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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 20 Mar 2018 (Tuesday) 10:56
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Flash Diffuser Question

 
Wilt
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Post edited 3 months ago by Wilt. (4 edits in all)
     
Apr 01, 2018 11:58 |  #16

tspencer1 wrote in post #18596415 (external link)
Thank you. I think the takeaway is - if the flash is on camera - set the unit at Zoom "A" so it meshes with the lens zoom?

  • If you want flash zoomhead to have coverage area needed by the lens' set FL, set the flash to obtain its FL setting from the camera on which it is mounted (and do not use a flash manually set FL)
  • If you want flash zoomhead to have coverage area needed by 'any' lens FL you choose to use -- while the flash is not under eTTL (radio/IR) control and is mounted off-camera -- set the FL of the flash manually to a Wide Angle value)
  • If you have an APS-C body, you need to make sure your flash understands that FL values are based on the narrower Coverage Angle of the smaller sensor, so you may need to put your flash unit into 'APS-C' mode vs. 'FF' mode so it properly sets its flash head...camera knows '50mm', but for 50mm on APS-C the flash sets a narrower coverage angle than it would set when mounted on FF body.

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Apr 02, 2018 07:41 as a reply to  @ Wilt's post |  #17

Thank you Wilt and Davinci. I finally got the zoom on the flash to work in auto mode. I had inadvertantly not pushed the plastic diffuser all the way back in and so it was stuck on 14 mm. It was BARELY out but by pushing it in even further it clicked into place. Took awhile to stumble across that! Auto flash now works fine with a zoom lens.




  
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Methodical
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Post edited 3 months ago by Methodical. (4 edits in all)
     
Apr 03, 2018 02:01 |  #18

MalVeauX wrote in post #18590132 (external link)
Hi Tim,

The flash is good. Though, personally, I have the Adorama Flashpoint clone (same flash). I went that direction because the warranty and support is with Adorama here in USA, and not dealing with the zero support of over-sea (China). The Flashpoint R2 TTL series is the same thing and you can get it here in the USA. LINK: https://www.adorama.co​m …0yzQ8REAYYAyABE​gJtBPD_BwE (external link)

Don't bother with the diffuser.

Just bounce the flash off the ceiling or a wall. Much softer.

Very best,

Man, that looks like a nice flash. I also like the Li on version, too.

I have a 2x Canon 580II and the one died again, but I won't be getting it fixed, nor will I be spending $500 or more for a flash unless it's a larger strobe. I will do some research on this unit.

To the OP or anyone else, here's video on how to make a bigger bounce card for your flash inexpensively.

Bounce Card (external link)


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Post edited 3 months ago by mystik610. (4 edits in all)
     
Apr 03, 2018 06:18 |  #19

I have a pair of the Godox versions of this flash. VERY SOLILD. Recycle times are better than any speedlight I've previously used...including the Canon 600EX. Those LI batteries last quite a while and cycle quickly, but the downside is that if you shoot a long event you might want to pick up another battery and they are not cheap.

The whole Godox/Flashpoint lighting system is really great. If you decide to move beyond flashes and into strobes, they have a lot of really nice and affordable options that play with the same radio system. The AD200/Evolv200 has to be the coolest strobe ever due to its portability and modularity, and they're an awesome value given that they're significantly cheaper than a Canon speedlight, but have 3x more power.

With regards to on camera flash diffusers...not worth the hassle. If you want soft light, you need to increase the size of the light...as others mentioned, bouncing is the most efficient way to do this if you have the walls to work with. The problem with these on camera flash diffusers is that they don't increase the apparent size of the flash by much, so it doesn't make enough of a difference to make the inconvenience worthwhile.


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Bassat
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Apr 03, 2018 06:47 |  #20

Methodical wrote in post #18599259 (external link)
To the OP or anyone else, here's video on how to make a bigger bounce card for your flash inexpensively.

Bounce Card (external link)

This video describes how to spend $10 and an hour of your time making something you can do in 2 seconds for less than a penny.
Raw materials, then finished product.


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Apr 03, 2018 08:34 as a reply to  @ Methodical's post |  #21

Methodical - thanks for the tip!




  
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Apr 03, 2018 08:35 as a reply to  @ Bassat's post |  #22

Thanks Tom.




  
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Methodical
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Post edited 3 months ago by Methodical. (3 edits in all)
     
Apr 03, 2018 17:51 |  #23

Hey, whatever floats your boat Tom. I like my version better, but in a pinch the index card will work, too, or just pull out the flash bounce card.


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I just ordered the Flashpoint R2 (Li on version) flash and the pro transmitter. Glad I came across this thread with the link as I was not in a hurry to buy another expensive Canon flash. I always like to have at least 2 small flashes in my kit.

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Post edited 3 months ago by mystik610.
     
Apr 03, 2018 18:19 |  #24

My preferred method with bounce flash is the black foamie thingie... Basically the anti bounce card as the idea is to flag the flash and not any light hit your subject directly. This creates directional light with directional shadows that mimics the fall-off of an off-camera light.

You can make a black foamie thingie with craft foam, but after a while you want something that can mount easily and will actually stay on if youre moving around a lot. So I use the flashbender to flag the flash.

https://neilvn.com …about/black-foamie-thing/ (external link)


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soeren
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Apr 03, 2018 22:19 |  #25

mystik610 wrote in post #18599671 (external link)
My preferred method with bounce flash is the black foamie thingie... Basically the anti bounce card as the idea is to flag the flash and not any light hit your subject directly. This creates directional light with directional shadows that mimics the fall-off of an off-camera light.

You can make a black foamie thingie with craft foam, but after a while you want something that can mount easily and will actually stay on if youre moving around a lot. So I use the flashbender to flag the flash.

https://neilvn.com …about/black-foamie-thing/ (external link)

bw! Like like like :-)
I really hate those speedlight telltale catchlights and almost unavoidable shadows made when used unflagged on camera




  
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F2Bthere
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Apr 10, 2018 10:46 |  #26

For on-camera bounced flash, Neil van Niekerk, already mentioned, is the authority.

For off-camera flash, generally superior in results, there are many options. This one is free, very popular and will get you started:

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com/2006/03/lightin​g-101.html (external link)

He will start you off with the umbrella which has three primary virtues when photographing people: inexpensive, forgiving, easy to get decent results and versatile.

Then look at what work you like and figure out how that is done.

I prefer a more painterly look like this:

https://www.instagram.​com …en-by=storyinpictures_com (external link)

Which requires a bit more control than you will get with the umbrella method on the Strobist blog, but it does use the same principles (technically, you could achieve it with an umbrella combined with other tools).

Umbrellas tend to give you less control.

There are many ways to get good and even great light. There are far more ways to get poor and even very bad light ;). Knowledge is power.


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Flash Diffuser Question
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