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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 02 Mar 2018 (Friday) 13:03
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bobbyz
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Post edited 3 months ago by bobbyz. (4 edits in all)
     
Mar 03, 2018 10:00 |  #16

I have a Quantum QFLash system lying in my studio. Compared to Godox stuff I use (AD200 as well AD600), I wouldn't even touch Quantum. Sorry. For someone using outdoors in the sun, modeling light is totally not needed. Forget GN numbers. A single AD200 in a medium softbox will give you like f8 easy at 6 feet. Need more power, stick two AD200s in a dual head. Need more, get yourself AD600. Being able to control power from $50 Tx is so nice. And HSS is icing on the cake. Want TLL it is there. Now you can even start with TTL, lock that exposure and shoot manual. I think I paid $275 for mine. You have a cheap profoto here.:)


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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echelonphoto
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Mar 03, 2018 15:22 as a reply to  @ bobbyz's post |  #17

Agree with BobbyZ about quantum and modeling lights for outdoors. The ad200's are very good, but they recycle really slow, esp when shooting outdoors where HSS is required. I use the AD360II which is more powerful and also recycles much faster. If you shoot outdoors, softboxes and such are very problematic unless you have someone to hold the light for you. The wind is a real problem and also the softbox cuts down on the power considerably...they are only good if you are using them in very close, anything over 6 feet and you might as well use straight flash. I have had really good results with bare bulb and also the godox half globe diffuser. Its really the direction and strength of light that makes the photo, more than the modifier in use. Takes some experience and practice, but that's what makes photography fun! I try to make the flash just add a little spice to already good ambient light as in this photo....bare bulb, you don't even know its there.


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Grumpy_one
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Mar 03, 2018 18:24 |  #18

echelonphoto wrote in post #18576790 (external link)
Agree with BobbyZ about quantum and modeling lights for outdoors. The ad200's are very good, but they recycle really slow, esp when shooting outdoors where HSS is required. I use the AD360II which is more powerful and also recycles much faster. If you shoot outdoors, softboxes and such are very problematic unless you have someone to hold the light for you. The wind is a real problem and also the softbox cuts down on the power considerably...they are only good if you are using them in very close, anything over 6 feet and you might as well use straight flash. I have had really good results with bare bulb and also the godox half globe diffuser. Its really the direction and strength of light that makes the photo, more than the modifier in use. Takes some experience and practice, but that's what makes photography fun! I try to make the flash just add a little spice to already good ambient light as in this photo....bare bulb, you don't even know its there.
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Hosted photo: posted by echelonphoto in
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forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

If someone would've asked me, I'd say there is no flash, nice job. My main concern would be doing team photo's. How's that AD360 do bare bulb shooting 12 people across? I know I would need one each side. I like the idea of no softboxes.


I shoot Canon's
1DX II, Canon 7D Gripped, 5D3, 24-70L II, 70-200L 2.8 IS Mk I, 85 1.8, Pocket Wizard II triggers, assorted speedlites and modifiers, 580EX, 580EXII, YN560's (6 or so) 50 1.4, t/c 1.4 MkII
www.happyvalleyphotogr​aphy.com (external link)

  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Mar 03, 2018 19:35 as a reply to  @ Grumpy_one's post |  #19

I have 3 360 units, they are great. The form factor requires a little more set up, but I really like that the battery is easily swapped between units. With two sockets per battery you can double the power going to one flash, or split it off to another.

There has been more than one occasion where I have needed to run one battery to two separate flashes, not ideal but can be a life saver.

Cheetah Stand makes a "Colt 45" reflector that would be great for the setup you mention.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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soeren
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Post edited 3 months ago by soeren. (4 edits in all)
     
Mar 04, 2018 09:15 |  #20

AD200 and 360 are huge steps ahead from speedlights just because og their extra power, remember their standard reflectors are 28mm fow equivalent, at that pricepoint they vant be beaten. Learning to reverse engineer light setups also teaches you to previsualise well enough to do all but the most complicated and precision demanding setups.




  
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bobbyz
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Post edited 3 months ago by bobbyz. (6 edits in all)
     
Mar 04, 2018 09:34 |  #21

I never had softbox problem and I shoot mostly outdoors but then I have $300 light stands. For my use I have pair of AD600s so power is not a problem for me. If one is using HSS then yes I would recommend AD600 over anything else. You can get more juice out of your Godox strobes by not using HSS mode and just going the ND filter route if you prefer wider apertures. Another plus of AD600 is the extension head. You have this very light weight head with an 8-9 feet cable so AD600 sits low and does double duty of a sand bag. I am using 40" grip arm on my Avenger/Mathews wheeled stands. I just roll as I shoot.

IMAGE: http://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s10/v98/p2414466073-5.jpg

Personally for single person shots, I like the look provided by deep octa. I also used to use a BD but haven't modified it for Bowen's mount. Cheetahstand has some nice modifiers. I need to pick their 'Colt 45'. Bowen had a nice 17" sunlite but it is not available anymore.

IMAGE: http://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s11/v36/p2240840742-5.jpg

5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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echelonphoto
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Mar 04, 2018 10:24 as a reply to  @ Grumpy_one's post |  #22

I have done large bridal parties with the bare bulb outside, inside I use one shoot thru umbrella.. One AD360 on a stand and an tt685 on camera for trigger and fill. The bare bulb gives 360 degree coverage, so groups are no problem, the godox soft half globe reflector is also very good for this, but it does cut down power somewhat.




  
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echelonphoto
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Mar 04, 2018 10:35 as a reply to  @ bobbyz's post |  #23

What I was trying to say about softboxes is not only the wind factor, but the softness factor, which pretty much goes away after about six feet, unless it is an extremely large softbox. Take a typical 36 or 42 inch box, can give very soft wrap around lighting if it is 3 feet from subject...pull it back to 8 ft. and you have lost the soft quality...softness is about teh SIZE of the light in relation to the subject. Now strangely, I have found that a small light source can be softer for some reason if it is VERY far away....must have something to do with bouncing around and spread of light. The barebulb in my example was at least 15 feet from the subject...yet it looks very natural, as I balanced it with ambient. The above examples using softboxes look kind of hard and "flashy" to me.




  
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bobbyz
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Post edited 3 months ago by bobbyz.
     
Mar 04, 2018 14:27 |  #24

How does bare bulb bounce around outdoors unless you have walls? Natural agree but that is flash/ambient balance. You add touch of flash and it will look more natural. Some like that way, others like more flashed look. You can do with all this with any modifier IMHO. Making small source further from subject doesn't make it soft. Trust me.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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Grumpy_one
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Post edited 3 months ago by Grumpy_one.
     
Mar 04, 2018 14:46 |  #25

This is from a couple of years ago, two softboxes, one med (36x48) and one small for fill (24x32).

IMAGE: https://photos.smugmug.com/Portraits/Senior/i-dn5s9vZ/0/cda2e775/L/8F6C6223-Edit%20copy-L.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://photos.smugmug​.com …dit%20copy-L.jpg&lb=1&s=A  (external link) on Smugmug

I shoot Canon's
1DX II, Canon 7D Gripped, 5D3, 24-70L II, 70-200L 2.8 IS Mk I, 85 1.8, Pocket Wizard II triggers, assorted speedlites and modifiers, 580EX, 580EXII, YN560's (6 or so) 50 1.4, t/c 1.4 MkII
www.happyvalleyphotogr​aphy.com (external link)

  
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Grumpy_one
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Mar 04, 2018 15:06 |  #26

My softboxes: These are big and cumbersome to carry around or setup on site. I've traveled to SF for a engagement/wedding shoot, what a pain. Been shooting with these for over 10 years, time to upgrade. Was going to buy a 300mm 2.8, but don't really need it, it's just a want. I think it's time to really upgrade my lighting situation. The Godox stuff looks like it's right up my alley. 2-4 AD200's, 1-2 AD600 and/or 1-2 AD360. 2K budget right now. More after my season is over. You can see from the pic that the inside is white, not silver, I'm sure it produces a softer light, seems everything is silver nowa days. These are REALLY old, but still work, but it's more work than I want in the field. Pics as promised.


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I shoot Canon's
1DX II, Canon 7D Gripped, 5D3, 24-70L II, 70-200L 2.8 IS Mk I, 85 1.8, Pocket Wizard II triggers, assorted speedlites and modifiers, 580EX, 580EXII, YN560's (6 or so) 50 1.4, t/c 1.4 MkII
www.happyvalleyphotogr​aphy.com (external link)

  
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echelonphoto
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Mar 04, 2018 16:09 as a reply to  @ bobbyz's post |  #27

I guess maybe soft is the wrong word, but you can certainly make it look "natural" if you know what you are doing. Taken in open shade with one off camera light at 10 ft. camera right using ad360 with godox blobe reflector. You can see the small catchlights in the eyes, but if you didn't see them, you probably wouldn't know a flash was used.


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Grumpy_one
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Mar 04, 2018 16:40 |  #28

godox blobe reflector?


I shoot Canon's
1DX II, Canon 7D Gripped, 5D3, 24-70L II, 70-200L 2.8 IS Mk I, 85 1.8, Pocket Wizard II triggers, assorted speedlites and modifiers, 580EX, 580EXII, YN560's (6 or so) 50 1.4, t/c 1.4 MkII
www.happyvalleyphotogr​aphy.com (external link)

  
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soeren
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Post edited 3 months ago by soeren. (2 edits in all)
     
Mar 04, 2018 22:16 |  #29

Could be more about quality of ambient, the balance of ambient to flash and placement of flash than hard vs soft vs barebulb flash.




  
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echelonphoto
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Mar 05, 2018 10:13 as a reply to  @ soeren's post |  #30

That's my very point...lots of folks think they can breing a softbox to a shoot and get great results immediately....its more about placement and power in my opinion




  
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Upgrade from speedlights
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