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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 14:25
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Show us your setup and the final result!

 
RicoTudor
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Jan 11, 2019 10:22 |  #11506

Thanks to a dizzying array of reflective surfaces both metallic and fabric, this art piece has been my most vexing project ever. I had to tear down the first lighting setup and start again, but results now look pretty good—after three days. I'm aiming for a Nordstrom catalog look. Result first:

IMAGE: http://makino.fi/rico/canon/misc/goldpurse3.jpg

Artist calls it "50 Shades of Gold". This is my first shot on glass and it makes alpha-channel generation much easier. See my past posts on this technique. The numerous reflections off this subject onto the glass from the lighting tableau were automatically suppressed by the alpha channel. Easy peasy! A large key was required to wrap the specular around the two globes of the kissing lock. Those damned things can see the whole studio, so light placement must illuminate the piece and create an aesthetically pleasing catchlight:

IMAGE: http://makino.fi/rico/fm/goldpurse3b.jpg

Those globes can even see the floor and the velvet used for alpha generation (seen as green coloring over white paper).

The setup:

IMAGE: http://makino.fi/rico/fm/goldpurse4.jpg

Points of interest: (A) left backdrop stand; (B) overhead stand w/top-hinge floppy; (C) stand with Speedlight for accent; (D) Photoflex panel w/silver reflector fabric; (E) stand for subject; (F) foam core for frontal fill; (G) stand with diffuser panel for key; (H) stand for boom holding striplight key.

The paper b/g was initially lit by flash but glare off the glass made alpha generation nearly impossible. I then used the overhead fluorescents and those gave glare problems, too. The 4'x4' floppy is hard to see but is quite huge when unfurled and blots out all direct light overhead. 32 sqft of Duvetyne is the heavy artillery of flagging.

Ensuring that everything sparkled nicely required tuning light sizes and placement. For the key, that involved swinging the strip light (no problem with a junior boom), and adjusting the barndoors. For the accent, I needed to find the right altitude that caught the metal bits but didn't generate secondary shadows. Key energy was 150J, accent was under 1J. I also had to find the best cant for the table. The table, BTW, was constructed from a picture frame as supported by grip arms. Closeup:

IMAGE: http://makino.fi/rico/fm/goldpurse5.jpg

Points of interest: (I) world's smallest V-flat at 1" tall :D; (J) black velvet on the side; (K) diffusion panel of Rosco Tough Rolux taped to $20 MSE 2'x3' frame (love those things); (L) Profoto StripLight (more than $20).

I'm particularly pleased with that table—you can never have too many grip arms! Okay, I should get a proper shooting table with a big sheet of glass or acrylic.

Canon, Nikon, Contax, Leica, Sony, Profoto.

  
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bobbyz
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Jan 11, 2019 10:45 |  #11507

Nice setup and very detailed. Thanks. One thing on the bottom side middle of the bag, there is a small section which looks like threads are cut off. Shouldn't be there, IMHO.


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F2Bthere
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Jan 12, 2019 01:44 |  #11508

Thanks for the great description and well-labeled BTS images.

A most impressive and useful contribution.

RicoTudor wrote in post #18789329 (external link)
I'm particularly pleased with that table—you can never have too many grip arms! Okay, I should get a proper shooting table with a big sheet of glass or acrylic.

"Proper shooting table"? What the heck is that? I thought two solid adjustable saw horses were the perfect shooting table :).


C&C always welcomed...
On my images, of course, and on my words as well--as long as it's constructive :).
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fotopaul
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Post edited 5 days ago by fotopaul.
     
Jan 12, 2019 02:45 |  #11509

RicoTudor wrote in post #18789329 (external link)
Okay, I should get a proper shooting table with a big sheet of glass or acrylic.


Well it certainly can help for some projects, mostly because it's assembled and ready to go.

But a pair of sawhorses, sheet of acrylic and a couple of clamps often do the job as well.

As for you image and bts.

Nicely done, many photographers who shoot this would rely on post work to clean up the reflections. I applaud you for making the effort and do it in camera! Well done!

This is the shooting table we have in the studio, handy but not necessary.


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fotopaul
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Post edited 5 days ago by fotopaul.
     
Jan 12, 2019 03:19 |  #11510

From a recent quick food shoot, a rather simple 2 light setup.

Keylight ELB 1200 with 145x145cm Litemotiv Indirect, kicker ELB 500 TTL with reflector and grid.

This was a quick shoot done for web and social media, so I spent 2 hours on location tops. (including rig time)
No food styling and no PS retouch is done, Raw conversion only in C1.

BTS clip




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RicoTudor
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Jan 12, 2019 04:33 |  #11511

fotopaul wrote in post #18789903 (external link)
This was a quick shoot done for web and social media, so I spent 2 hours on location tops. (including rig time)
No food styling and no PS retouch is done, Raw conversion only in C1.

Awesome color palette and lively lighting! I aspire to reach that level.


Canon, Nikon, Contax, Leica, Sony, Profoto.

  
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RicoTudor
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Jan 12, 2019 05:29 |  #11512

bobbyz wrote in post #18789340 (external link)
One thing on the bottom side middle of the bag, there is a small section which looks like threads are cut off. Shouldn't be there, IMHO.

Yeah, there's a worn section along that seam. I did trim it back but should have gone all the way, I guess. Also removed a couple of stray threads. For an actual store catalog, the goal is visual perfection of the item for sale. In art, however, imperfection lends authenticity. Fixing the "flaws" may even violate artist intent. I'm fascinated by certain kinds of pottery, often Japanese, where the medium lends itself to one-of-a-kind pieces with flaws ranging from shape to color to finish. One style is Oribe as described in Wikipedia:

"Oribe ware is a type of Japanese stoneware recognized by its freely-applied glaze as well as its dramatic visual departure from the more somber, monochrome shapes and vessels common in Raku ware of the time. The ceramics were often asymmetrical, embracing the eccentricity of randomized shapes. Deformed shapes were not at all uncommon. These shapes were achieved through the implementation of moulding as a technique, as opposed to working on a potter’s wheel. Sometimes, bowls were so deformed that they became difficult to use- whisking tea could even become a difficult task. The designs on most Oribe ware are richly colored, with blue, green, and copper glazes appearing most often. The deformed shapes of these ceramics are central to their aesthetic."

Pottery makes an excellent subject for tabletop, although I don't generally cut it from the surroundings with an alpha channel.

Ref: https://en.wikipedia.o​rg/wiki/Oribe_ware (external link)


Canon, Nikon, Contax, Leica, Sony, Profoto.

  
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bobbyz
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Post edited 5 days ago by bobbyz.
     
Jan 12, 2019 09:28 as a reply to  @ fotopaul's post |  #11513

Paul thanks for posting the BTS video. Helps folks like me just starting. Only yesterday I was thinking of putting a light behind and have some glasses in between to make a sun shining through look. Need to start practicing more at least on the weekends.


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fotopaul
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Jan 12, 2019 10:07 |  #11514

bobbyz wrote in post #18790036 (external link)
Paul thanks for posting the BTS video. Helps folks like me just starting. Only yesterday I was thinking of putting a light behind and have some glasses in between to make a sun shining through look. Need to start practicing more at least on the weekends.

It's a really simple light setup and should be quite easy to replicate. One large source to the side and a hard from the back. Pretty much any reflector and grid will work. Just make sure you control the angle and have a hood on your lens to reduce flare.

If you go for a more head-on fov you just move the kicker to one of the side corners and point it inwards to the middle of the shot. (to avoid the stand and light in the frame)

This particular shot does not have a very exciting background, which is why I opted for the bottles, to begin with. I tried to pick colors close to the ones in the food. Normally i do not have so many but rather one that lights goes thru, there is a fine line taking to much attention from the food to complimenting it. I feel im on the edge here for sure.. :-)


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Methodical
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Post edited 5 days ago by Methodical.
     
Jan 12, 2019 12:05 |  #11515

Nice, simple setup with a great image. That's what I'm looking to do. What size umbrella you use? How far is the person from the backdrop?

Thanks


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PExpo
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Jan 12, 2019 21:23 |  #11516

Methodical wrote in post #18790113 (external link)
Nice, simple setup with a great image. That's what I'm looking to do. What size umbrella you use? How far is the person from the backdrop?

Thanks

This was the Paul C Buff Einstein 640 strobe in an 86" White Umbrella with black outer cover and white diffusion fabric

The model was approximately 6-7ft from the backdrop which I did mostly because I have the Fashion Grey Savage Backdrop which is too light for my taste so I moved my model away to make the drop appear darker


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mhickman
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Jan 13, 2019 13:33 |  #11517

First snow of ‘19 for us, and my wife was saying she doesn’t have a recent profile photo for Facebook. So, out we went! I used a V860II with a ring softbox at first and then switched to the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 HSS (AD600) for the rest. The setup allowed me to work in the snow without getting the light wet.


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Lincoln69
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Jan 13, 2019 23:32 |  #11518


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Still working with lights.

Godox 860 camera left 1/8 output Broncolor 85 cm white bounce umbrella both sides
" " right 1/64 output
F4 1/200 iso 200 85mm

Canon 5D 2 Canon 24-105L

I am not totally satisfied, but getting there.

Still looking for glamour model.



  
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Methodical
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Jan 16, 2019 17:58 |  #11519

PExpo wrote in post #18790473 (external link)
This was the Paul C Buff Einstein 640 strobe in an 86" White Umbrella with black outer cover and white diffusion fabric

The model was approximately 6-7ft from the backdrop which I did mostly because I have the Fashion Grey Savage Backdrop which is too light for my taste so I moved my model away to make the drop appear darker

Thanks. One more question. What trigger do you use to fire the Einstein? Curious.


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Methodical
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Jan 16, 2019 18:02 |  #11520

Lincoln69 wrote in post #18791214 (external link)
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forum: Flash and Studio Lighting


Still working with lights.

Godox 860 camera left 1/8 output Broncolor 85 cm white bounce umbrella both sides
" " right 1/64 output
F4 1/200 iso 200 85mm

Canon 5D 2 Canon 24-105L

I am not totally satisfied, but getting there.

Still looking for glamour model.

Question. When you say "camera left" are you referring to the flash is to the left of the camera? I ask because I've been trying to nail this down, but I see folks use the therm "camera left or right" differently - some refer to flash and some refer to the position they shot from - at least from my perspective of where I see the lighting hitting the subject.

Thanks...


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