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FORUMS General Gear Talk Changing Camera Brands 
Thread started 15 Nov 2017 (Wednesday) 09:51
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Fuji vs Sony vs Olympus

 
kma16
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Nov 15, 2017 09:51 |  #1

I'm currently shooting with an Olympus em10, mainly for personal work, portraits, event photography. I'm thinking of upgrading, would you suggest a complete switch and going with the Fuji xt2, sony a7 or is there a better upgrade while sticking with olympus?




  
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Charlie
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Nov 15, 2017 10:29 |  #2

it really just depends on your budget.

X-T2 16-55 f2.8 + 50-150 f2.8 = mucho dinero
An A7ii + 24-70GM + 70-200GM = mucho mucho dinero

My passion is in landscapes, so I like shooting a high MP camera, however, it's also superb for portraits.

There are subtle differences, buy what you can afford ;-)a


Sony A7rii/A7riii - FE 12-24/4 - FE 24-240 - FE 35/2.8 - SY 35/1.4 AF - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - EF 135/1.8 Art - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Astro Rok 14/2.8 - Tamron 28-75/2.8 RXD, 70-200/2.8 VC

  
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gremlin75
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Nov 15, 2017 11:24 |  #3

kma16 wrote in post #18497035 (external link)
I'm thinking of upgrading, would you suggest a complete switch and going with the Fuji xt2, sony a7 or is there a better upgrade while sticking with olympus?

What is the em10 not doing that you want?

Is it something that upgrading to a newer or different Olympus body will give you? Is it something that can be fixed with higher end glass?

So yeah, I can suggest a complete switch to one system or another all day long. However it didn't mean that it's a good suggestion since we don't know what's wrong with your current system it!




  
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Nov 15, 2017 12:49 |  #4

gremlin75 wrote in post #18497115 (external link)
What is the em10 not doing that you want?

Is it something that upgrading to a newer or different Olympus body will give you? Is it something that can be fixed with higher end glass?

So yeah, I can suggest a complete switch to one system or another all day long. However it didn't mean that it's a good suggestion since we don't know what's wrong with your current system it!

Preach...


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kma16
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Nov 15, 2017 13:06 as a reply to  @ gremlin75's post |  #5

very true. just looking for better bokeh, fast shutter for quick moving kids, low light capabilities, i am coming from a dslr so maybe you are right and should look into better glass.




  
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gremlin75
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Nov 15, 2017 14:20 |  #6

kma16 wrote in post #18497210 (external link)
very true. just looking for better bokeh, fast shutter for quick moving kids, low light capabilities, i am coming from a dslr so maybe you are right and should look into better glass.

What glass do you currently have?

By "better bokeh" do you mean better quality of the out if focus areas or just more more blur in the out of focus areas?

I'm going to guess that you mean more blur. If that is the case then larger apertures, longer focal lengths, less distance between you and your subject, and more distance between your subject and the background can all give you more background blur.

For faster shutter speeds your you'll need larger apertures to let in more light. If you're currently using something like the 14-42mm f3.5-5.6 then switching to the 12-40mm f2.8 will give you two stops of light on the long end (and also decreasing your depth of field) increasing your SS from 1/60 at f5.6 to 1/250 at f2.8 (@40mm). But those two stops of light will cost you an extra $700.

Primes normally come with even larger apertures so the increase in SS and decrease in DOF will be even greater (at the same focal length)




  
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rantercsr
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Nov 15, 2017 14:58 |  #7

Omd em1 markii will give you better AF.
if you want to stay Olympus .. however its not cheap (for a m4/3)
i'm not sure how it stacks up against your current Olympus in low light .. but at the end of the day its still a m4/3 sensor and I believe at the moment ISO 3200 is usable but kind of pushing the word "usable"
i'm not totally familiar with Olympus glass but I know theres a 45mm f1.7(or 8) that a lot of m4/3 users love for its bokeh , sharpness and cost... and of course they've got there m.zuiko pro glass that are pretty impressive .. quality build and image..

I think Olympus can work for all of what you mentioned you wanted ,, low light would be the challenge.

unless you just want to switch systems


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kf095
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Post edited 8 months ago by kf095. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 04, 2017 21:50 |  #8

4/3 sensor for portraits and events, as assignment... I'm impressed! I chicked out then first OM-D came...

"just looking for better bokeh, fast shutter for quick moving kids, low light capabilities, i am coming from a dslr so maybe you are right and should look into better glass".

First, are the kids from the Incredibles for real? I took kids photos for years. And still taking... None of them are fast moving, even 28 YO. :)

Low light capabilities is very simple, the bigger sensor is the less noise on higher ISO is. And it has to be as modern as possible. If possible :)
I recently compared first 6D and first A7 (they are near at the price and still available new). 6D is the winner from ISO6400. I didn't check latest Sony sensors, because their price is behind of reasonable for me and I'm not impressed with Sony lenses and for Sony lenses at all.

Where are very well established, patriarh photographers who switched to Fuji and finding it good enough. And Fuji makes great lenses, IMO, as well. Like 35 1.4. I spend days looking at images taken with this lens.

I would suggest Fuji X Pro 2. It has not so old sensor and it has optical viewfinder in the corner. This is what I like with kids, events or just to guff around. My face and my eye are open. With VF in the middle I'm limited and with EVF is is even more distracting with fast moving things. I have to focus on the screen first to see if camera is actually focusing :)

Sorry to have some fun here. But it is real blessing to be able to use small camera and lenses for assignments. And it is cool.


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Feb 18, 2018 08:14 |  #9

I keep going around in circles about switching options, consolidating down to one brand, etc.

One thing I continue coming back to is how much it will cost to do anything drastic concerning my lineup and that is what continues to keep me in a joint Canon/Olympus environment. That said, Fuji and Sony are the two I’ve looked at the most, but there are tradeoffs with everything so it’s just not an easy decision. I would recommend renting/trying out the E-M1 II and 17/25/45 f1.2 PRO lenses (or start with the f1.8 premium line) for the types of photography you outlined before completely switching brands.


Canon: 5D Mark IV, 16-35 f4L IS, 24-70 f2.8L II, 70-200 f2.8L IS II, 100-400 f4.5-5.6L IS II, 100 f2.8L IS Macro, 2X III, 1.4X III, 580EX II, 430EX | mu43: Olympus OMD EM-1, 17 f1.8, 45 f1.8, 75 f1.8, 12-40 f2.8 PRO, 40-150 f2.8 PRO, MC-14
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Feb 18, 2018 14:08 |  #10

If you are looking for great bokeh, consider non 4/3 lens used with a Speedbooster adapter. I have a Canon EF 85mm F1.8 used with a Metabones speedbooster on my Oly EM1 giving an effective F stop of 1.0. Sharpness and bokeh are unreal with it wide open. You can also get a adapter for older Canon FD mechanical lenses which were quite good optically and very inexpensive used nowadays. One of the main reasons I bought into the 4/3 system was because you can use so many different lenses from other makers with it, many of which I already have.


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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Post edited 5 months ago by Two Hot Shoes.
     
Feb 18, 2018 14:47 |  #11

bsmotril wrote in post #18566842 (external link)
If you are looking for great bokeh, consider non 4/3 lens used with a Speedbooster adapter. I have a Canon EF 85mm F1.8 used with a Metabones speedbooster on my Oly EM1 giving an effective F stop of 1.0.

I think you're a little out on your maths. The Metabones Speedbooster can give a maximum of 0.64x (depends on the variant of speed booster you buy) add in your 2x crop factor from your camera sensor and you have an effective crop of 1.28x. That will turn your 85mm F/1.8 into an effective 109mm F/2.3. Not an F/1.

That is based on the Speedbooster XL if you have the older ultra then you have an effective 1.4x so your 85mm F/1.8 will be at 119mm F/2.52


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Post edited 5 months ago by Spacemunkie. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 18, 2018 18:50 as a reply to  @ Two Hot Shoes's post |  #12

That's not right. A Speedbooster Ultra will increase max aperture by a full stop - lenses get faster, not slower!

So f1.8 becomes f1.3. The Speedbooster focuses more light on to the sensor, not less ;)


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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Feb 18, 2018 19:00 as a reply to  @ Spacemunkie's post |  #13

You have to remember that the m4/3 sensor already has a 2x crop. All the speed booster is doing is reducing that crop. The 85/1.8 when on the 4/3 camera is effectually a 170mm f/3.5. The speed booster added into the mix gains back 0.64x at best.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. Pelican, Ona, ThinkTank, Matthews Grip, Elinchrom
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Spacemunkie
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Feb 18, 2018 19:26 |  #14

An 85mm 1.8 lens on an M4/3 camera is an 85mm 1.8 lens with a FOV of 170mm. The lens aperture (and therefore light gathering capability) doesn't change. You're talking purely about DOF equivalence.

The light gathering capability of any lens you put on a speed booster increases by a stop. So yes, you do get an f1.3 lens!


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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Feb 19, 2018 03:27 as a reply to  @ Spacemunkie's post |  #15

If you were to follow the conversation you would see that the speedbooster part was about depth of field not about light gathering capabilities. So not you don't get an f/1.3 lens as we are talking about DOF. IF the conversation was about light gathering ability you might have a more valid point but as it's not.....

bsmotril wrote in post #18566842 (external link)
If you are looking for great bokeh, consider non 4/3 lens used with a Speedbooster adapter. I have a Canon EF 85mm F1.8 used with a Metabones speedbooster on my Oly EM1 giving an effective F stop of 1.0.


Anyway light gathering capabilities are not measured in F numbers they are given as T stops. :rolleyes:


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. Pelican, Ona, ThinkTank, Matthews Grip, Elinchrom
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Fuji vs Sony vs Olympus
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