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Thread started 27 Nov 2018 (Tuesday) 10:46
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Finally wanting to calibrate monitor

 
Lyndön
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Dec 04, 2018 09:23 |  #16

ozziepuppy wrote in post #18763743 (external link)
I agree. However, family members are wanting prints. I went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered it from B&H at full price (hate that!). However, even though it is "next day shipping," it won't get here before Friday. I just get behinder and behinder. . .:-(

I just had a thought, though. Since I had to order the Spyder at full price, perhaps I need to order a lens that is on sale in order to make up for it!
Makes sense, right?
(That's my story and I'm sticking to it!)

In a pinch, before calibration, I've ordered prints online and picked up at local places like Costco, using their color correction services. That works well enough for things like printing Christmas cards and such for family. That said, I've been calibrated for several years and it's definitely the way to go instead of relying on someone else to get it right.


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steveglass
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Dec 10, 2018 08:43 as a reply to  @ Lyndön's post |  #17

You'll be glad you get the system and calibrate your workflow. It trains your eye to see the subtlety of color. You'll find yourself saying things like, "Looks like maybe 4 points too much magenta". There's more to color than it being literal, but accuracy is such a great start.


http://www.steveglassp​hotographer.com/ (external link)

  
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firme
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Dec 10, 2018 16:02 |  #18

Thanks. Still on the look out for one. Are used ones an option for those who no longer want them?




  
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Lyndön
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Dec 10, 2018 21:45 |  #19

firme wrote in post #18768242 (external link)
Thanks. Still on the look out for one. Are used ones an option for those who no longer want them?

Yes, within reason. I had an older Spyder 3 Pro (I think they’re on 5 now) that worked great for a long time, but unfortunately stopped being supported with newer MacOS versions. So I had to replace it.

You can also rent ColorMunki’s from Lensrentals I believe for fairly cheap. You really should recalibrate occasionally to keep everything correct, though.


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firme
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Dec 11, 2018 08:49 |  #20

Damn you Apple.




  
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Lyndön
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Dec 11, 2018 22:30 |  #21

firme wrote in post #18768719 (external link)
Damn you Apple.

More like “damn you Datacolor”. There’s no reason they couldn’t make a driver for newer versions of MacOS, but they want to keep selling newer products (which I understand). I’ve read that the Spyder 3 wasn’t the greatest with LED monitors and that was improved in the newer hardware versions but I don’t know that for sure. Oh well, that’s probably why there are a bunch of Spyder 3’s on eBay now.


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firme
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Dec 13, 2018 23:01 |  #22

Thanks for the heads up about the Spyder 3.




  
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Pippan
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Dec 14, 2018 00:27 |  #23

steveglass wrote in post #18764089 (external link)
There a few components to consider:
capture
raw conversion
monitor

How the rest of the world sees your images you have no control over.
I use the Xrite system with the Color Munki as the monitor calibration. I'm using an Eizo screen that's designed to be calibrated.
But I start the process by shooting a color target at the beginning of a shoot once I've settled on the lighting.
Then I bring that into Lightroom and created a custom profile for that using the capture of the color target. This is overkill but it seems to help in some situations. e.g. I'm creating a calibration for the sensor in every lighting set up in addition to white balance.
I'm calibrating my monitor using the Color Munki.

Not that color has to be always literal. But accuracy is a great place to start.

This is the easiest way to do it in the long run.


— Please feel free to offer your thoughts on how I might improve my images —

  
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Lyndön
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Dec 15, 2018 00:21 |  #24

I’ve never done the custom profile part, but I do shoot the xrite colorchecker passport for portrait shoots. Then I edit on my iMac that’s calibrated with the i1Studio (fancy version of the ColorMunki) using the colorchecker to set the white balance... well, the starting point at least as sometimes I’ll tweak it. The last part I’ll add is for output. Make sure if you’re printing yourself to turn off all color management from the printer and let your editing software do the color management by using the appropriate ICC profile for the paper you’re printing on. Then your output should match what’s on your screen. ߘ. Pretty easy once itbs all set up the first time.


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Lyndön
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Dec 26, 2018 00:56 |  #25

firme wrote in post #18763901 (external link)
I also have to work on prints but this won't be my first time working without a calibrated monitor. Will just have to manage without it.

https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …ownloadable_sof​tware.html (external link)

B&H has the Spyder 5 Pro back on sale for $89 now for 2 days only.


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firme
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Dec 26, 2018 08:15 |  #26

Thanks. Will definitely take advantage. Thanks for the heads up. Much appreciated.




  
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ericbowles
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Dec 26, 2018 09:04 |  #27

Monitor calibration is important, but you also need to understand it's limits. I'm using the Datacolor Spyder 5 Elite to calibrate two monitors - a laptop and a stand alone NEC wide gamut monitor.

My relatively new Dell Inspiron 13 laptop only displays 70% of sRGB. Like most laptops, it's far too bright and too blue. Brightness needs to be dialed back to about 50%. SRGB is a relatively narrow color space that works well for the web because it can be displayed on most devices. BUT - my laptop and most laptops can't display all of sRGB colors. That's okay for most work, but I may get banding on my laptop that is not present in my NEC monitor or a print. I can't necessarily see all the colors my Epson printer can print.

My NEC wide gamut monitor provides more resolution but great color. It's more than 110% of AdobeRGB - much wider color gamut than my laptop. And the color is much more accurate. But even it can't display the colors my Epson 4900 can produce - which is well beyond AdobeRGB. So when I print, I still have to check color in the actual print. I can account for paper brightness, and some factors, but I can't see all the color until I produce a print.

I also use a print service that produces images slightly below Adobe RGB. I can use their profiles, but in practice I just ahave to accept there may be a color error and its easier to reprint than to try to be perfect. I usually process to sRGB for outside work just to reduce errors and stay within a known common gamut.

I check the gamut monthly but rarely have a material change.


Eric Bowles
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firme
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Dec 26, 2018 23:43 |  #28

Thanks for the heads up ericbowles.

This being my first ever monitor calibration process and hardware, I don't know what to expect really. Really hoping that it will help much better than from what I was working with, if this is a realistic hope in my case. It seems that it will be more of trial and error for me. Are there any tips you can provide that maybe helpful if possible? Perhaps my monitor being old, may in itself have limits compared to "newer" monitors out in the market.




  
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Lyndön
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Dec 27, 2018 01:47 |  #29

The software that comes with the Spyder (assuming it’s similar to the older version I used) will show you a before/after and let you toggle between the two after calibration. It’s interesting to see the difference.

While not perfect, an older monitor should do just fine for general color calibration, assuming it’s a fairly good model. My iMac editing computer is fairly new, but I’ve color calibrated the older Dell Ultrasharp on my daughter’s computer from around 2004 and it still does fine for her photos. Would it be good enough for commercial work where it needs to be spot on? Maybe not, but it’s certainly good enough to get usable skin tones and good looking prints that don’t show a noticeable color shift.

Notebooks are weird when it comes to calibration because of their portable nature. Moving them into different lighting conditions, varying screen angle, varying screen brightness to save battery, etc. can all affect how accurate it is. I’m no calibration expert for certain, but I know enough to see that color management can be a rabbit hole you can dive into as deeply as you’d like. Personally, as long as my prints come out looking good, that’s all I need.


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firme
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Dec 27, 2018 08:05 |  #30

Lyndon, thanks for the help. The monitor being used is stationary, hopefully that would help some how as it is not moved. Perhaps this is already covered in the manual, but should one reset the monitor to factory settings or does the hardware calibrate to what the monitor is already adjusted by user?

As you mentioned will have to print to see what a difference it made. Thanks again.




  
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Finally wanting to calibrate monitor
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