Sony Lounge Thread MKIII (All Sony cameras welcome)

digital_AM wrote in post #18465303
I think I'm pretty done with On1. They are coming out with the RAW 2018 version and it's another $80 to upgrade. RAW 2017 is ok but it had many issues when it was released. I don't really use it that often anyway. I think I'll just stick with LR, PS, and Nik. I also have Aurora 2018 and Photomatix for blending exposures. I'm still not quite sold on Aurora 2018. I'm seeing too many artifacts when processing my images with it.

Same, I preorder ON1 but I've literally used it maybe 3-4 times. $80 for a yearly upgrade seems like much. Especially since for the first 3-4 months there were so many bugs with it and it didn't get solid for a few months into the life.

TMaG82 wrote in post #18465818
Same, I preorder ON1 but I've literally used it maybe 3-4 times. $80 for a yearly upgrade seems like much. Especially since for the first 3-4 months there were so many bugs with it and it didn't get solid for a few months into the life.

+1000

Check out this thread with other unhappy loyal customers:

https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=18465781

TRhoads wrote in post #18465790
so, explain to me how you set the color balance with it...if there is one thing I struggle with the most, indoors...its color balance...and I am all for finding something that will help fix that ...

The Lumu Light meter can measure color for ambient light so for ambient light i'm going to be using the lumu from now on. I was using an expodisc before the lumu and it also works for strobes. it's like a gray card except you attach it to your lens.

With strobe though i know already what kelvin(around 5800K outdoor and about 5600k in studio) i should be at so I'm not measuring it anymore.

On1 is Pathetic to use . Slow like crazy impossible to use.
Having said, all negative stuffs, there are something to it that pushes me to give second, third ..N chances. Being small players extremely hard to compete big guys (Adobe). However the existence of small players pushes big guys hard too.
Nik ?? Who is a Nik ? Must be resting in peace in google graveyard.

Few stuffs I like Idea, only if they can implement better (faster). The ease of use is there, only their speed sucks (to process my 40MB files)
* Browser based model Vs Catalog/Session/Import etc..
* Perfect Erasure
* Perfect Resize (Genuine Fractals), best in class (I believe they have Patent on this)
* Perfect Framing

Enough Talk: Here is one example of Perfect Erasure. OneOne Vs CaptureOne.
On-1: Some Bird dropping on "Lady in Wind" Erased .

IMAGE LINK: http://pradipkar.zenfo​lio.com/p642451595/e91​d07e29

IMAGE LINK: http://pradipkar.zenfo​lio.com/p642451595/e91​d08c83

Charlie wrote in post #18465810
it may not solve your problems, but you can start off with the AWB to have certain biases, or even a gray card and adjust on scene. Sony white balance, even in custom mode, will have a bias, so you can shoot the grey card to capture custom 1 for instance, then dial in the bias, I tend to do red and blue's to counter the yellow and greens typical on sony, and it gets me to a nice starting point. Once I get balance right, I can fine tune skins in C1 via skin color picker

I ended up shooting AWB on my last project, the color casts in the rooms were tough to get a handle on, but now that I am in the editing phase...its a challenge. I tried using my EXPOSDISC on some of the rooms, and am not sure it helped all that much...likely operator error. It seemed like the Exposdisc always looked the same in every room, even when the light sources were different...

vinmunoz wrote in post #18465867
The Lumu Light meter can measure color for ambient light so for ambient light i'm going to be using the lumu from now on. I was using an expodisc before the lumu and it also works for strobes. it's like a gray card except you attach it to your lens.

With strobe though i know already what kelvin(around 5800K outdoor and about 5600k in studio) i should be at so I'm not measuring it anymore.

I might have to look into getting one...

digital_AM wrote in post #18465795
Travis, I'm not sure if this will help but I recently learned of a technique from Blake Rudis on fixing color casts. I used the technique on the last two images and it worked well. The tree house image if you remember had strong yellow and magenta hues but I was able to balance the color out using the technique. I haven't tried this on an indoor architecture image yet.

thanks for sharing this. it works but i made my own tweak. I tried what he's doing for several files and i notice some blues are standing out so with the hue and sat, i desat the blue to -40 and lightness to 100

With the Master i just do +40 and -20 on lightness.

I created an action for it. if you're interested you can download it below.

https://www.dropbox.co​m …0/VMWhiteBalanc​e.atn?dl=0

vinmunoz wrote in post #18465903
thanks for sharing this. it works but i made my own tweak. I tried what he's doing for several files and i notice some blues are standing out so with the hue and sat, i desat the blue to -40 and lightness to 100

With the Master i just do +40 and -20 on lightness.

I created an action for it. if you're interested you can download it below.

https://www.dropbox.co​m …0/VMWhiteBalanc​e.atn?dl=0

You're welcome and thanks Vinz. Were you using it on portraits?

digital_AM wrote in post #18465906
You're welcome and thanks Vinz. Were you using it on portraits?

i tried in portrait and it works too.

i tweak it more. here

P.S. new update
https://www.dropbox.co​m …3/VMWhiteBalanc​e.atn?dl=0

I tried it on one of my images from my shoot that I have access to here...it had some effect, but not a lot...

TRhoads wrote in post #18465897
I ended up shooting AWB on my last project, the color casts in the rooms were tough to get a handle on, but now that I am in the editing phase...its a challenge. I tried using my EXPOSDISC on some of the rooms, and am not sure it helped all that much...likely operator error. It seemed like the Exposdisc always looked the same in every room, even when the light sources were different...

I might have to look into getting one...

You pointing the expodisc at the light source right?

in LR or C1, I generally steer towards blue and pink for tint. For instance, my home lights are rated 3000K, however my preset is more blue and pink tint. Due to different color lights, my presets may not even work everywhere in the house, but to get an idea what the camera is producing, I have some attached images. My home preset is a little too red and blue, but I like it as a starting point better than SOOC.

this wont solve WB issues, but I prefer them as my baseline, it gets me closer quicker.

i think if your image's white balance is already close, you won't see a huge difference.

i updated the link above

Charlie, how do you do that with multiple light sources? I tried, mixed results.

New Voightlander Nokton 40mm f1.2 is looking promising.

https://news.mapcamera​.com/KASYAPA.php?itemi​d=31056

vinmunoz wrote in post #18465921
i tried in portrait and it works too.

i tweak it more. here

P.S. new update
https://www.dropbox.co​m …3/VMWhiteBalanc​e.atn?dl=0

Thanks! This does a nice job and I agree that if your WB is relatively close, you won't see a big difference.

TRhoads wrote in post #18466082
Charlie, how do you do that with multiple light sources? I tried, mixed results.

you can get closer if you use a gray card, then customize for that given custom setting.

I've used this customization to get me in the ballpark when doing video, since AWB in video is MUCH more difficult to correct.

SOOC gray card + blue pink bias, no raw adjustments.

if you're shooting somewhere with mixed lighting like fluorescent and LED mixture, then it will be much more difficult to fix. Of course another option is simply to use flash and you'll get near perfect WB.