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Thread started 09 Jun 2017 (Friday) 10:57
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Sony Lounge Thread MKIII (All Sony cameras welcome)

 
Ben ­ DDS
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Feb 05, 2020 09:51 |  #37036

AlanU wrote in post #19004280 (external link)
I think this would be a perfect opportunity to visit a store and check both out.

In my particular case the Tamron 17-28mm came out after I purchased the GM16-35mm. Since it did not exist at the time I was in the market there was really only the native GM16-35 f/2.8 for a fast f/2.8 option.

Questions you should ask yourself is if 28mm is long enough for you for other purposes. 17mm is only 1mm difference than 16mm but some may find an issue with that.

Once you hand hold the 17-28mm and want small form factor you may just be over the moon in saving $1300 USD vs buying the GM16-35mm. The Tammy 17-28mm is tiny!!!

I use my UWA zoom lens for general purpose. 35mm is extremely important and is worth for me to go with the GM.

In post processing I think in many cases IQ wise the Tammy vs GM can be equalized and almost on par. The thing about lenses is we all may have some sort of preference to how the glass renders. For example my recent purchase of the Sigma 24-70mm ART zoom, it seems to render different to all of my Sony dedicated glass. The colour and render is much more pleasant straight out of camera vs even my Gmaster 16-35mm or Tamron 28-75mm.

If I wasn't so stuck on requiring 35mm on the long end my "sensibility" would push me to go Tamron and use the extra cash on other lenses to supplement the gear bag.

Thanks for your perspective! Since picking up the 105Art, I've been toying with the idea of selling the magnificent 50 Art in favor of a wider range zoom. Currently using an adapted Rokinon 14mm, the 50Art, and the 105Art, so there are a lot of gaps in focal length. I could probably get by with either a 16-35 or 24-70 to fill a lot of that. I tend to enjoy using primes more, but I do find myself a little limited with my current setup. I will never part with this 105!




  
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DTBaan
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Feb 05, 2020 10:58 |  #37037

Dlee13 wrote in post #19004119 (external link)
The aperture ring? Funny you say that as that’s the one thing I don’t like about the lens haha. I much prefer what Canon done with their RF lenses and made the customizable ring. I remember the other day I was wondering why my exposure was so dark all of a sudden and it was because of that ring! lol

You cover a lot of range with that kit! My next trip will probably be 18mm, 24 GM and FE 85mm!

I thought it was just your preference of processing your pictures :P




  
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Charlie
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Feb 05, 2020 11:15 |  #37038

Dlee13 wrote in post #19004119 (external link)
The aperture ring? Funny you say that as that’s the one thing I don’t like about the lens haha. I much prefer what Canon done with their RF lenses and made the customizable ring. I remember the other day I was wondering why my exposure was so dark all of a sudden and it was because of that ring! lol

You cover a lot of range with that kit! My next trip will probably be 18mm, 24 GM and FE 85mm!

I dont like the ring either, I'm more of a fan of nothing on the lens, no buttons, switches, anything like the tamrons, just for the sake of consistency. I have IS, AF/MF mapped, so dont need it. I have one of the lens creep rubber bands on the aperture wheel, no accidents.


Sony A7siii/A7iv/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
Panasonic GH6 - Laowa 7.5/2 - PL 15/1.7 - P 42.5/1.8 - OM 75/1.8 - PL 10-25/1.7 - P 12-32 - P 14-140

  
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TRhoads
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Feb 05, 2020 11:15 |  #37039

Dlee13 wrote in post #19004119 (external link)
The aperture ring? Funny you say that as that’s the one thing I don’t like about the lens haha. I much prefer what Canon done with their RF lenses and made the customizable ring. I remember the other day I was wondering why my exposure was so dark all of a sudden and it was because of that ring! lol

You cover a lot of range with that kit! My next trip will probably be 18mm, 24 GM and FE 85mm!

You can turn it all the way to one end and it will be controlled like other lenses by the camera.


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Itsed65
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Feb 05, 2020 11:21 |  #37040

Morning Mist

IMAGE: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49485212813_b8c4f99a17_h.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2ioQ​DJn  (external link)
Morning Mist in B&W (external link) by lennycarl08 (external link), on Flickr

Fuji XT-2, XT-3, Sony A1, A7RIV, A9, and an OM-1
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DTBaan
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Feb 05, 2020 12:58 |  #37041

vipergts831 wrote in post #19003700 (external link)
I agree with you both which is why I loved the files I got out of the original A7S. 12 mp gives you such a nice film grain in digital. The R4 shows noise almost instantly when going above iso 200 but I expected that with such a high MP sensor. Both different beasts.

Below a couple of shots with the A7S which I hope to pick up second hand in the next year or so to compliment the R4.

Both taken with the fantastic Sony 55 1.8. The flower shot was a straight raw to jpeg conversion. Nothing applied to it. The second is of my then fiancé (now wife).
Hosted photo: posted by vipergts831 in
./showthread.php?p=190​03700&i=i38347062
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

Hosted photo: posted by vipergts831 in
./showthread.php?p=190​03700&i=i73807528
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

Interesting Omar, the a7s2 with the ibis isn't' being considered? I'm waiting to see what the a7r3 has to offer. I still remember the joke David A. made with these pictures, shot in the dark with shadows recovered lol




  
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Bianchi
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Feb 05, 2020 14:03 |  #37042

Ben DDS wrote in post #19004318 (external link)
Thanks for your perspective! Since picking up the 105Art, I've been toying with the idea of selling the magnificent 50 Art in favor of a wider range zoom. Currently using an adapted Rokinon 14mm, the 50Art, and the 105Art, so there are a lot of gaps in focal length. I could probably get by with either a 16-35 or 24-70 to fill a lot of that. I tend to enjoy using primes more, but I do find myself a little limited with my current setup. I will never part with this 105!

Ditch the Rok 14 and forget about the 16-35 get the well received ART Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 Sony mount. The only way I would buy the 16-35 if I didn't want to deal with the bulbous front and the filters on the Sigma

https://www.fredmirand​a.com/forum/topic/1609​212 (external link)


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Klystron
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Feb 05, 2020 14:10 |  #37043

Why I changed to Sony.

IMAGE: https://drscdn.500px.org/photo/1010306549/m%3D900/v2?sig=afc106a4884d6d8c2526ae07320efd5f5e3272a02d6bef5f9315b16a3c2267f2

Sony A9 ii, A9, A7R II, RX100 va
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AlanU
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Feb 05, 2020 14:13 |  #37044

bobbyz wrote in post #19004308 (external link)
Not sure what is a cooked RAW file. I am using both with LR and C1 and in both Fuji RAW files look the same to me as Sony. Once I have some time, I will do side by side shots.

BTW - I was reading an old article about GFX50s on fstopper. The author said, he found that colors from GFX50s were a bit off. He used to shoot Nikon. Then he did side by side and also compared to real life subjects and guess what, Fuji was the real life. Personally for me I don't care much. One of these days I would be proficient enough in PP to adjust colors. For now it is mostly defaults for me.:)

Cooked RAW is a rather blunt way to say "Fujifilm film look" I suppose. There is a distinct look that Fuji has which is appealing to the masses. I will admit I do not have much experience with GFX files If you took a Sony and Fuji aps-c (NON GFX large format sensor) Be observant and look at the RAW files shooting a landscape photo with a UWA zoom lens on a sunny day. It's incredibly difficult to make the Sony landscape image look painterly/canvas/carto​on like.

The Fuji image completely shapes differently when you post process in lightroom. IF I added Canon RAW files to the mix I'd say they also can look canvas like if you try to lift shadows in landscape photos. Sony images retains a very realistic look in many cases.

Seems Sony is much more "RAW" without a strong "branding" or cooked manufactured signature look compared to Fuji APS-c.

Fuji RAW files for my previous workflow with that system was almost effortless in Lightroom. You can make the images easy on the eyes with so little effort. Sony Raw files definitely feel a lot more different post processing.

Fuji files has an almost instant "easy on the eyes" look. I prefer Sony wildlife, landscape images vs Fuji aps-c. In my automotive events documentation I enjoy using Sony a lot more than my Canon system. Due to realism.


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Sony 2 x A7iii w/ Sigma MC-11 adapter | GM16-35 f/2.8 | Sigma 24-70 ART | GM70-200 f/2.8 |Sigma Art 24 f/1.4 | Sigma ART 35 f/1.2 | FE85 f/1.8 | Sigma ART 105 f/1.4 | Godox V860iiS & V1S

  
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PhotosByDlee
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Feb 05, 2020 14:38 |  #37045

Ben DDS wrote in post #19004241 (external link)
Congrats! I'd really like to hear your thoughts as I'm in the market for a landscape lens by this summer. I'm stuck between this and the Tam 17-28 which is a similar focal length to the 16-35 you sold.

I think it really depends on what you use the lens for. I prefer primes and with my use, I don't really need a UWA from what I've realized.

When I travel, I use my 35mm majority of the time and only carry the 16-35 with me if I want to shoot an urban landscape and want something really wide. In these instances, I am often on a tripod so can easily just make a panorama if 24mm isn't wide enough.

Being wider than 35mm, 24mm is a bit more versatile too so I find I can replace my zoom with it. I also plan to buy either the Samyang 18mm f/2.8 or if released, the Sigma 16mm f/2 (currently a patent only) and use that for if I REALLY need something super wide. The Samyang is really small and light so both that and the 24mm will be roughly the same weight as the 16-35.

Actually IQ wise, I love the 24GM. I took a self portrait of sorts and it's way too sharp to actually post as my skin looked so horrible! haha.

DTBaan wrote in post #19004360 (external link)
I thought it was just your preference of processing your pictures :P

haha yeah 6 stops under exposed , has a real unique look to it :lol:

Charlie wrote in post #19004366 (external link)
I dont like the ring either, I'm more of a fan of nothing on the lens, no buttons, switches, anything like the tamrons, just for the sake of consistency. I have IS, AF/MF mapped, so dont need it. I have one of the lens creep rubber bands on the aperture wheel, no accidents.

Can't say I disagree with you, even with lenses that have buttons I use the body to change all the settings. I don't mind how some of the lenses have the focus hold button that you can use for Eye AF.

TRhoads wrote in post #19004368 (external link)
You can turn it all the way to one end and it will be controlled like other lenses by the camera.

Yeah I have it clicked and on A but can still move easily like the other day. I remember in Jared Polin's review he found it getting knocked onto f/16 too.


Sony Alpha A7 Mark IV - Sony FE PZ 16-35mm f/4 G - Sony FE 35mm f/1.4 GM - Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DN Art - Tamron 70-180mm f/2.8
FujiFilm X-S10 - Fujifilm XF 33mm f/1.4 R LM WR

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MedicineMan4040
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Feb 05, 2020 14:45 |  #37046

Back from a quick trip to Florida. Poof not feeling well on the trip but saw what we could. Here's one from
Merrit Island/Blackpoint drive.

IMAGE: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49493816426_12611079f8_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2ipA​Khw  (external link) 6 days in Florida #1 (external link) by MedicineMan4040 (external link), on Flickr

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Ben ­ DDS
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Feb 05, 2020 15:16 |  #37047

Bianchi wrote in post #19004461 (external link)
Ditch the Rok 14 and forget about the 16-35 get the well received ART Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 Sony mount. The only way I would buy the 16-35 if I didn't want to deal with the bulbous front and the filters on the Sigma

https://www.fredmirand​a.com/forum/topic/1609​212 (external link)

It's definitely been a lens I've been considering. The bulbous element on the Rok 14 is a little annoying as I prefer front screw in filters.




  
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bobbyz
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Feb 05, 2020 15:28 |  #37048

AlanU wrote in post #19004464 (external link)
Cooked RAW is a rather blunt way to say "Fujifilm film look" I suppose. There is a distinct look that Fuji has which is appealing to the masses. I will admit I do not have much experience with GFX files If you took a Sony and Fuji aps-c (NON GFX large format sensor) Be observant and look at the RAW files shooting a landscape photo with a UWA zoom lens on a sunny day. It's incredibly difficult to make the Sony landscape image look painterly/canvas/carto​on like.

The Fuji image completely shapes differently when you post process in lightroom. IF I added Canon RAW files to the mix I'd say they also can look canvas like if you try to lift shadows in landscape photos. Sony images retains a very realistic look in many cases.

Seems Sony is much more "RAW" without a strong "branding" or cooked manufactured signature look compared to Fuji APS-c.

Fuji RAW files for my previous workflow with that system was almost effortless in Lightroom. You can make the images easy on the eyes with so little effort. Sony Raw files definitely feel a lot more different post processing.

Fuji files has an almost instant "easy on the eyes" look. I prefer Sony wildlife, landscape images vs Fuji aps-c. In my automotive events documentation I enjoy using Sony a lot more than my Canon system. Due to realism.

Does the camera know if I am taking landscapes or portrait? The colors etc should be the same way, isn't it? I am not a landscape person but here is one shot I took with XT1, which is pretty old camera and I used the 18-55mm kit lens. I did my best to process the shot. Not sure what the painterly, canvas, cartoon look you keep mentioning.

IMAGE: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49493484998_9e4df62c6d_h.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2ipz​3Lf  (external link) 20190811_Family_1670 (external link) by Vishi A (external link), on Flickr

Sony FF would have done better but due to larger sensor, colors wise won't be much different. After all, Sony, Fuji, Nikon are all using the same sensor tech.

Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
Sony A7rIV, , Tamron 28-200mm, Sigma 40mm f1.4 Art FE, Sony 85mm f1.8 FE, Sigma 105mm f1.4 Art FE
Fuji GFX50s, 23mm f4, 32-64mm, 45mm f2.8, 110mm f2, 120mm f4 macro
Canon 24mm TSE-II, 85mm f1.2 L II, 90mm TSE-II Macro, 300mm f2.8 IS I

  
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AlanU
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Feb 05, 2020 16:07 |  #37049

bobbyz wrote in post #19004505 (external link)
Does the camera know if I am taking landscapes or portrait? The colors etc should be the same way, isn't it? I am not a landscape person but here is one shot I took with XT1, which is pretty old camera and I used the 18-55mm kit lens. I did my best to process the shot. Not sure what the painterly, canvas, cartoon look you keep mentioning.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2ipz​3Lf  (external link) 20190811_Family_1670 (external link) by Vishi A (external link), on Flickr

Sony FF would have done better but due to larger sensor, colors wise won't be much different. After all, Sony, Fuji, Nikon are all using the same sensor tech.

I uplifted shadows with little post processing with this Fuji image. The cartoon look will happen if you try to lift shadows. This also easily happens with Canon files......NOT Sony files. Bobby in the summer take photos with your A7r4 of a landscape/trees. You will see the realism in the image that would be difficult to achieve a canvas/artistic painting look.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2019/04/5/LQ_974871.jpg
Photo from AlanU's gallery.
Image hosted by forum (974871)


With my Sony you would have difficulty getting this kind of painterly look. With sony being aggressive with "dehaze" in the opposite direction adding "haze" to get that softer look.

The Boat photos I went to the "-" on dehaze to try to soften the tack sharp image. If I just post processed with no dehaze the image would look real to life as if you were standing there with un edited eyes.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2019/03/4/LQ_969025.jpg
Photo from AlanU's gallery.
Image hosted by forum (969025)

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2019/03/4/LQ_968136.jpg
Photo from AlanU's gallery.
Image hosted by forum (968136)

5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
Fuji - gone
Sony 2 x A7iii w/ Sigma MC-11 adapter | GM16-35 f/2.8 | Sigma 24-70 ART | GM70-200 f/2.8 |Sigma Art 24 f/1.4 | Sigma ART 35 f/1.2 | FE85 f/1.8 | Sigma ART 105 f/1.4 | Godox V860iiS & V1S

  
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vinmunoz
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Feb 05, 2020 17:05 |  #37050

adding 2 stops with A7RIII isn't a problem in low ISO such as 320 as far as i remember.


with the A7RIV zoom to 1/1, here's how it looks. is this normal because it's 1/1 with 61mp? uncompressed

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2020/02/1/LQ_1025320.jpg
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| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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