Sony Lounge Thread MKIII (All Sony cameras welcome)

xpfloyd wrote in post #18808167
Beneficial for all shooting. It meters for the highlights and then you push it 1-2 stops depending on how backlit it is. That way the highlights are not blown but you also have clean shadows. I have mine setup so that when the EC dial says 0 it’s actually +1 so that I don’t need to move it a all the time (when saving the M positions in the memory you can add on EC through the settings). I then add a bit on for the shots that require it

Are you shooting in Manual and it just changes the light meter to prioritize the highlights or are you shooting in AV/TV and the camera is exposing that way?

I think I really need to play around with these metering modes more.

Dlee13 wrote in post #18808168
Are you shooting in Manual and it just changes the light meter to prioritize the highlights or are you shooting in AV/TV and the camera is exposing that way?

I think I really need to play around with these metering modes more.

I’m shooting in Av. mainly but with auto iso. I have a custom button set for my auto iso to change between “slower, slow, fast, faster” etc. So if it’s a static object I quickly change to “slower” and allow ibis to do its thing and have the lowest iso possible. If im then shooting a person I’ll change to “fast” or “faster” to attain 1/125 minimum SS. It’s very quick to switch this way. All the time I’m in highlight priority and tweaking the EC dial if it’s backlit

xpfloyd wrote in post #18808169
I’m shooting in Av. mainly but with auto iso. I have a custom button set for my auto iso to change between “slower, slow, fast, faster” etc. So if it’s a static object I quickly change to “slower” and allow ibis to do its thing and have the lowest iso possible. If im then shooting a person I’ll change to “fast” or “faster” to attain 1/125 minimum SS. It’s very quick to switch this way. All the time I’m in highlight priority and tweaking the EC dial if it’s backlit

Oh in that case I'm not sure if that technique will work as well for me since I shoot in manual only? Thanks for sharing it though and I do occasionally shoot in AV (On DSLR I was in AV 80% of the time) but I find I like shooting in Manual now thanks to the EVF

I switched to evaluative (?) a while ago for the whole scene. I found shooting landscapes it gave me a more accurate exposure and when shooting the car event stuff gave me a much more consistent exposure. I generally shoot Av with about 20% manual - usually moving water to control/balance everything and panoramic images.

Dlee13 wrote in post #18808171
Oh in that case I'm not sure if that technique will work as well for me since I shoot in manual only? Thanks for sharing it though and I do occasionally shoot in AV (On DSLR I was in AV 80% of the time) but I find I like shooting in Manual now thanks to the EVF

Yeah if shooting manual I’m not sure it will work. I don’t trust what I see in the evf for exposure as the brightness can affect it for me. I prefer av mode with auto iso. Just a personal preference

Oddly I was pretty much full time manual on dslr. I shoot landscapes manually though on Sony

xpfloyd wrote in post #18808210
Yeah if shooting manual I’m not sure it will work. I don’t trust what I see in the evf for exposure as the brightness can affect it for me. I prefer av mode with auto iso. Just a personal preference

Oddly I was pretty much full time manual on dslr. I shoot landscapes manually though on Sony

I think the highlight mode would be fine but doubt EC would work unless you are using auto ISO.

On DSLR I would use M with auto ISO if it was low light and I wanted my exposure to be 1/FL but it was really strong light I would just use AV with ISO set to 100.

The majority of what I shoot on Sony is fairy set and more in the still life end of things which is why I use M.

digital_AM wrote in post #18808088
Channeling my inner Ben Horne for this shot of a wash in Death Valley. The sky held some promise as we waited for sunset. I found this S curve along the wash and setup my composition to include the cracked mud tiles in my foreground.

FE 16-35 GM (2 image focus stack)

IMAGE LINK: https://www.alfredomor​aphoto.com …oads/n-KGp2Jw/i-svGLsDh/A

Really nice setup on this one, I remember you working this spot, great result.

Do you find you have a LOT of vertical/portrait orientation images...most of mine are...Justin said the same.

MedicineMan4040 wrote in post #18808103
The curves adds a lot.

Thanks MM.

TRhoads wrote in post #18808239
Really nice setup on this one, I remember you working this spot, great result.

Do you find you have a LOT of vertical/portrait orientation images...most of mine are...Justin said the same.

Thank you Travis. There was somebody shooting in the distance. Not sure if it was you or Justin.

Yes, I have a lot of vertical images from this trip. Pretty interesting.

digital_AM wrote in post #18808254
Thanks MM.

Thank you Travis. There was somebody shooting in the distance. Not sure if it was you or Justin.

Yes, I have a lot of vertical images from this trip. Pretty interesting.

I think it was me.

Went out to Arizona with the family for the wife's convention last month, so much to shoot--but tough with the kids in tow.

I'll try to spread out the pics, as was so much to shoot between PHX/Sedona/Bearizona.

IMAGE LINK: https://www.flickr.com …084449883/in/ph​otostream/

DSC02864_DxO

IMAGE LINK: https://www.flickr.com …997295142/in/ph​otostream/

DSC02871_DxO

Photo from mickeyb105's gallery.

Dlee13 wrote in post #18808099
Sorry if this has been asked before but what Metering Mode does everyone shoot in?

I have left mine on Multi and never touched it but I did notice when shooting in M, the camera will say it is perfectly exposed (0ev) although it does appear dark in both the RAW/JPEG files. Below is an example.

Hosted photo: posted by PhotosByDlee in
./showthread.php?p=188​08099&i=i223036807
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

These are JPEG SOOC. The top image is in multi mode at 0EV and the bottom is entire screen average at 0ev.

As you can see the bottom image is brighter and more properly exposed IMO. I did get a highlight zebra warning for one of the OOF cologne bottles (the black and silver one behind CK One) so I'm not sure if multi tries to prioritze and save the highlights as its top priority.

Has anyone else noticed this?

I use multi for 98% of shots with spot metering for some shots (backlit shots)

Twin rocks at the Racetrack Playa before sunset

Loxia 21

IMAGE LINK: https://www.alfredomor​aphoto.com …oads/n-KGp2Jw/i-qnP3kBS/A

Dlee13 wrote in post #18808099
Sorry if this has been asked before but what Metering Mode does everyone shoot in?

I have left mine on Multi and never touched it but I did notice when shooting in M, the camera will say it is perfectly exposed (0ev) although it does appear dark in both the RAW/JPEG files. Below is an example.

Hosted photo: posted by PhotosByDlee in
./showthread.php?p=188​08099&i=i223036807
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

These are JPEG SOOC. The top image is in multi mode at 0EV and the bottom is entire screen average at 0ev.

As you can see the bottom image is brighter and more properly exposed IMO. I did get a highlight zebra warning for one of the OOF cologne bottles (the black and silver one behind CK One) so I'm not sure if multi tries to prioritze and save the highlights as its top priority.

Has anyone else noticed this?

With my a7r3, I also like using Spot Metering tied to Focus Point Link so that wherever my Flexible Spot focus point is, it will meter for proper exposure at that point. I think this is very useful for portraits or images of single objects.

Note too how multi metering works when Face Priority is also selected.

From the 'Help Guide'

digital_AM wrote in post #18808349
Twin rocks at the Racetrack Playa before sunset

Loxia 21

IMAGE LINK: https://www.alfredomor​aphoto.com …oads/n-KGp2Jw/i-qnP3kBS/A

I like the reverse leading lines that lead away from the main subjects to the vista behind them.

xpfloyd wrote in post #18808169
I’m shooting in Av. mainly but with auto iso. I have a custom button set for my auto iso to change between “slower, slow, fast, faster” etc. So if it’s a static object I quickly change to “slower” and allow ibis to do its thing and have the lowest iso possible. If im then shooting a person I’ll change to “fast” or “faster” to attain 1/125 minimum SS. It’s very quick to switch this way. All the time I’m in highlight priority and tweaking the EC dial if it’s backlit

This is what I am trying after watching the Mark Galer video about it.