Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18467737
I am really looking forward to ordering a roll of Translum. I had an old roll of frosted Mylar that I have used from time to time but it was smallish and kind of yellowed.
Been setting up a new studio space and am very close to having it ready, hopefully this weekend.
Any tips on getting the ungelled areas to be black? How much space between subject and background? Assuming flagging main light is the biggest trick?
Thanks. It was her first shoot ever.
No flags. As I recall, the Translum was maybe 3 or 4 feet behind the model. I hung the Translum in front of the background so that took space. The backlit strobe was towards the left of model falling off to the right as you can see. I metered the Translum brightest was I think f4 no more than 5.6. Feathering Translum rocks!!
Main light cheetahstand QRB 48” was 45 degree up and 45 side from model about 2 feet from her face. Fully difused no grid. I think the Main was at most f8 at the model.
Simple light falloff darkened the Translum. That and the Main was at a 45 to the Translum helped minimize spill. Falloff is the secret here. 5 feet from Main light is 5 stops down roughly.
I use a flash meter on everything. Also had a large black reflector to the right of the model. Along the side of the studio to control stray light. Flash meters help you see the falloff before the shot. Just takes a few seconds and a few pops of the flash. Since the Sekonic/Elinchrom flash meter can control all the strobes, it’s the right time to check and adjust.
Also using Translum as a Main light is great. You can feather the light onto the Translum and get a soft smooth buttery shadow transition on a face/subject you simply can’t get any other way. It’s amazing.
Really, I live by f-stops. My meter uses it, the camera is all about stops (aperture, shutter speed, ISO is all in stops) so I may as well too.