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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Macro 
Thread started 04 Nov 2012 (Sunday) 00:01
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Non insect macros anyone?

 
Sibil
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Aug 16, 2017 07:34 |  #1516

sirbridge wrote in post #18429011 (external link)
I thought that it might have been a snake's skin but would not have liked to get close enough for a macro shot !

I can see that :lol:




  
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Sibil
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Aug 16, 2017 14:34 |  #1517

IMAGE: http://i.imgur.com/hGNEt41.jpg



  
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Ballen ­ Photo
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Aug 16, 2017 16:22 |  #1518

Sibil wrote in post #18429412 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE

Surreal, and neat. :-)


The Captain and crew finally got their stuff together, now if we can only remember where we left it. :cool:

  
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Sibil
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Aug 16, 2017 16:51 |  #1519

Ballen Photo wrote in post #18429528 (external link)
Surreal, and neat. :-)

Thank you.




  
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InPhoto
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Aug 16, 2017 20:38 |  #1520

Sibil wrote in post #18429412 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE

Very nice! How is done?


Some simple photos

  
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Temma
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Post edited 11 months ago by Temma.
     
Aug 16, 2017 21:09 |  #1521

My first fresh stack with Zerene:


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Sibil
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Aug 17, 2017 12:58 |  #1522

InPhoto wrote in post #18429687 (external link)
Very nice! How is done?

Thank you.
It is my first attempt at photographing oil and water, from earlier this week.
Plastic cocktail cup filled with water, olive oil, and a bit of liquid soap.
The cup is sitting on an aluminum foil and is also surrounded by aluminum foil.
Lighting is by using 3 small white LED flashlights which point at the aluminum foil, therefore providing indirect lighting on the cup.
The forth LED flashlight is blue and is pointed at the top of the water surface.
The water is stirred with a chopstick, while pictures are taken with a macro lens, on a tripod.
Hope it is clear.




  
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Ballen ­ Photo
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Aug 17, 2017 14:12 |  #1523

Sibil wrote in post #18430110 (external link)
Thank you.
It is my first attempt at photographing oil and water, from earlier this week.
Plastic cocktail cup filled with water, olive oil, and a bit of liquid soap.
The cup is sitting on an aluminum foil and is also surrounded by aluminum foil.
Lighting is by using 3 small white LED flashlights which point at the aluminum foil, therefore providing indirect lighting on the cup.
The forth LED flashlight is blue and is pointed at the top of the water surface.
The water is stirred with a chopstick, while pictures are taken with a macro lens, on a tripod.
Hope it is clear.

Haha! Clever. :-)


The Captain and crew finally got their stuff together, now if we can only remember where we left it. :cool:

  
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Temma
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Aug 18, 2017 01:07 |  #1524


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Archibald
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Post edited 11 months ago by Archibald.
     
Aug 18, 2017 01:12 |  #1525

What lens and aperture are you using?


Pentax Spotmatic F with 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 135/3.5; Canon digital gear
C&C always welcome.
Picture editing OK

  
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Temma
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Aug 18, 2017 05:27 |  #1526

Archibald wrote in post #18430594 (external link)
What lens and aperture are you using?

If you're talking to me, a 100mm Tokina macro on top of a full set of ProMaster extension tubes, on top of a ProMaster 2x teleconverter. AV, f/8.

This is my third new stack using Zerene since I bought it last night. That was around 300 images. I had to go to bed after I started it, but I doubt it took more than an hour. I suspect it took significantly less. I'm sure it took longer for Elements 15 to batch tweak and export the RAW files to TIFs.

So far, I've been EXTREMELY impressed with Zerene. I would say that it's been my best investment since the macro lens.




  
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Archibald
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Aug 18, 2017 09:53 |  #1527

Temma wrote in post #18430693 (external link)
If you're talking to me, a 100mm Tokina macro on top of a full set of ProMaster extension tubes, on top of a ProMaster 2x teleconverter. AV, f/8.

This is my third new stack using Zerene since I bought it last night. That was around 300 images. I had to go to bed after I started it, but I doubt it took more than an hour. I suspect it took significantly less. I'm sure it took longer for Elements 15 to batch tweak and export the RAW files to TIFs.

So far, I've been EXTREMELY impressed with Zerene. I would say that it's been my best investment since the macro lens.

Thanks for the info! You are getting really close. I have a suggestion: try a bigger aperture. You don't need to stop down for DOF, and a wider aperture will reduce diffraction softening.


Pentax Spotmatic F with 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 135/3.5; Canon digital gear
C&C always welcome.
Picture editing OK

  
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Temma
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Post edited 11 months ago by Temma.
     
Aug 18, 2017 11:54 |  #1528

Archibald wrote in post #18430874 (external link)
Thanks for the info! You are getting really close. I have a suggestion: try a bigger aperture. You don't need to stop down for DOF, and a wider aperture will reduce diffraction softening.

Actually I did. I went down from f/16 down to f/8. Next time I'll go even lower.




  
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Archibald
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Aug 18, 2017 12:50 |  #1529

Temma wrote in post #18430956 (external link)
Actually I did. I went down from f/16 down to f/8. Next time I'll go even lower.

As a rule of thumb, I aim for an effective aperture of around 22 when shooting macro, single shots. This is for a crop frame camera. With full frame you could go a stop narrower. What you select depends on balancing DOF with diffraction, so you might select a different aperture, but IMO f/22 (effective) is a good starting point.

When doing stacks, there is the opportunity to go to a wider aperture for more resolution.

The equation for effective aperture is Effective_F = Marked_F x (1 + Magnification).

What was your magnification? Around 3x? If so, your effective aperture would have been 8*4 = 32, quite small. Maybe try a marked aperture of f/4 and compare.


Pentax Spotmatic F with 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 135/3.5; Canon digital gear
C&C always welcome.
Picture editing OK

  
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Temma
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Aug 18, 2017 17:21 |  #1530

Archibald wrote in post #18431005 (external link)
As a rule of thumb, I aim for an effective aperture of around 22 when shooting macro, single shots. This is for a crop frame camera. With full frame you could go a stop narrower. What you select depends on balancing DOF with diffraction, so you might select a different aperture, but IMO f/22 (effective) is a good starting point.

When doing stacks, there is the opportunity to go to a wider aperture for more resolution.

The equation for effective aperture is Effective_F = Marked_F x (1 + Magnification).

What was your magnification? Around 3x? If so, your effective aperture would have been 8*4 = 32, quite small. Maybe try a marked aperture of f/4 and compare.

What's a simple way to calculate magnification?




  
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Non insect macros anyone?
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