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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Macro Talk 
Thread started 14 Dec 2017 (Thursday) 15:40
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Stacking with the Canon 60mm lens

 
davholla
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Dec 14, 2017 15:40 |  #1

Has anyone done this what aperture would you suggest?




  
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MalVeauX
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Dec 14, 2017 15:56 |  #2

F8 or F11 would be a good starting point. Since you're stacking you don't have to stop down to gain minimal DOF increases. Instead, F8~F11 is good for maintaining sharpness (diffraction issues at F22 and smaller). You could even go wider with F5.6 or something. Depends on your subject. Point is, avoid F16~F22 or smaller. You can go wider and simply stack for DOF.

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Dalantech
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Post edited 7 months ago by Dalantech.
     
Dec 15, 2017 02:00 |  #3

Depending on what you're shooting you don't even need to stack. The EF-60mm, at minimum focusing distance, loses a lot of focal length -so much that it only takes 37mm of extension to get to 2x. Find a magic angle (one that makes the most out of the depth of field) and you can stop the lens down to F11 and get a lot of detail...

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1550/24557874025_711cc81cc2_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Dq6w​n8  (external link) Feeding Honeybee (external link) by John Kimbler (external link), on Flickr

Tech Specs: Canon 70D (F11, 1/125, ISO 200) + a Canon EF-S 60mm macro lens with 37mm of extension + a diffused MT-24EX (flash head "A" set as the key and "B" as the fill, with the key on a Kaiser flash shoes). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. The camera is set to expose for the natural light in the background but the sun went behind the clouds. The flash was in E-TTL mode (-1/3 FEC) and used to expose the subject. Shading the subject allowed me to use the flash to freeze motion.

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davholla
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Dec 15, 2017 04:29 |  #4

Dalantech wrote in post #18518287 (external link)
Depending on what you're shooting you don't even need to stack.

Nice photo, one which would I guess would almost be impossible to stack.
I will have to try f11 with my lens, saying that I find that quite a lot of settings look good.

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4590/24171020347_a05a2fba83_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CPUN​f8  (external link) ButterflyIMG_6212 (external link) by davholla2002 (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/25028629498_9ee4ccb62e_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/E8Gg​yN  (external link) Wasp IMG_7544 (external link) by davholla2002 (external link), on Flickr

We could say that nothing is needed, but I have a stationary subject - lots of stick insects which rest on bark so why not try to get something amazing. Whether I can or not is another matter.



  
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Dalantech
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Dec 15, 2017 05:42 as a reply to  @ davholla's post |  #5

Cool. But, IMHO, if you work on your lighting you'll see a bigger improvement in your images. You're losing a lot of detail because your flash isn't diffused very well.


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davholla
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Dec 15, 2017 10:08 |  #6

Dalantech wrote in post #18518338 (external link)
Cool. But, IMHO, if you work on your lighting you'll see a bigger improvement in your images. You're losing a lot of detail because your flash isn't diffused very well.

Yes probably right. I find it quite tricky with my 60mm.* These were taken with the camera's own flash - not ideal.
If I use an external flash like this attached to my camera
https://www.amazon.co.​uk …_detailpage?ie=​UTF8&psc=1 (external link)
It is worse than nothing as it does not light the right place.
I have tried a flash like this off camera and it seems the same as before and I don't really want to use this as it is going to get dropped and broken in the cloud forest in Colombia.

I have tried - and my lovely wife made me a pringles tube one but it did not make any difference.
I might try a table tennis ball as a diffuser in front of the pop up flash.

*I wouldn't say it is much easier with my 65mm the close distances that it needs to be able to work at make it really hard - although you don't use it at 5.0x do you.

I don't really want to get the MT-24 too expensive and looks a bit tricky to use.

Any clever ideas from anyone would be welcomed.




  
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Dalantech
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Dec 15, 2017 11:29 |  #7

davholla wrote in post #18518481 (external link)
*I wouldn't say it is much easier with my 65mm the close distances that it needs to be able to work at make it really hard - although you don't use it at 5.0x do you.

All single frames (F11 or higher) and all 5x:

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/27465711082_db78eca2fd_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/HR3X​1N  (external link) European Wool Carder Bee VII (external link) by John Kimbler (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/617/22721364551_359c334d04_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ABNW​5F  (external link) Stomorhina Lunata at 5x (external link) by John Kimbler (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8725/17102731660_864bbdbbac_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/s4iY​gN  (external link) Teddy (external link) by John Kimbler (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6217/6322416191_73eaaf273a_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/aCG3​4H  (external link) Hungry Moth at 5x (external link) by John Kimbler (external link), on Flickr

The only hard part about shooting at 5x, other than the razor thin depth, is finding a composition that works -the framing is really tight.

davholla wrote in post #18518481 (external link)
I don't really want to get the MT-24 too expensive and looks a bit tricky to use.

The only tricky part about the MT-24/MT-26 is diffusing it. Surprisingly easy to use if you can diffuse it.


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Stacking with the Canon 60mm lens
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