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Thread started 24 Feb 2018 (Saturday) 14:23

# Resolutions

Feb 24, 2018 14:23 |  #1

I ended up here by mistake, I barely know what button to push on a camera, seriously! If anyone would have some spare time and bored would you take the time to explain resolutions to me. I don't understand the ratios, (never been good at math) and I gave no idea which one to use and in what situation. I apologize for bothering any of you. And please don't feel guilty for not answering, I'm not sure I'll ever know where to go again to find the reply!!! Well at least I hope I given you a good laugh, cheered you up & brightened your day! LOL

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Feb 24, 2018 19:03 |  #2

My personal belief is that the typical consumer has swallowed the bath water about resolution, in spite of what was written a decade ago about NOT really needing much more than about 25MPixel to run into Physics and diffraction.
The human eye only can resolve about 1 minute of arc, so

• in a 4" x 6" print viewed from 78" away, we need not many pixels at all; we only need 4.5MPixels and any more our eyes are not able to detect!
• in a 8" x 10" print viewed from 12" away, we need not many pixels at all; we only need 8MPixels and any more our eyes are not able to detect!
• in a 16" x 24" print viewed from only 12" away (instead of at 24" viewing distance), we only need 32MPixels and any more our eyes are not able to detect!
And things have been published on the web about billboard size images being perfectly presentable with source images having only 2MPixel.

About 'ratio'...there is no ratio per se which is related to 'resolution'. The ratio I think about is 'aspect ratio' which tells the relative size of one side vs. the other side.

1" x 1" is 1:1 aspect ratio
8" x 8" is 1:1 aspect ratio
4" x 6" is 1:1.5 aspect ratio
8" x 10" is 1:1.25 aspect ratio
the APS-C and the FF image is 1:1.5 aspect ratio

If you start with APS-C image in camera, and want to print an 8 x 10" print to be framed for the bookshelf, you have to either:
• cut off about 17% of the original image length so it fits the 1:1.25 aspect ratio
• fit the long dimension into 10", leaving 1.3" of white space in the height of the 8" x 10" tall paper.

...most commercial print making services do the first, and you have little control usually about what gets cut off!

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Canon dSLR system, Olympus OM 35mm system, Bronica ETRSi 645 system, Horseman LS 4x5 system, Metz flashes, Dynalite studio lighting, and too many accessories to mention

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Feb 27, 2018 16:37 |  #3

Modern digital cameras have sufficient resolution for most purposes. What makes the difference is the lens in front of the camera and the person in back of it.

George
Democracy Dies in Darkness

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Feb 28, 2018 12:01 |  #4

First reply says it all. You can set aspect ratio in camera, so it matches.

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Mar 04, 2018 20:15 |  #5

When it comes to which resolution to select in the camera, I would always pick the maximum possible for the camera, unless there is some real pressing need to do otherwise. By selecting the highest resolution, at the highest quality setting I always know that no matter what later transpires, I have the most information to work from.

Even if I'm just shooting some shots to help me sell something on ebay say, I'll shoot a maximum res and quality. It is very easy to downsize the image in software to make it suitable for posting. I have in the past very nearly switched the camera to small JPEG to shoot some simple shots for just that use. I have also then been asked not long afterwards to incorporate that image, that now can't be reshot, as the main image in a very large display poster. Fortunately I had shot the images at maximum resolution and quality, so the request was not an issue.There are even more distressing occasions where a photo may take on incredible significance, and having the only copy be that heavily compressed 500×375 image you posted to Facebook, and you didn't even keep the original is a disaster. Again an issue that I have recently had to help deal with for someone. They were very happy with the 8×8 canvas I managed to produce, but it took about 4 hours working on the image in Ps, literally hand painting out JPEG artifacts to do it.

As a newcomer to photography I would not expect you to want to start working on images that were shot using the RAW setting, that is too much. What I will say is that if your camera supports shooting in RAW then set it so that it records both a JPEG and a RAW image. That way if you take a shot that is slightly less than perfectly exposed, and it turns out to be important after the event, even if you can't fix it now, you have the original RAW file, CR2 if it's a Canon camera, that you can use to try to sort the image out at a later date when your skills have improved.

So initially I would say set the camera to shoot BOTH a Large Fine JPEG, and a RAW file at the same time. I would then always treat the RAW file just like a film negative was treated, and keep that safe. The JPEG file is your instant print, and as long as you have the RAW it is very easy to replace that JPEG file should it become necessary.

Alan

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Resolutions
AAA
 x 1600 y 1600

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