Questions using a Star Tracker

I just bought a Skyguider Pro and am curious on a couple things.


Does using a ball head attached to the plate effect accuracy?

I would assume any added length from the axis the star tracker turns on would have an effect on accuracy. IE the more distance you put between the fulcrum of the tracker and the camera being used will increase the arch the camera sees, ultimately causing the camera rig to go faster than if it was simply on the base plate of the tracker. The more length you add, the more inaccurate it will be.

How do you measure sensor temp?
What is a reasonable sensor temp?

It makes sense the longer the exposure, the hotter it gets. But what are the responsible limits for a:

5D3
7D2

Thanks in advance.

I just ordered one yesterday so I will like to know the answers as well if there is any effect

Yes : https://astrobackyard.​com …tracker-astrophotography/

Well mine turned up today so I have some study to do and then get out and give it a go

Celestron wrote in post #18945288

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forum: Astronomy & Celestial

Do you have a link to this head you ordered ? That looks like a telescope mount head for a telescope . I'd like to check it out and see how that one works .

Its part of the pro kit I received but they sell it separately and its called "Fine tuning mounting assembly "

Skywatchers are suppose to be very good mounts . Let us know how it works .

Celestron wrote in post #18945723
Skywatchers are suppose to be very good mounts . Let us know how it works .

Yes I will just reading up on how it works

Here is the mount off the tracker

Sure, you don't want the camera swinging around on the end of a 3 foot pole! But in my experience, a rigid tripod and wedge will do more for tracking accuracy than saving half an inch with a shorter ball head. FWIW, I'm using a multi-hinge Bogen 'flippy thing' head on my setup, with good results. Smoothing the two cone bearings on the Bogen with lapping compound made the head noticeably more sturdy. The bogen's extra axis also allows me to rotate the camera's field of view 90 to 180+ degrees, a much improved situation compared to a ball, which is hard-pressed to even point to some areas of the sky. On the down side, I need to flop everything around when switching to a subject on the other side of the ecliptic.