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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 03 Apr 2018 (Tuesday) 20:33
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LED Modeling Light for Elinchrom?

 
simonbarker
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Apr 07, 2018 09:47 |  #31

Angmo wrote in post #18601647 (external link)
I stand by what I wrote. ...and as Paul stated - the right tool. The engine was gonna melt so AS DESIGNED it shut down.

How is that design benefit somehow selectively a fault. His use might be heavier than yours.

Hence my “whining” comment.

Geeze...

If you insist on a car metaphor, if the engine melts because you've left the headlights on I don't think the problem is with the headlights... I'd say there's a design flaw there especially from something so commonplace.

It doesn't help anyone to say how foolish the person is being because they're expecting to do something relatively simple (like running modelling lights) and nor do I think buying the most expensive monoblock or moving to a full blown pack and head system is an especially great option when there's cheaper alternatives which can manage such a simple task.

All of that can be achieved without heckling someone and neither of you pause to consider questions like is too powerful a modelling bulb being used? Why isn't the active cooling system sufficient for the task? Those seem like reasonable things to ask before mocking someone.




  
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fotopaul
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Post edited 4 months ago by fotopaul. (2 edits in all)
     
Apr 07, 2018 10:34 |  #32

Simon why would I ask what kind of modeling bulb he uses when he clearly stated he used the stock bulb?

Now I mentioned several times that the RX 2 and 4 is super easy to check if they are performing as they should as the temp and status of the flash can easily be read in the Skyport software.

I also mentioned my own experience as well as informing him that I tested running the D-lite RX with modeling light on the very same day I posted. As it happened I also talked to the Nordic service tech, as I sat beside him when I replied.

I can assure you he is more knowledgeable than both you and I when it comes to the D-lites and how they respond to overheating..

In short the D-lites RX can be used with the modeling light on without any issues under normal shooting conditions, ventilated room and softboxes. As for you thinking that using a modeling light is not a demanding task, well it all depends on in what environment and which modifier you use.


Very few people buy D-lites due to their modeling light.. they are not very strong. If you buy D-lites because they are light and small, and then complain about them being "plastic" and cheap... well you can't have it all.

Again buy the right tool for the job.

You and OP can, of course, render my contribution here as "not helpful" that's fine.

And in all honesty, I do occasionally get tired of people who really aren't interested in a solution but rather keep whining and talk about the problem.


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Angmo
looks like I picked a bad week to give up halucinagens
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Post edited 4 months ago by Angmo.
     
Apr 07, 2018 12:09 |  #33

simonbarker wrote in post #18601876 (external link)
If you insist on a car metaphor, if the engine melts because you've left the headlights on I don't think the problem is with the headlights... I'd say there's a design flaw there especially from something so commonplace.

It doesn't help anyone to say how foolish the person is being because they're expecting to do something relatively simple (like running modelling lights) and nor do I think buying the most expensive monoblock or moving to a full blown pack and head system is an especially great option when there's cheaper alternatives which can manage such a simple task.

All of that can be achieved without heckling someone and neither of you pause to consider questions like is too powerful a modelling bulb being used? Why isn't the active cooling system sufficient for the task? Those seem like reasonable things to ask before mocking someone.

??? Some folks whine, some folks dont. As for your post. Get another bulb for your headlight. It must have reached end-of-life. You accomplish this by determining root cause. Or not. Feel free either way.


Nikons, Rolleiflexes, Elinchroms, Billinghams

  
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F2Bthere
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Apr 10, 2018 12:02 |  #34

If you are annoyed with a person, step away and post another time. If you feel some urgency about "needing" to respond and not walk away, that is an even better sign that this is a bad time to post. Walk away.

I have seen good posts from everyone here, so I know there are no fools in the room. Please, let's get off of the emotional content before someone makes himself look like a fool.

We have all watched others do it. Many times. Lets not do it ourselves :).

[Waiting for the classic "next emotional post which ends with the person saying they are 'stopping' while continuing to do it" post. ;).]


C&C always welcomed...
On my images, of course, and on my words as well--as long as it's constructive :).
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F2Bthere
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Post edited 4 months ago by F2Bthere. (2 edits in all)
     
Apr 10, 2018 12:08 |  #35

Back to our topic:

Small modifiers are a problem because they trap a small pocket of heat. But even a big box would get quite hot when my Bowens 250Watt modeling light was on full power. This isn't an "Elinchrom" issue so much as a "hot light in a small space" issue.

Fans (built in or external) do help. Lowering the power on the modeling light or turning it off when not in use helps. Creating an opening in the modifier by adjusting or modifying it does help, preferably at a higher point (heat rises).

Going to an LED modeling lamp helps a lot more :).

I haven't tried this but someone has:

https://www.ryomuratap​hotography.com …ne-use-led-modeling-lamp/ (external link)

IKEA even has a unit with a remote dimmer switch:

https://www.ikea.com …atalog/products​/50356960/ (external link)

As the article says: Experiment at your own risk :)


C&C always welcomed...
On my images, of course, and on my words as well--as long as it's constructive :).
https://www.instagram.​com/storyinpictures_co​m/ (external link)

  
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Angmo
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Post edited 4 months ago by Angmo.
     
Apr 10, 2018 14:34 |  #36

Next Product: Modifier Mounted Water Cooled Exhaust Fans... :-)

Seems reasonable this issue is unique'ish to the OP. I've run lights hot and long. I do crack open the top of a modifier somewhere. Never ran into a shutoff.

I have with Buff VLC batteries though. I simply tossed a white towel over (not blocking the vents) or otherwise shaded the units. Arizona can get a bit on the warm side. Usually don't shoot long in the heat though. Depends on the shoot/location/time...

I've hacked some speedlight based modifiers to accept my Elinchrom lights, but know not to run modeling lights in them.


Nikons, Rolleiflexes, Elinchroms, Billinghams

  
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MayaTlab
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Apr 29, 2018 04:04 |  #37

sipowicz wrote in post #18599751 (external link)
Is there an LED bulb that would fit and work well with Elinchrom strobes? I'm looking for a solution.

Hi Sipowicz, have you eventually tested any LED light bulb ? If so what are your findings ?




  
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Wilt
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Apr 29, 2018 18:00 |  #38

A 100W halide incandescent outputs just under 9000 lumens...
The highest output LED that I have found only outputs 3000 lumens
One third the output
High light output LED technology has not caught up yet.


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Canon dSLR system, Olympus OM 35mm system, Bronica ETRSi 645 system, Horseman LS 4x5 system, Metz flashes, Dynalite studio lighting, and too many accessories to mention

  
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LED Modeling Light for Elinchrom?
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