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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Performing Arts Talk 
Thread started 11 Jul 2017 (Tuesday) 02:00
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Photographing dancers on stage

 
Pablo808
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Pablo808.
     
Jul 11, 2017 02:00 |  #1

I have been photographing dancers on stage occasionally with my Canon 5DM3 paired up with a EF24-70 f2.8 IS II:

- Shutter Priority Mode (TV)
- Auto ISO
- Spot Metering f/2.8
- Shutter speed from 1/160 to 1/1000 (depending on stage lighting)
- Single point focus only (using MultiController to move AF point)

I have been 'hand holding' my camera whilst shooting and have been getting decent results.

I observed a Professional utlising a monopod at the same venue, sitting in a similar seat which I use (so distance from camera to stage roughly the same).

I have not used a monopod in this situation.

My understanding that it would:

Prevent 'camera shake' resulting in sharper photos?
If my shutter speed was high enough, wont this make no difference?

What would the Professional settings be? He was shooting with a EF70-200 f/2.8 IS.

Thanks.


5DM3 | EF 24-70L f2.8 II | 50D | EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS | EF 70-200L f4 IS | EF 100 f2.8 Macro | EF 50 f1.8 | 580EX II | CyberSyncs
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RDKirk
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Jul 11, 2017 07:41 |  #2

Yes, the monopod helps quite a bit with that kind of lighting.

The shutter speed will never be high enough not to benefit, particularly considering he was shooting with a telephoto lens. Low-level camera shake can be talking the edge off your sharpness without you actually realizing the cause.

Plus, if the light goes very low, the professional still has to bring back the pictures, so he has to be prepared for as many likely circumstances as possible.




  
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DaviSto
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Post edited over 1 year ago by DaviSto.
     
Jul 11, 2017 07:52 |  #3

RDKirk wrote in post #18399342 (external link)
Yes, the monopod helps quite a bit with that kind of lighting.

The shutter speed will never be high enough not to benefit, particularly considering he was shooting with a telephoto lens. Low-level camera shake can be talking the edge off your sharpness without you actually realizing the cause.

Plus, if the light goes very low, the professional still has to bring back the pictures, so he has to be prepared for as many likely circumstances as possible.

I guess, on a very basic level, using the monopod will also just take a little strain off the arms. He can keep the camera trained on the stage waiting for a particular shot opportunity but rest his arms a little at the same time.


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nathancarter
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Jul 12, 2017 09:37 |  #4

As someone who very often shoots dancers on stage, I'd say that a monopod will hinder more than it'll help. The monopod will make it cumbersome to follow the performer and rapidly adjust composition as the scene changes.

At 70mm, using a lens with decent IS, and a shutter speed of 1/160 and higher, the influence of camera shake will be negligible.


I would speculate that TV and Auto ISO won't do you any favors either, but having not seen your images, I can't say for certain. As long as you're getting the exposure you need - and this almost always means properly exposed skin and faces - then if TV and auto ISO work for you, then have at it.


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Left Handed Brisket.
     
Jul 12, 2017 10:02 |  #5

Pablo808 wrote in post #18399230 (external link)
5DM3 paired up with a EF24-70 f2.8 IS II

uh, what? Assuming that is an error and you are not shooting with IS.

i'm thinking 70mm is probably not long enough and you are having to crop resulting in any flaw being magnified.

IS for panning would definitely help at sub 1/200 shutter @ 70mm

I'd try to keep SS up above 1/250 with or without IS.


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PhotosGuy
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Jul 12, 2017 10:14 |  #6

Pablo808 wrote in post #18399230 (external link)
I have not used a monopod in this situation.
My understanding that it would:

Prevent 'camera shake' resulting in sharper photos?
If my shutter speed was high enough, wont this make no difference?

I could be to help prevent 'camera shake' in the vertical axis. I could be for convenience to help keep the camera aimed at the stage during a long performance. I could be to advertise that he's a Pro. I could be to make the cell phone crowd jealous? ; D

What would the Professional settings be? He was shooting with a EF70-200 f/2.8 IS.
Thanks.

"Professional settings", in my case are Manual Including ISO. That's just me, because if I'm shooting for myself, sometimes I want some motion blur as I find frozen dancers boring. They're moving, so I want a sense of that. And it's fun to see how they come out, like opening Christmas presents in the morning. ; )


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RDKirk
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Jul 12, 2017 18:19 |  #7

nathancarter wrote in post #18400252 (external link)
As someone who very often shoots dancers on stage, I'd say that a monopod will hinder more than it'll help. The monopod will make it cumbersome to follow the performer and rapidly adjust composition as the scene changes..

And yet:

http://l7.alamy.com …-at-a-football-d1wk5f.jpg (external link)


http://c8.alamy.com …-football-game-A6A2R8.jpg (external link)




  
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nathancarter
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Post edited over 1 year ago by nathancarter. (2 edits in all)
     
Jul 13, 2017 09:45 |  #8

Of course. If OP was using a lens that weighed as much as those, then I'd recommend a monopod too. :)


there's also this, no monopod necessary  :p
http://m0.i.pbase.com …TxszeaR.Sigma20​050028.jpg (external link)


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Pablo808
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Jul 16, 2017 04:35 |  #9

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18400271 (external link)
"Professional settings", in my case are Manual Including ISO. That's just me, because if I'm shooting for myself, sometimes I want some motion blur as I find frozen dancers boring. They're moving, so I want a sense of that. And it's fun to see how they come out, like opening Christmas presents in the morning. ; )

Which dials do you use to change the ISO, Shutter speed and Aperture?

I use TV and the dial adjacent to the shutter to change shutter. speed

Thanks for all the comments in this thread. Tons of useful advice. Still lots to learn.


5DM3 | EF 24-70L f2.8 II | 50D | EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS | EF 70-200L f4 IS | EF 100 f2.8 Macro | EF 50 f1.8 | 580EX II | CyberSyncs
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PhotosGuy
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Jul 16, 2017 05:47 |  #10

Pablo808 wrote in post #18403131 (external link)
Which dials do you use to change the ISO, Shutter speed and Aperture?

I use TV and the dial adjacent to the shutter to change shutter. speed

Thanks for all the comments in this thread. Tons of useful advice. Still lots to learn.

I'm not sure what you're asking. I start with M for Manual (next tof your Tv). Then ISO, Shutter speed and Aperture are set one at a time.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
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Pablo808
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Jul 16, 2017 06:13 |  #11

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18403159 (external link)
I'm not sure what you're asking. I start with M for Manual (next tof your Tv). Then ISO, Shutter speed and Aperture are set one at a time.

Apologies, I meant how do you change the (3) settings on the fly during the performance. Which parameter for which dial/button?

Currently if I had to change ISO, shutter and aperture, I'll have to use the Q button and bring it up on the back screen.

I usually shoot TV, so only adjust the Shutter speed (freeze action) using the dial near the shutter button.

I rarely change the aperture (mostly wide open at f/2.8) to keep the shutter speed up and let auto-iso fluctuate (but aim as low iso as possible).

Or you shoot in M, but only change Shutter speed and Aperture on the fly (leave ISO on auto-iso)?

Thanks in advance.


5DM3 | EF 24-70L f2.8 II | 50D | EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS | EF 70-200L f4 IS | EF 100 f2.8 Macro | EF 50 f1.8 | 580EX II | CyberSyncs
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Jul 16, 2017 07:08 |  #12

Currently if I had to change ISO, shutter and aperture, I'll have to use the Q button and bring it up on the back screen.

that is probably the slowest way to do it.

read the manual from cover to cover.

then go back and read it again.

every page, every word.

you will learn a lot.


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PhotosGuy
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Jul 16, 2017 08:06 |  #13

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18403179 (external link)
Currently if I had to change ISO, shutter and aperture, I'll have to use the Q button and bring it up on the back screen.

that is probably the slowest way to do it.

read the manual from cover to cover.

then go back and read it again.

every page, every word.

you will learn a lot.

I agree.

Pablo808 wrote in post #18403166 (external link)
I usually shoot TV, so only adjust the Shutter speed (freeze action) using the dial near the shutter button.

You can use that dial in M, too.

Or you shoot in M, but only change Shutter speed and Aperture on the fly (leave ISO on auto-iso)?

Some do. I don't have Auto-ISO, & usually wouldn't use it if I did. I want ISO under my control, just like aperture & shutter speed.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1600 pixels on any side.

  
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Pablo808
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Pablo808.
     
Jul 16, 2017 18:19 |  #14

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18403196 (external link)
You can use that dial in M, too.
Some do. I don't have Auto-ISO, & usually wouldn't use it if I did. I want ISO under my control, just like aperture & shutter speed.

Thank you. This was what I was after...


5DM3 | EF 24-70L f2.8 II | 50D | EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS | EF 70-200L f4 IS | EF 100 f2.8 Macro | EF 50 f1.8 | 580EX II | CyberSyncs
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Photographing dancers on stage
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