STICKY: Fuji Users Unite - Post your comments, questions and images here

Hello folks, I finally had the chance of shooting people again, and wow am I rusty. Long story short, I shot in RAW, but loved how they looked in JPEG, so I did the in camera processing so I can get those same JPEG images as my starting point for editing.

Also, I love shooting with long lenses vs standards and wide angles

This was also my first time shooting during a Golden Hour.

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Roads End - Lincoln City - Oregon

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MatthewK wrote in post #18678946
Good to know about the shutter speed! What about ISO in Auto, can it be set to do the same thing?

I think I'm just going to run Aperture priority for now, like the good little noob that I am, until I learn all of the functions. Actually, I'm thinking that I may just keep it that way, as this is my casual camera and I want to keep things simple.

The Command Dial: I haven't wrapped my head around that one yet: in EVF, it functions as the manual focusing ring, and since I have peaking enabled, it's pretty awesome! In OVF/EVF mode, when it's set to nothing (which is where I have it now), if you turn the dial one way the boundary square in the view finder starts to shrink towards the bottom right corner. Turn it the other way, it does nothing.

For now I just have all of my custom buttons/dials set to nothing, and I'll add functions in once I start getting more fluid with it. I really want to look into the ND filter and flash!

MatthewK wrote in post #18678904
3) I can't change the ISO value either. Is this because I have to use the dial to change it, and if it's set to Auto I have no control over it?

Shooting aperture priory, you can use the exposure comp dial to adjust the ISO. Set Auto ISO to whatever values you shoot between (you can adjust them in the menu), I have Auto 1 set to use ISO200 - 12800. Then spin the EC dial and your auto iso will change - you can see all this in the EVF/LCD. I find that works best when you use the matrix metering mode with 'preview EXP and WB' turned on.

AlanU wrote in post #18678600
Yesterday shooting with the fuji x-t2 with 56mm. I push the shutter button blindly so that I can prime the camera to stay awake. I'm so use to Canon being able to grab the camera and push the shutter button and within micro seconds take the shot. I missed a good amount of shots yesterday with my Fuji as I wait patiently to wake up. It takes a short time to wake up but it's still not where I want it to be. Also the 56mm is not known for instant AF response. Some can argue but I do find the Sony and Canon are quicker on the draw which is really beneficial for me. When it's casual snapshots I am not critical and it's all good. When I'm in the "zone" and on a mission I am definitely less tolerant.

Yes the wake up is an issue I have with my Fuji also as compared to my 5DSR. Infact the lag is also noticeable( But not as bad as from asleep) when Im on single shot and awake . If I haven't got AF locked and it needs to acquire with a full press of the shutter release from scratch( as against AF primed at half depressed shutter release) its significantly slower than my 5DSR. And thats with things like face detect OIS etc disabled on the fuji but is on with my canon . But Im ok with that as I have the Canon for these situations where I need quick state of ready such as wildlife etc. Really its horses for courses . I was at a local wetlands the other day for some Birds in Flight and of the 20 odd photographers lined up in the birds flight path together not one of them had a mirrorless camera. And thats very telling actually.

And its not isolated as I do a lot of this sort of photography and the highest mirrorless to DSL ratio I recon Ive seen over last 12 months would be may 1 -2 in 10 max and they were Sony's with the odd Olympus 4/3 . But Im sure as the mirrorless manufacturers refine their hardware and software this difference will eventually disappear. And I hope it will happen soon because its getting damn heavy trying to track a bird in flight handheld using my a 5DSR( with double battery grip) with 400 f2.8 attached! A t-20/2 with a fujinon 200mm f2 and extender is going to be an absolute killer weight wise for this sort of task....Just needs to be a bit faster in things like waking and AF acquisition and my 400mm f2.8 is on the market

cheers

AlanU wrote in post #18678650
I'm one of those "tards"

I see how some systems excels over others. Fuji has the form factor both in body and lens.

There is no denial that there are differences between different format. I will use tools that suites my needs better in different circumstances.

With all of my L glass I have meticulously micro adjusted the setup. In my shooting style I have yet to have any front /back focus and is on par with my Fuji and sony setup. I will say I'm incredibly spoiled in the low light performance of my "tard" equipment This is where the Fuji is good but not on par with a slightly larger FF. It's not all about bokeh but when it comes to zooms I totally prefer my FF for just that added subject/background separation.

Looks like I may be a tard too

MalVeauX wrote in post #18678788
"Let's be bug finders!" she said.

Fuji X-T1
Rokinon 50mm F1.2
Meike 16mm Extension
Flashpoint R2 TTL Zoom + Ghetto Diffuser

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/MJY9​oY DSCF9712 copy by Martin Wise, on Flickr

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https://flic.kr/p/L7Fn​biDSCF9696 copy by Martin Wise, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/29Sz​sCMDSCF9690 copy by Martin Wise, on Flickr

Very best,

Love the detail and colors in image 2! especially the red of the eyes ....makes the shot

From my back yard last night, was planet-watching.

Mars is the bright spot in the lower left shining through the storm clouds.

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Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18679116
Shooting aperture priory, you can use the exposure comp dial to adjust the ISO. Set Auto ISO to whatever values you shoot between (you can adjust them in the menu), I have Auto 1 set to use ISO200 - 12800. Then spin the EC dial and your auto iso will change - you can see all this in the EVF/LCD. I find that works best when you use the matrix metering mode with 'preview EXP and WB' turned on.

Good stuff, I'll try this out today!

MalVeauX wrote in post #18679239
From my back yard last night, was planet-watching.

Mars is the bright spot in the lower left shining through the storm clouds.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/28vN​kre DSCF9715 copy by Martin Wise, on Flickr

Very best,

Very nice image Martin. Astro is the one thing I want to do most but have yet not taken the opportunity. It's time that I just get out and do it.

Love my Fujifilm X-T20. It has one sweet sensor IMO.

Charlie Wesley
St. Augustine Beach, FL
_______________

Canon 5Ds , Canon EOS - 7D Mk II, Fujifilm X-T20, Sony RX10 Mk4, Canon Pixma Pro 10 Printer, Sekonic L- 358 incident/ flash meter, Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 USM, Canon EF 24- 105 f/4 IS, Canon EF 85 mm f/1.8 USM, Canon EF 70 -200 mm.L f/4, Sigma 180 mm. HSM f/3.5 EX DG APO Macro IF AF, Canon EF 100- 400 mm. F/4.5- 5.6 L IS, Canon EF 500 mm. f/4 L IS, 1.4 TC, 12 & 25 mm. Ext. tubes, Better Beamer, Canon 580 EX II flash.

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Trying out the different film sims. This SOOC color is so luscious! Aside from some sharpening, no edits done.

Another thing I'm loving about mirrorless: NO MFA! What a relief.

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MFA?

I'm guessing you don't mean Master of Fine Arts

The staff tumbling demo at Woodward camp

X-Pro2 + XF 55-200mm... oddly, the AF tracking had no problem keeping up

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Used the XH1 and XT2 to shoot some video for interviews this passed weekend. Seemed to work great. Will post results later.

I love the look of the OVF, but man, I am missing almost every shot at closer range. Like, not by a tiny bit, but completely not in the same ball park. It's the parallax correction or whatever, and I've read up on it enough to know how it works, but it's still confusing:

- if I AF on something, and the corrected green box appears... do I need to recompose and put the actual focus box on that same spot the correct box had appeared?

or

- if I AF on something, and the corrected green box appears... do I need to recompose and put the actual focus box further up and to the left, the same distance away as the corrected box had appeared away from the original point of focus?


Yeah, some mental gymnastics on this one...