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Continuing to attempt to find the perfect balance..
I want to enhance but I don't want the pebbled skin look or manaquien (I'm sure I misspelled that ) look..

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/21ow​esb

rantercsr wrote in post #18495090
Continuing to attempt to find the perfect balance..
I want to enhance but I don't want the pebbled skin look or manaquien (I'm sure I misspelled that ) look..

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/21ow​esb DSCF4864-Edit-2 by Randall Herrera, on Flickr

Check out Phlearn and Piximperfect on YouTube. They are really good at breaking down retouching.

My nieces with the 35/1.4

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/YSs8​G3

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Zk6n​ix

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18494570
At a 1/4 the price of a 500Ws B1 I'm not going to complain too much about the power of the AD600. I don't know how much output any of the lights I have output, the AD600 is a lot & I'd imaging the AD-H1200 would be much more. What mono gives you 1200Ws without a generator?

Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed (1100) and the new Ranger ELB1200. Broncolor has one, too, that is in the same range.

Prophoto B1 and AD600 are about the same power level, give or take. I haven't tested them side by side with the same modifier (the closest to a reasonable test as far as I can figure it).

The B1 has, in essence, a built-in reflector and a somewhat restricted angle. The Godox ad360, in contrast, has a great bare bulb design, which gives you more access to the light in a modifier, allowing it to punch above its weight. It also gives it the ability to use all its power in a bare-bulb configuration. The B1 requires a diffuser to use it as a bare bulb, which costs power. The B1 design is about better protection and has a nice grid set system (compact, doesn't require an extra reflector, works well). There are many other details about the B1 that make the system nice to work with. In short, they all have trade-offs.

All other things being equal (in strobes, they rarely are), a unit with double the WS will have about one stop more power. So 400, 500 and 600 are in a similar ballpark. 200, 250, 300 likewise are similar and about a stop less. 1000-1200 is similar and a stop more. Give or take.

I have an AD360, the Adorama branded version, the streaklight 360. I love it. I had thought about getting a Rovelight 600. I wish I had gotten one last month when they dipped down to $399, but honestly I haven't needed that much power, and I've never used HSS, even when I had Canon. Now, I can get another streaklight 360 (without the battery pack) for around $160, which I think is a pretty good deal. I don't know how cumbersome it would be trying to run 2 streaklights off 1 power pack, especially if it's a long power cable.

Osa713 wrote in post #18495098
Check out Phlearn and Piximperfect on YouTube. They are really good at breaking down retouching.

Yes I've watched both.. and both have been very helpful.
But they make it look so easy and then I do it and not quite the same haha..
I'll keep practicing

Right? Something that takes them 5 minutes to do takes me 5 hours and then doesn't quite look like what they came out with.

It does take a lot of patience, I look back at my “retouching” from even a year ago and I cringe.

Learning additional retouching techniques gives me more perspective. Lately I have been treating it as accuiring new gear, free gear at that.

I ment I never measured the actual light output of any of the strobes rather than not getting the power consumption thing. I missed the news about that ELB completely, that's pretty smart for a portable set up in one light, having been on the receiving end of having to shoulder a power pack about on location ( as assistant ) I never look forward to doing it again.

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18495063
I have the 21mm as well as the 12mm f2, and 85mm f1.4. I love all 3 lenses, absolutely stellar results.

The 12mm is by far my most used Samyang lens. It's really small, really light, and really sharp. The 21mm is all 3 as well (though a little longer/bigger than the 12mm), but it gets a little softer when focused closer to infinity wide open, stopped down a bit and it's sharp at all distances to my eyes. The 85mm is in Canon mount, because (like the 10mm and 16mm you listed) it's a DSLR designed lens so even in Fuji mount, it's the same size, so I just kept my Canon version and adapted it.

I've been thinking about getting the 50mm, but I might just spring for the XF 56mm instead, the low light AF ability would be useful in the events I shoot... I'm good at MF, but under stress I'm not sure I want to mess around with f1.2 at 50mm

If you check out the photo pages for the lenses you're interested in on Flickr you can find a huge pool of images and discussions for each. Surprisingly one of my images remains the header shot for the 21mm

Thanks,

I'm really thinking of the potential move at this point now that I know my lighting works and a single R2 controller enabled everything else I have/need. I'm currently interested in the Fuji 23mm F1.4, Fuji 56mm F1.2 and Fuji 10-24 F4. If it were just one camera, ever, I would include a pancake lens of some kind (probably the 18mm F2) but having the X100S, I don't feel the need to get another lens to do that job (small, light profile, nothing more). But, I don't like the cost of these, even used, especially since they're not stabilized (the primes at least). I really am favoring MF lately, even in good light, just because it feels more natural, and having focus peaking is something I've not had, so it makes it so easy compared to what I was using before (precision super matte focus screens, I was able to do fine at F1.4 even, but I had some misses now and then too); with focus peaking I'm hitting it pretty much all the time and manual feels more intuitive to me when composing and not having to think about focus point placement, etc. So I started looking at alternative glass and the 12, 21 and 50 from Samyang/Rokinon were there at very good prices (even new prices). I of course went through the pools on flickr and stuff, just to see and everything looked in order. But display images are often someone's best image, and not just the average of what they manage in a shoot, and I tend to aim for what the bad situations are, as I know good situations and perfect focus and perfect everything will come out great, but I'm more concerned with the minimum or how bad it would be (so, if soft wide open, hard to focus with focus peaking, bad focus throw, other things, etc).

I think my main issue is, if I went that route, I also would be stuck with those lenses as the 2nd hand market for them is a lot slimmer than it would be for an AF Fuji lens. Definitely don't care to pick up $1k of lenses that are basically mine forever, if I find I don't like something after a few months or a year or more and change it up (such as eventually getting Fuji lenses maybe). I think I could live with the 12mm because AF doesn't even enter my mind when I'm ultrawide. It would mainly be being stuck with the 21mm and the 50mm in the Fuji mount and how hard it would be to move them later if my tastes changed.

I suppose there is the thought of using an adapter and just getting a Canon version of something like the Samyang 24mm F1.4 (instead of the 21mm F1.4) and the 50mm F1.4 or any other similar lens, and adapt it and even do the same with the 12mm or a 16mm and then adapt them. But, I also really don't like the idea of the adapter size, larger lenses, etc, which starts to defeat a lot of the purpose of wanting a smaller kit with smaller lenses and just have significantly easy MF (and if applicable, eventually, good AF with F1.2 and F1.4 without ever needing MFA again). And of course, I have my vintage glass to use too adapted (which is exciting with focus peaking).

I'm also curious about speed boosters (or basically focal reducers) for Fuji. I'd be very curious about it with the 80~100mm lenses, and some of the 35mm lenses maybe.

Very best,

A little psyched. On eBay, someone was selling a lightly used leather Ona “Bowery” camera bag for $150 last week. The guy had zero feedback, and in fact, the eBay account had been created earlier this month. So I went into it thinking I was going to get scammed (especially considering the pics of the bag that were posted), and have to go through eBay to get my money back. The bag arrived today...

Now you can see why I am psyched . I got exactly what was pictured, and not what was listed as the bag model.

Score!

https://www.onabags.co​m …html?color=anti​que-cognac

Osa713 wrote in post #18495098
Check out Phlearn and Piximperfect on YouTube. They are really good at breaking down retouching.

Thanks. I will check them out. Need to learn pp.

Exactly!

bobbyz wrote in post #18495803
Thanks. I will check them out. Need to learn pp.

get ready for the eye brows .. awesome but distracting ..

jokes aside .. piximperfect has become , my favorite for this