-= Canon EOS R owners unite! Post photos and discuss.

Pondrader wrote in post #18775880
Well... lol That could be said about every animal in Canada ... I do have a large...... what would you say.... Mmm group of animals that call where I live their home as well. If your outside enough they get to know and see you around and that gives them a more relaxed attitude for my images of them.. same goes for just about every animal around... thus the reason I get so many images of many animals up close.. I use to joke about a critter magnetic in my camera but really its just time in the same bush. These young ones were born this last spring and I never saw them until now.. but their mothers convey a more relaxed attitude toward me so they do the same.. And yet if others come in the yard say a friend they are way more on edge and liable to run. so they can and do recognize us as individuals..

This is using the 70-300L with the 1.6 crop... which is something I have wished for for many years... The 70-300L can not be used with the canon extender as the rear element will hit the extender. so the in body crop ands to the usefulness of the 70-300L . I find that a plus...

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This all sounds so amazing. To be so close as to even recognize newcomers of a deer family and for them to recognize you. Amazing.

First shot with an EF-S lens. My EF-S 18-135mm and for comparison, same basic shot with the RF 24-105mm. Hard to tell the difference, this camera really brings out the best in lenses!

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Just got my EOS R. I've been blown away with all the features. I am very happy with the R. Yet I am having difficulties using my old Samyang 14mm all manual lens. There is no manual guide and shutter doesn't work, meaning it doesn't take a shot. Am I suppose to set something different if I use all manual lenses? If I simply switch to any EF lenses and turn the switch on the lens to MF, then everything works fine with the Guide and focus. Man, it's an awesome thing. Do I need to wait for their firmware update on this? What am I doing wrong? Or is my R has some defects? Any R users with Samyang or any other all manual lens users out there with a successful story? I'll be happy to hear from you!

In settings, custom function menu 5, release shutter without lens.

Focus peaking is off by default, set it in AF menu. I prefer yellow.

Can’t help you with the focus guide question, I seem to recall that it needs a chipped lens, I could be wrong though...

I addressed most of my servo issues yesterday by maxing these settings out:

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Gel wrote in post #18776440
I addressed most of my servo issues yesterday by maxing these settings out:

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except I think you have it set wrong ?? you moved tracking sensitivity to fast I think it should be set on the slowest point. Once focus locks you want it to stay there on not jump off. so you want sensitively to be slower and stay in place.

Read here. This has been the standard on the new AF systems since the 7D introduction. I dont think the R has changed.......https://www.dpreview.c​om/forums/post/4125878​4

umphotography wrote in post #18776503
except I think you have it set wrong ?? you moved tracking sensitivity to fast I think it should be set on the slowest point. Once focus locks you want it to stay there on not jump off. so you want sensitively to be slower and stay in place.

Read here. This has been the standard on the new AF systems since the 7D introduction. I dont think the R has changed.......https://www.dpreview.c​om/forums/post/4125878​4

It's working better for me than the mid point. To be honest though I've not tried setting it the other way. I read the sensitivity setting being that the higher it is the more sensitive it will be and with the acc / decell tracking it with be more ready to move. Something to try at the next wedding.

Caveat, I didn't rtm.

Edit: Here you go:

'[0] - Standard setting suited for most moving subjects.

[Locked on: -2 / Locked on: -1] - The camera will try to continue focusing the subject even if an obstacle enters the AF points or if the subject strays from the AF points. The -2 setting makes the camera track the target subject longer than with the -1 setting. However, if the camera focuses the wrong subject, it may take slightly longer to switch subjects and refocus the target subject.

[Responsive: +2 / Responsive:+1] Once an AF point tracks a subject, the camera can focus consecutive subjects at different distances. Also effective when you want to always focus on the closest subject. The +2 setting makes it quicker to focus the next consecutive subject than with +1. However, the camera will be more prone to focus on the wrong subject.'

So maybe it's working for me because I'm not loyally focusing on a single subject (i.e. two people on the dancefloor). So if I was solely aiming for one subject then -2 would be ideal but for dancefloor stuff with multiple targets, +2 and could go some way to explain why it seems better.

Gel wrote in post #18776512
It's working better for me than the mid point. To be honest though I've not tried setting it the other way. I read the sensitivity setting being that the higher it is the more sensitive it will be and with the acc / decell tracking it with be more ready to move. Something to try at the next wedding.

Caveat, I didn't rtm.

Edit: Here you go:

'[0] - Standard setting suited for most moving subjects.

[Locked on: -2 / Locked on: -1] - The camera will try to continue focusing the subject even if an obstacle enters the AF points or if the subject strays from the AF points. The -2 setting makes the camera track the target subject longer than with the -1 setting. However, if the camera focuses the wrong subject, it may take slightly longer to switch subjects and refocus the target subject.

[Responsive: +2 / Responsive:+1] Once an AF point tracks a subject, the camera can focus consecutive subjects at different distances. Also effective when you want to always focus on the closest subject. The +2 setting makes it quicker to focus the next consecutive subject than with +1. However, the camera will be more prone to focus on the wrong subject.'

So maybe it's working for me because I'm not loyally focusing on a single subject (i.e. two people on the dancefloor). So if I was solely aiming for one subject then -2 would be ideal but for dancefloor stuff with multiple targets, +2 and could go some way to explain why it seems better.

I shoot weddings as well. I have mine set at slowest setting because I want it to stay locked on the bride and I will re set in on groom when I want to concentrate on him. Interesting that you get good results on a faster setting. I dont want it jumping off to next subject so I have mine set to slow. I have always been told that its the opposite of what we think. We think fast means its quicker to react to changes and stay locked. The experts tell me Slow means is wont switch around as fast and it stays locked on subject better and it does react to another subject . I know I use slow for Birds in flight constantly because I dont want it jumping off the target.. I may be wrong but thats how i have interpreted and how its been explained to me

umphotography wrote in post #18776560
I shoot weddings as well. I have mine set at slowest setting because I want it to stay locked on the bride and I will re set in on groom when I want to concentrate on him. Interesting that you get good results on a faster setting. I dont want it jumping off to next subject so I have mine set to slow. I have always been told that its the opposite of what we think. We think fast means its quicker to react to changes and stay locked. The experts tell me Slow means is wont switch around as fast and it stays locked on subject better and it does react to another subject . I know I use slow for Birds in flight constantly because I dont want it jumping off the target.. I may be wrong but thats how i have interpreted and how its been explained to me

It's interesting how much seems hidden to me with camera settings. I had a bit of a gripe with the R in that when I was using face detect it didn't seem to ready to show me other faces to move to, then my finger slipped and hit a button and it was like the back of the 5D4 again.

There's definitely a huge amount to learn with this camera.

Gel wrote in post #18776618
It's interesting how much seems hidden to me with camera settings. I had a bit of a gripe with the R in that when I was using face detect it didn't seem to ready to show me other faces to move to, then my finger slipped and hit a button and it was like the back of the 5D4 again.

There's definitely a huge amount to learn with this camera.

MatthewK wrote in post #18776289
I hate to post up issues because I'm not someone who goes out looking for problems; you won't find me intentionally underexposing photos and pushing sliders 10 stops in posts, blathering on about micro contrast, etc.... that's clown stuff. If I run into an issue, it's during normal use that one would encounter while going about their day.

Anyways, ran into some banding in a few photos from last night. Shooting in my living room, light coming from Hue lamps. It sort of looks like flicker from incandescent lights, but I think i had the anti-flicker on because I was shooting my Christmas tree a few frames prior. Anyways, I haven't seen it in any other photos, and at this point don't think it's a big deal, but I will be keeping an eye out for it while shooting in lower light situations. Noise at 12,800 is so well controlled though, this sensor is nice to work with.

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C Scott IV wrote in post #18776317
That is what I saw when trying silent shutter at 1/160th. Turned off silent shutter and is was gone. Someone said the shutter speed was too fast for all the rows of the sensor to record the same amount of light. That was my interpretation anyway.

bbqkid8 wrote in post #18776359
Interesting find. I will see if I can replicate it.

Y’all better start a discussion about rolling shutter and how it relates to mirrorless cameras and silent mode.

i-G12 wrote in post #18776739
Y’all better start a discussion about rolling shutter and how it relates to mirrorless cameras and silent mode.

People worry too much. I just shoot pictures and video, both of which the EOS R excel at.

Fortunately for me, my bar doesn't reach above what the EOS R can do in my hands.

From "wildlife in the parklands" to "wild life in the city". We parked in the parklands car park and the flippy screen helped me get low down with the Eastern Water Dragon.

We then went to the night time Xmas Parade in the city where the EOS R at ISO3200 + Topaz AI Clear, proved a remarkably good combination in managing unwanted noise.

The Xmas parade had street lighting, shop front lighting, etc. so a bit of a hotchpotch of colour balance.


Cheers

Dennis

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C Scott IV wrote in post #18776317
That is what I saw when trying silent shutter at 1/160th. Turned off silent shutter and is was gone. Someone said the shutter speed was too fast for all the rows of the sensor to record the same amount of light. That was my interpretation anyway.

Silent shutter = slow rolling electronic shutter. Bad news for fast shutter speeds and any motion of camera, subject, or modulation of lighting. Like a fast shutter speed with the curtains, but much, much worse. Unfortunately, many important photos will be taken in this mode with disastrous results because people don''t realize its weaknesses. It should be called "Strobing Jello Quiet Mode" to give the full picture.

John Sheehy wrote in post #18776882
Silent shutter = slow rolling electronic shutter. Bad news for fast shutter speeds and any motion of camera, subject, or modulation of lighting. Like a fast shutter speed with the curtains, but much, much worse. Unfortunately, many important photos will be taken in this mode with disastrous results because people don''t realize its weaknesses. It should be called "Strobing Jello Quiet Mode" to give the full picture.

My Olympus has this option and it's advised not to use the electronic shutter if you want quality photos.
Probably a' weekness' not related to specific cameras

Only small minds and shallow thinking hold back the really talented..... Some of us are beyond such things...