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Thread started 06 Jan 2013 (Sunday) 14:29
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EverydayGetaway
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Feb 17, 2018 17:33 |  #6631

X-Pro2 + 7artisans 25mm

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Fuji X-Pro2 // Fuji X-T1 // Fuji X-100T // XF 18mm f2 // XF 35mm f1.4 // XF 60mm f2.4 // Rokinon 12mm f2 // Rokinon 21mm f1.4 // XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 // XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 // Rokinon 85mm f1.4 // Zhonghi Lensturbo ii // Various adapted MF lenses
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Feb 17, 2018 17:34 as a reply to  @ post 18566258 |  #6632

Yes, the 120D by all reports is great light & they do a 300D now as well. I prefer that to a panel too.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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PLLphotography
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Feb 17, 2018 19:17 |  #6633

Not sure what my son was doing lol. Quick snapshot while we were waiting for a place to open this morning in the city.

X-Pro 2 + 23/1.4. Quick edit in Lightroom mobile.


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Phillip - pllphotography.com (external link) | Instagram (external link) | Donate to POTN | Fuji X Gear (X-H1, X-Pro2, X-T1, 23/1.4, 35/2, 56/1.2, 50-140/2.8)

  
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Post edited 4 months ago by Two Hot Shoes. (4 edits in all)
     
Feb 18, 2018 14:25 |  #6634

Eterna/Cinema profile Vs Classic Chrome.

Same shot with colour profile added, see how flat the Eterna one looks

Classic Chrome:

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Eterna/Cinema:

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4669/39447518905_7c3fff1e53_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/236Q​R3i  (external link) X-H1-EC (external link) by Kim Farrelly (external link), on Flickr

Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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bobbyz
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Feb 18, 2018 20:54 |  #6635

rantercsr wrote in post #18565860 (external link)
ordered a cable for tethering..

anybody shoot tethered ?(portraits)

my goal for portrait sessions is to slow down... i mean really slow down

i'm comfortable with the level of progress i'm making in certain areas with portrait photography

however .. I'm struggling with paying attention to detail..
shirts twisted.. bottom of pants tucked in a weird way , chopped off limbs in weird ways etc..

i'm thinking for my next portrait session i want to shoot atleast a portion of it , on a tripod and tethered

get 10 Solid ,100% in focus ,lighting on point , perfectly posed , shots.. before we move on to a more "freestyle" tpe shoot ( if at all)

..

hoping to test out the 16--55 for portraits in the next week or 2

I need to do tethered shooting for my classes in the studio at work. Now I have the tether pro plugin, still need some time to verify the setup. Hopefully this week I will do it.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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rantercsr
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Post edited 4 months ago by rantercsr. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 18, 2018 21:20 |  #6636

ok so the mention of continuous lighting re-sparked the thought ..

did a couple of test shots again .. at home (don't mind the messy gackground) , didn't do a backdrop as i wasn't quite in the mood for all that .. which explains my face.. i hope.. i'm home from work as i'm not feeling well (common cold).
i don't think i normally look this bad? :-P

anyways...
i only used one light (both images could have used a second) .. in a wescott appollo orb.. which is a nice diffuser for its price (better than standard umbrella) BUT , very prone to hotspots , so its hard to find a balance sometimes ..especially if used as only source . get rid of hotspots then its too dark .. fill in shadows a bit then comes back the hotspots .. that kind of thing ..

i think for the next studio session i will give it a go and see how it does .. i think i'd definitely want something that i can attach my better bowens modifier to.. and use this LED light as a fill or rim light .


these 2 were shot at iso 800 , f2.8 and 1/60th on a tripod ..i would have preferred f4 but not get past iso 800
with a proper background + 3 lights (i already own 2 just want one that can be bowens mount ).. i'm sure i can get it down to iso 400 but even 800 still looks fine ..
AND i can see the effects in reall time before i take the picture ..as well know the wonderful thing about mirrorless is the WYSIWYG from an evf.. but that goes away when you using lighting

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IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/237k​Ksx  (external link) DSCF9052-Edit (external link) by Randall Herrera (external link), on Flickr

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IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/EPqE​e8  (external link) DSCF9047-Edit-6 (external link) by Randall Herrera (external link), on Flickr

Fuji XH1 / Panasonic GH5 / Sony A7R3 / Canon t4i / Pentax K1000
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sporadic
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Feb 19, 2018 07:25 |  #6637

Picked up a Godox TT350F to fill my small travel flash needs and was worried about lackluster HSS performance. First test shot, but seems fine at 1/1600. Will try again when there's more sun out. So far, very pleased with this little unit.

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/39461057515_30c387379f_b.jpg
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TT350F HSS Test (external link) by smerrick (external link), on Flickr

Fuji X-T1 | X-T2 | 35/1.4 | 10-24 | 18-55 | 55-200 | 50-140 | Rokinon 8/2.8II Fisheye | Rokinon 12/2
7D | 300/4 L IS

  
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Feb 19, 2018 09:00 |  #6638

Out the back of my house. Needless to say the cat was beside himself with excitement.

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IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/237Y​p78  (external link) DSCF4720 (external link) by Kim Farrelly (external link), on Flickr

Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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sporadic
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Feb 19, 2018 09:29 |  #6639

Another new toy, playing with the Rokinon 8mm Fisheye. f/2.8 and cropped a bit. Focus marks seem to be more accurate than the 12mm copy I have, but still getting the hang of it.

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/26489283838_87782daf9b_b.jpg
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Totally Safe (external link) by smerrick (external link), on Flickr

Fuji X-T1 | X-T2 | 35/1.4 | 10-24 | 18-55 | 55-200 | 50-140 | Rokinon 8/2.8II Fisheye | Rokinon 12/2
7D | 300/4 L IS

  
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AlanU
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Feb 19, 2018 10:52 |  #6640

Just curious for the ones that have jumped ship from Nikon, Canon even Sony FF mirrorless.

I'm juggling around my current gear. How many of you are truthfully 100% satisfied with the Fuji 50-140mm telezoom. Fuji is still not my Primary system so it's not a do or die. I can still just go with a 90mm and call it a day but $$$ compromise is truly a tough one for the slightly more dof 50-140mm over what I'm use to with a 70-200 f/2.8IS mk2.

So all said and done the cost of this Fuji lens will be about $2300 CDN. I've now been analyzing my style of photography and for my Fuji I think it's ideal for me to use faster primes. I've been analyzing blogs, youtube and other means of visual "researching" tools. Bokeh is always quite crucial for most portrait photogs. There are so many examples of nervous bokeh using the 50-140mm and that the f/2.8 is almost like it's equivalent to a 70-200 @ f/4.5 using a full frame sensor. I like my Fuji 55-200 but in many cases the contrasty bokeh is absolutely no where near my preference in creamy bokeh. 55-200 has acceptable AF and it's an adequate fast variable aperture lens. There seems to be marginally less nervous bokeh with the 50-140mm vs the 55-200mm.

Kinda shocked as I've been watching a lot of reviews on youtube and it goes from extreme disappointment to bliss.

Are people just dealing with the limitations of a single focal length prime using a "slow AF" 56mm or 90mm prime but getting killer IQ with dreamy bokeh? I don't feel the 56mm is blazing fast in AF. Fast paced events I just love the 70-200mm range but I'm trying to use my Fuji more.

Wow I did some digging in the 50-140mm image quality output and it's crazy sharp with silly fast AF but definitely not a bokeh butter machine. I really want the versatility of the 50-140mm.

Are Fuji photogs just analyzing their style and just forcing themselves to go primes? I'm meeting more and more people jumping on the A7Rmk3 or mk2 mirrorless. Not my personal choice but Sony "eye" focus and excellent fast AF Canon adaption lens is available.

What an interesting world when you analyze gear and photographic styles. Fuji is an eye candy system.

So ???? go 90mm and be more crafty? or take a hit with contrasty nervous bokeh but get more versatility with 50-140mm?

Probably would be a no brainer if I was just a dedicated fuji user. 50-140mm is the only offering Fuji has besides adapting non native glass.


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 50-140 | TT685
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Osa713
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Feb 19, 2018 11:20 |  #6641

Before I reply, what’s nervous bokeh?


LIGHT>LENS>BODY

  
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AlanU
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Feb 19, 2018 11:32 |  #6642

Osa713 wrote in post #18567436 (external link)
Before I reply, what’s nervous bokeh?

kinda like busy contrasty. Not a creamy smooth background like our fast Fuji primes. If you google "nervous bokeh" you'll really see how nasty the 55-200 and 50-140mm can be with green tree foliage. My old canon 70-200 f/2.8IS mk1 actually had nicer bokeh than my new 70-200 f/2.8IS mk2.

This is a youtube example of this lens. The images looks unprocessed but the background bokeh is nervous. My Canon FF with 70-200 at f/2.8 is usually much more creamy but that's expected. I recently started to do more research and I found some serious love for this lens but some pro's do not recommend this lens for portrait work at wide open aperture.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=XVGkYZW6Lq4 (external link)

One youtube review noticed a distinct black line between a high contrast subject. He called it cartoonish. This is his only fuji lens that creates this black outline on the image file. It makes the image "pop" more but it's found in other copies of that same exact lens.

I will very likely buy this lens for needed versatility. I'll "accept" its bokeh as it's Fuji's only offering in that zoom range. I'm shuffling alot of my gear at the moment.

The 50-140mm is a serious lens but I'm just looking at the 2400 buck sticker price and delivery of IQ (lack of) in some situations of high contrast. The 55-200 I own is a great lens that is sharp but the bokeh is horrible imo for human subjects needing dreamy bokeh. Primes are awesome but limitation on versatility for outdoor hired family sessions. I am willing to change my ways. Fuji files is gorgeous as we all know. Oh my.....tough call because I really want the FL.


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 50-140 | TT685
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sporadic
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Feb 19, 2018 11:52 as a reply to  @ AlanU's post |  #6643

I think this may have more to do with the X-Trans sensor than the glass. The foliage issue that many notice seems to manifest itself into nervous bokeh. Maybe pickup an EF to Fuji-X lens adapter and see how the 70-200/2.8 bokeh looks on your XT-2? Both of these were shot w/ the 55-200 at 4.8 (200mm and 190mm) in the same location. Just different days, angles, and lighting. That's the same tree outline in both backgrounds. Once you get enough separation, the bokeh really starts calming down. Surely a 2.8 would smooth out sooner.

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Fuji X-T1 | X-T2 | 35/1.4 | 10-24 | 18-55 | 55-200 | 50-140 | Rokinon 8/2.8II Fisheye | Rokinon 12/2
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Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
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Post edited 4 months ago by Two Hot Shoes. (7 edits in all)
     
Feb 19, 2018 12:10 as a reply to  @ AlanU's post |  #6644

I shoot loads of events with primes, nothing limiting about them at all. But I have a few Fuji cameras so I'm good there.

I also read reports about this 'nervous bokeh' from some reviewers. But I've seen so many good images where there is nothing wrong with the background, even green trees, that it makes me think that the problem lies elsewhere. I have read nothing about the NB in the last year.

Interestingly enough, I was 'talking' to someone about F and T stops in another thread. I looked up the T-Stop for the XF50-140/2.8 and the EF70-200/2.8 II L. The Fuji lens has a T-Stop of 2.9 that is a very efficient lens. The Canon had a T-Stop of 3.4 (on a 5D4) Not that will change the smoothness of your bokeh but it is interesting all the same.

Fuji's crop value is 1.519 so 2.8*1.519=4.25

And the 90/2 is a great little lens that has very quick AF. I think most Fuji shooters who shoot primes at events have more than one camera so they can split a range of views without constantly changing lenses.


Fuji: X-PRO2, X-T1, X-E2 | 16/1.4, 18/2, 23/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.2, 90/2, 16-55/2.8, 10-24/4. AD600BM, TT865F, AL-H198, ThinkTank AS2, Peli1514, Ona Bowery, Matthews Grip
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AlanU
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Feb 19, 2018 13:15 as a reply to  @ Two Hot Shoes's post |  #6645

I shoot primes equally as much as zooms. Zooms for me have infinite perspective changing FL and feet shuffling :) compared to the "fixed" look you can get with a fast prime. I work equally as hard with my camera/subject distances "foot zooming" with zooms. This keeps things fresh with different perspectives always.

Nervous bokeh isn't openly discussed amongs us probably because the 50-140mm is the only solution for the Fuji world. Using an adapter to convert my 70-200 to my Fuji totally defeats the purpose. If I was a Sony A7Rmk3 shooter (very tempted) I will consider a converter as the A7 series is kinda stuck on using full frame bulky glass anyways. However for Fuji we have small glass with big IQ ;)

I have some more growing to do in my Fuji collection. NO rush....8-16, 16-55, 50-140mm and maybe a 23mm f/1.4 is my list I've made. If Fuji finally makes a 35 f/1.4 mk2 I'll consider it.......

My 55-200 is a great lens...just nervous for me :(


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 35mm f/2 IS | 85 mkII L | 100L | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji X-T2 w/battery booster | 16mm f/1.4 | 56 f/1.2 | 10-24 f/4.0 | 50-140 | TT685
Sony A7iii w/ Sigma MC-11 adapter | Godox V860iiS

  
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