myself.

Yeah, metering doesn't really matter much, because we all just override it, anyway. A faulty meter won't really cause us to miss good photos, because we just compensate for it accordingly or shoot manual and forget the damn meter altogether.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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emppu
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Apr 15, 2017 07:43 |  #864

Making ugly ducklings...


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little ­ johny
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Post edited over 2 years ago by little johny.
     
Apr 15, 2017 09:51 as a reply to  @ sandwedge's post |  #865

This picture was taken while my 80D is in for service. It is that kind of under the wing exposure I should expect from my 80D
I use the same lens as the one I shot the goose with. Of course, the lighting is a little different but not that much.The angle where the sun light hits is different too, I believe, just what's fair is fair.

The picture is a 100 % crop or close to with +1 EV spot metering.
I was spoiled by T3i LOL.

IMAGE: https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2830/33921798531_c6b0e41d4d_c.jpg



  
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umgrizz
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Apr 15, 2017 11:31 |  #866

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18326412 (external link)
I think that perhaps you do not understand what it means when an AF point lights up. .

You seem to think that when the camera lights up AF points, it is telling you which ones have confirmed focus. That has never been my experience at all with Canon DSLRs. In my experience, the AF points that light up are the ones that are active. They light up because they are actively looking for contrast to focus on.

When an AF point is lit up, it means, "hey, i am looking for something in my zone to focus on". . It does NOT mean, "hey, I am now focused on something." . This has been true with my 1D2, my 40D, my 50D, my 5D, and my 1D4. I have no reason to think that the 80D would be any different.

.

I am sorry to burst your bubble on the meaning of illuminated focus points but:

From page 95 of the Canon 1D Mk IV manual:
"When focus is achieved, the AF point which achieved focus will flash in red, and the focus confirmation light in the viewfinder will also light."

From page 117 of the Canon 80D manual:
"When focus is achieved, the AF point that achieved focus will be displayed, and the focus indicator in the viewfinder will also light up."

From page 119 of the same manual:
"AF Points Lighting Up in Red
By default, the AF points light up in red when focus is achieved in low-light conditions. In Creative Zone modes, you can set whether to have the AF points light up in red when focus is achieved."

The focus points will also light up when they are being selected but when the shutter button is partially depressed, an illuminated focus point does mean "hey, I am now focused on something."

Curt




  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 15, 2017 15:25 |  #867

umgrizz wrote in post #18328640 (external link)
I am sorry to burst your bubble on the meaning of illuminated focus points but:

My bubble is not burst at all. Things work for me exactly the way I explained, despite what Canon manuals say.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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little ­ johny
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Apr 15, 2017 19:42 |  #868

taking a bird's eye view of a lucky number

IMAGE: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3953/33675999620_4400d65911_c.jpg



  
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little ­ johny
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Apr 15, 2017 19:57 as a reply to  @ post 18324184 |  #869

Have you set your focus display option under the custom function, auto focus and under 14 to select the way you want ?




  
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MatthewK
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Apr 15, 2017 20:16 as a reply to  @ Larry20d's post |  #870

I'd look at the 55-250 STM. From what i've read, it's a hidden gem in the EF-S lineup. Here's the TDP comparison b/w it and the 18-135: http://www.the-digital-picture.com …omp=0&FLIComp=5​&APIComp=1 (external link)

The 70-300L though.. much more expensive, but by all accounts an excellent lens. If you can swing the cost, that's what I'd go with.


well that didn't last long...

  
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