The best results you can get would be with manual mode, IMO. This way you control the exposure exactly. Trying to get a crisp detailed shot while also having the camera try to automate things is too much work. It is quite easy to dial in the exposure right out of the gate in manual, then you only have to worry about framing and focus for the shot, nothing else gets in the way. I go 100% manual for moon shots, with live view and 5x zoom, sometimes 10x.
The same comments here apply as they did on the other thread:
- Get your shutter speeds up, to minimally 1/<focal length> if not a bit faster
- Manual mode
- Don't be afraid of higher ISO levels
- Live view is very helpful, especially with 5x/10x and manual focus, AF can cause issues
- Tripod if you are not steady
- Don't shoot full moon as crater detail is better at the lesser phases
- Wait for very clear nights, winter is a great time to shoot the moon, as cold will clear the air usually
- Shoot the moon directly overhead if possible, the closer to the horizon, more of the atmosphere plays a part in the image. Now for artistic shots, more landscape in nature, then horizon-based moon shots are very nice, but zoomed in for crater detail, the less atmosphere you have in the way, the better.
- The better the lens, the better the result, not all 300mm on all telephoto lenses are created equal. A 75-300 vs a 70-300L at 300mm will show 2 different results.
Once you master this, you can start to stack up teleconverters...