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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 15 Sep 2014 (Monday) 11:20
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-= 7D2 owners unite! Discuss and post photos!

 
photograma
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Dec 19, 2018 19:55 |  #20836

This camera is very advanced for me coming from my little t2i.so many of the settings confuse me,even after reading manual.
Like the case settings,how do you use them . Ive looked them over but im lost


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Pondrader
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Dec 19, 2018 20:00 |  #20837

photograma wrote in post #18774342 (external link)
This camera is very advanced for me coming from my little t2i.so many of the settings confuse me,even after reading manual.
Like the case settings,how do you use them . Ive looked them over but im lost

Dian... there is no need for you to do much with the different cases until farther down the road when your comfortable with doing so. I used case 5 for the last 4 years and never really moved from that. Most of my gallery was shot with the camera on case 5 and I never really gave it a thought. I know some will say case 1 is all you need... for me 5 was the ticket.


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Archibald
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Dec 19, 2018 20:03 |  #20838

photograma wrote in post #18774342 (external link)
This camera is very advanced for me coming from my little t2i.so many of the settings confuse me,even after reading manual.
Like the case settings,how do you use them . Ive looked them over but im lost

I've had the 7D2 since it came out and am still confused by the case settings. So I use Case 1. :-) Works for me.

The problem is that you never know how the next bird in flight is going to fly, so you can't anticipate which case would be best. And even if you did know beforehand, it is unlikely that you would have practiced enough on similar situations to know what settings work best for it and to have fine-tuned that case.


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RodS57
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Dec 19, 2018 20:21 |  #20839

photograma wrote in post #18774342 (external link)
This camera is very advanced for me coming from my little t2i.so many of the settings confuse me,even after reading manual.
Like the case settings,how do you use them . Ive looked them over but im lost

There was a very good synopsis here somewhere not long ago. The easy answer is to leave it on case 1, the general purpose settings. The rest are just modifications to case 1.

I came from a T3i to the 7D2. Like me you've gone from almost no customizations at all to too many to grasp in a short period of time. For instance I have the * button set to toggle between one shot focus and AI servo. I usually leave my camera in servo all the time but if I want one shot focus temporarily then I just hold the * button in ( if the camera is in one shot focus and I need AI servo, again I just hold the * button in) and that is only a start.

Enjoy and ask lots of questions. Lots of people here ready to help.

Rod


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photograma
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Post edited 2 months ago by photograma.
     
Dec 19, 2018 20:26 |  #20840

But how do you activate the cases. I have. Set my button to back focus.but its about all i understand.


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digital ­ paradise
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Post edited 2 months ago by digital paradise. (4 edits in all)
     
Dec 19, 2018 20:36 |  #20841

photograma wrote in post #18774342 (external link)
This camera is very advanced for me coming from my little t2i.so many of the settings confuse me,even after reading manual.
Like the case settings,how do you use them . Ive looked them over but im lost

Case numbers are responsible for tracking characteristics after initial AF is achieved. Case 1 is the bread and butter and will take care of most of your shooting needs. Cases 2 to 6 are just tweaks. Canon created the case system so that you don't have to remember everything and change the parameters individually in the field. You can if you like but choosing case numbers is faster and easier. If you set the parameters of Case 5 to match case 1 both will do the same thing.

Listen to what the presenter says about case 1 in the first minute.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7sgRZBo-WKI (external link)

That being said here is a summary.

Case 1. Base setting that will cover most shooting situations.

Case 2. If AF point/s go off your subject AF will hang on and not refocus instantly on something else to give you time to reacquire your original subject. This includes your subject being obstructed momentarily by something else.

Case 3. The opposite of Case 2. System will immediately refocuses on another subject when AF point/s fall on it. The intent is that you are already focused on something else first. Good for tracking two runners in a race, you shooting both and are switching from one to another

Case 4. System is more sensitive to objects moving to towards and away from you which includes abrupt stops/starts and increase/decrease in speed from a start point to a finish point.

I prefer to use the next 2 in zone AF modes. If you are using Expansion AF you will have to be as diligent in tracking your subject as in Cases 1 to 4. I use these two Cases when shooting in zone (small cluster) or full Auto. I don’t use Large zone very often.

Case 5. System is more sensitive to left, right, up and down movement.

Case 6. The Grand Poobah. Combines cases 4 and 5. Front to back and up and down erratic movement.


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RodS57
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Dec 19, 2018 20:37 |  #20842

photograma wrote in post #18774355 (external link)
But how do you activate the cases. I have. Set my button to back focus.but its about all i understand.

First, can you find the case listing in the menu? (In the focus menu). Bring up the list and
Use the pad / direction arrows to move to the case you want and press the set button. The little icon for the active case is blue. (had to go check). :-)
Then menu button to exit.

Rod


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 19, 2018 20:39 |  #20843

photograma wrote in post #18774355 (external link)
But how do you activate the cases. I have. Set my button to back focus.but its about all i understand.

In the Purple AF menus. You need to be in AI Servo as they don't work in One Shot.


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 19, 2018 20:45 |  #20844

digital paradise wrote in post #18774359 (external link)
Case numbers are responsible for tracking characteristics after initial AF is achieved. Case 1 is the bread and butter and will take care of most of your shooting needs. Cases 2 to 6 are just tweaks. Canon created the case system so that you don't have to remember everything and change the parameters individually in the field. You can if you like but choosing case numbers is faster and easier. If you set the parameters of Case 5 to match case 1 both will do the same thing.

Listen to what the presenter says about case 1 in the first minute.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7sgRZBo-WKI (external link)

That being said here is a summary.

Case 1. Base setting that will cover most shooting situations.

Case 2. If AF point/s go off your subject AF will hang on and not refocus instantly on something else to give you time to reacquire your original subject. This includes your subject being obstructed momentarily by something else.

Case 3. The opposite of Case 2. System will immediately refocuses on another subject when AF point/s fall on it. The intent is that you are already focused on something else first. Good for tracking two runners in a race, you shooting both and are switching from one to another

Case 4. System is more sensitive to objects moving to towards and away from you which includes abrupt stops/starts and increase/decrease in speed from a start point to a finish point.

I prefer to use the next 2 in zone AF modes. If you are using Single or Expansion AF you will have to be as diligent in tracking your subject as in Cases 1 to 4. I use these two Cases when shooting in zone (small cluster) or full Auto. I don’t use Large zone very often.

Case 5. System is more sensitive to left, right, up and down movement.

Case 6. The Grand Poobah. Combines cases 4 and 5. Front to back and up and down erratic movement.

My apologies for quoting myself but I forgot to add. Don't get hung up on the case numbers. You don't need to master them in the first weekend. Take your time and go slowly. When you experiment look at how the 3 parameter settings change based on the above description.


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 19, 2018 21:39 |  #20845

If you are a BIF enthusiast most birders like to use Case 2. It make the AF more stubborn in not refocusing on something if your AF point goes off the target for momentarily. If you look at the 3 parameters the only one that changes is Tracking Sensitivity (TS). It goes from 0 to -1. -2 makes it even more stubborn and again a favourite of birders so you may want to try Case 2 and set the TS to -2.

Of course if that is what you are into. It is good starting point for any moving target you want AF to hang on to. If you do move that or any parameter you will notice a grey arrow pointing downward. That shows you where the factory setting is so you can set it back easily if you need to.

Procedure

1. Get into the Purple AF menus - TAB 1

2. Scroll with the Quick Control dial to Case 2

3. Press RATE button on the left

4. Press SET button and scroll with the Quick Control dial to desired setting.

4. Press SET button to accept

5. Press RATE button to exit


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Post edited 2 months ago by photograma. (4 edits in all)
     
Dec 19, 2018 21:52 |  #20846

Thank you all,im sorry if im slow in understanding this.yes i have found all the settings, i primarily shoot birds and various wildlife.
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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 19, 2018 22:06 as a reply to  @ photograma's post |  #20847

You are not slow in understanding. It is new, lots of info and takes time to digest at the start.

In 2009 I set my 7D’s TS to -2 and shot like that for 5 years. It had some parameter settings but no case numbers so you needed the manual or a note pad in the field. That is the beauty of the case number sustem that has explanations as well.


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aladyforty
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Dec 19, 2018 22:24 |  #20848

Archibald wrote in post #18774344 (external link)
I've had the 7D2 since it came out and am still confused by the case settings. So I use Case 1. :-) Works for me.

The problem is that you never know how the next bird in flight is going to fly, so you can't anticipate which case would be best. And even if you did know beforehand, it is unlikely that you would have practiced enough on similar situations to know what settings work best for it and to have fine-tuned that case.


Ive never found them confusing, I first used case settings when I got the 5D3 a couple of years before 7D2 and I feel they are quite well explained. I tend to use case 2 80% of the time and case 5 the rest. Never use case 1


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Dec 19, 2018 23:04 |  #20849

aladyforty wrote in post #18774423 (external link)
Ive never found them confusing, I first used case settings when I got the 5D3 a couple of years before 7D2 and I feel they are quite well explained. I tend to use case 2 80% of the time and case 5 the rest. Never use case 1

How do you know case 2 is best for you?


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 19, 2018 23:06 |  #20850

Me too. I never really went beyond case 1 with my 5D3 but I never used it for tracking. Used my 7D and 7D2 for that. Now I use them with my 5D4. My two favourties are 2 and 6 and about the same ratio you use.


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