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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 30 Jul 2020 (Thursday) 11:17
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Bill ­ Bahmer
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Jul 21, 2021 09:45 |  #4531

Monsoon light show in Tucson


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Tom ­ in ­ Arizona
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Jul 21, 2021 09:54 |  #4532

Greater Roadrunner...


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The sound of birds stops the noise in my mind.” - Carly Simon

  
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ClarkinBabler
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Jul 21, 2021 10:15 |  #4533

From our lake house back deck.


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...in an attempt to photograph all 400+ species of birds in Missouri

  
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LJ3Jim
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Jul 21, 2021 10:23 |  #4534

JayLT wrote in post #19262308 (external link)
Some shots of a cicada. These are some weird looking bugs, but they have some interesting features

RF 100mm Macro lens. These are all hand-held stacks of anywhere from 13-20 shots, not using the built-in focus bracketing as I needed to use a flash

There's no cropping on these except for some straightening, the extra magnification of the RF lens really makes a huge difference

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcr​CtH  (external link) R5__4148-Edit-Edit-07-20 (external link) by Jay Cline (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcs​DS4  (external link) R5__4323-Edit-Edit-07-20 (external link) by Jay Cline (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcs​E27  (external link) R5__4304-Edit-07-20 (external link) by Jay Cline (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcw​GNy  (external link) R5__4086-Edit-Edit-07-20 (external link) by Jay Cline (external link), on Flickr

Very nice! If you don't mind me asking, what is your procedure for hand-held focus bracketing? It clearly works well!


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ClarkinBabler
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Post edited 7 days ago by ClarkinBabler.
     
Jul 21, 2021 10:26 |  #4535

Just a moon. 100-400 II handheld.


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...in an attempt to photograph all 400+ species of birds in Missouri

  
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Terrycanon
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Jul 21, 2021 14:11 |  #4536

I've had my R5 now for only a few hours and I am struggling a little. I think that's to be expected after being so used to my 5D IV. This is one of my first efforts, but I'm puzzling particularly over the AF modes. I'd love to know which AF mode you folks find best for insects. I'll get there - just give me a few more hours :-) - but I am wondering how long it was before any of you people made the move from a 5D IV to a R5 and then felt totally at home with the R5. I'd appreciate your thoughts.


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PinholeR5
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Jul 21, 2021 23:34 |  #4537

Green Herons


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JayLT
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Post edited 6 days ago by JayLT.
     
Jul 22, 2021 00:44 |  #4538

LJ3Jim wrote in post #19262445 (external link)
Very nice! If you don't mind me asking, what is your procedure for hand-held focus bracketing? It clearly works well!

Thanks!

It's a process of inevitable frustration, but can give good results on occasion.

Obviously you need a subject that stays still. Any movement can cause odd ghosting issues that can be difficult, or impossible to fix. Sometimes I never notice the movement until I'm going over the pictures, and something on the subject was moved like a leg or an antennae.

For settings, I'm usually using the following (with a flash)

1/200 SS
f/16
ISO 200

One-Shot AF
Spot Focus
Low-Speed Continuous shooting (anything faster than this causes issues with my flash cycling 100% at times)

I adjust flash power as needed to regulate exposure, preferably keeping the flash power at 1/16th or less, as you need it to cycle pretty quickly, and the more power you push the more likely it'll not be able to cycle.

With the R5 I use back-button-focus and have one of the buttons set to use spot-focus. I find spot-focus best for these things. I also have the AF method set to One Shot, you cannot use Servo AF to focus bracketing.

I focus of the part of the subject that I want to be the main feature, usually the eye(s), and then look at the scene. I slowly rock back just enough to to where the closest part (usually a leg or foot) is in focus then I move back just a touch more. Once I'm in that position (everything will look out of focus) I start shooting and slowly move forward towards the subject. You need to do you best to keep the focus point on the same spot as you move forward.

It's a learned process to understand how fast you can move forward with the settings, and sometimes you get it, and sometimes you miss a "slice" and the image looks a bit off. For me, one of the reasons I shoot at f/16 is that the DoF is not too horribly small, so I have some extra room and depending on the subject one of the shots might be good on it's own if for some reason the stack doesn't work out.

Things like that cicada barely move, so they are great subjects, but because they're pretty large you need quite a few shots to get them all, or mostly, in focus. Normally I only do around 5-8 shots, but on that guy I was doing close to 20. To be honest I was surprise they turned out well!


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robamy
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Jul 22, 2021 04:16 |  #4539

IMAGE: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51328550040_a344e15fee_h.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcJ​eEG  (external link) Spider is todays special (external link) by A & R Photography (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51328278714_46fb285047_h.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcG​R1E  (external link) Bluebird with a snack (external link) by A & R Photography (external link), on Flickr

flickr https://www.flickr.com​/photos/robamyphotos/ (external link)
Instagram #RobAmyNature
YouTubehttps://www.youtube.co​m …/UCXHzc4eU2AfHU​CuGW31GNdA (external link)
Vimeo https://vimeo.com/roba​myvideos (external link)

  
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Terrycanon
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Jul 22, 2021 05:51 |  #4540


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It's all about the light...
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LJ3Jim
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Jul 22, 2021 08:59 |  #4541

JayLT wrote in post #19262677 (external link)
Thanks!

It's a process of inevitable frustration, but can give good results on occasion.

Obviously you need a subject that stays still. Any movement can cause odd ghosting issues that can be difficult, or impossible to fix. Sometimes I never notice the movement until I'm going over the pictures, and something on the subject was moved like a leg or an antennae.

For settings, I'm usually using the following (with a flash)

1/200 SS
f/16
ISO 200

One-Shot AF
Spot Focus
Low-Speed Continuous shooting (anything faster than this causes issues with my flash cycling 100% at times)

I adjust flash power as needed to regulate exposure, preferably keeping the flash power at 1/16th or less, as you need it to cycle pretty quickly, and the more power you push the more likely it'll not be able to cycle.

With the R5 I use back-button-focus and have one of the buttons set to use spot-focus. I find spot-focus best for these things. I also have the AF method set to One Shot, you cannot use Servo AF to focus bracketing.

I focus of the part of the subject that I want to be the main feature, usually the eye(s), and then look at the scene. I slowly rock back just enough to to where the closest part (usually a leg or foot) is in focus then I move back just a touch more. Once I'm in that position (everything will look out of focus) I start shooting and slowly move forward towards the subject. You need to do you best to keep the focus point on the same spot as you move forward.

It's a learned process to understand how fast you can move forward with the settings, and sometimes you get it, and sometimes you miss a "slice" and the image looks a bit off. For me, one of the reasons I shoot at f/16 is that the DoF is not too horribly small, so I have some extra room and depending on the subject one of the shots might be good on it's own if for some reason the stack doesn't work out.

Things like that cicada barely move, so they are great subjects, but because they're pretty large you need quite a few shots to get them all, or mostly, in focus. Normally I only do around 5-8 shots, but on that guy I was doing close to 20. To be honest I was surprise they turned out well!

Thank you very much! I'm going to give this a try (static subjects first!).


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Terrycanon
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Jul 22, 2021 09:28 |  #4542

Still getting used to my R5. I like it!


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Tom ­ in ­ Arizona
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Jul 22, 2021 09:30 |  #4543

Gila Woodpecker...


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The sound of birds stops the noise in my mind.” - Carly Simon

  
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clipper_from_oz
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Post edited 3 days ago by clipper_from_oz. (6 edits in all)
     
Jul 22, 2021 11:01 |  #4544

local Double Barred Finch .

Dont normally shoot birds when they are perched on man made structures but decided this was an exception given shot was at 5000 iso, cropped to 80% and massively underexposed yet given all these impediments it still cam out ok !. Especially so in the sharpness department eversince I got my broken and recently repaired 100-400 mk2 back . The lens was quite sharp to start with before i accidentally dropped it on the ground and it needed nearly $2,000 AUD worth of repair .And rather than rightoff the lens which was covered by insurance Canon decided to fix the lens instead. I was sceptical at first repairing this lens on such a major repair outside of a Japan manufacturing environment would be frought with peril and danger with the first thing I expected to lose being the exceptional sharpness that was evident in my particular lens copy. However I got it back and its not just sharp as against what it was previously but its actually gone up a notch somehwere between my lens copy previous sharpness of the 100-400mm long end sharpnes and getting close to my 400mmf2.8 Mk2 and thats scary . A zoom getting close to a prime in sharpness is basically unheard Of! :) Yet here I was with a serious of bird shots I would swear have came from my prime rather than the 100-400 zoom. Dont know what Canon did but its bloody good whatever they have done. Now Im loving my trusty 100-400 again especially as over the last 3 months Ive been mainly using the prime on my r5 . Now thats all about to change as the 100-400 is lighter more versatile and really feels perfectly balanced for the r5 so I can see that returning to a semi permanent mounting scenario and the 400 prime can go on as needed.

Cheers


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Clipper
R5, 5DSR,5DMkII,Fuji XPRO1,X-T1&X-T20,Fotoman 6x17cm Large Format Panorama Camera,Mamiya Universal 6x9
Canon EF 16-35mm f4 L, 17mm TSE f4 L,50mm f1.4, 24-70 f2.8 L, 70-200mm F4 L, 85mm f1.8, 100-400mm II L,
EF 400mm f2.8 IS II L, Fujinon XF18mmf2, XF35mmf1.4, XF60mm f2, XF18-55f2.8-4.5, XF55-200f4
Rodenstock, Sinar& Nikkor LF lens for Pano (75,95,150+210mm)
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clipper_from_oz
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Post edited 6 days ago by clipper_from_oz. (3 edits in all)
     
Jul 22, 2021 11:13 |  #4545

another on at 5000 with a super huge crop. Absolutely no sharpening in Lightroom apart from the default. In addition both have been though Topaz which if anything would have take n the fine sharpness out a little. Not bad sharpness at the 400mm end thats for sure


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Clipper
R5, 5DSR,5DMkII,Fuji XPRO1,X-T1&X-T20,Fotoman 6x17cm Large Format Panorama Camera,Mamiya Universal 6x9
Canon EF 16-35mm f4 L, 17mm TSE f4 L,50mm f1.4, 24-70 f2.8 L, 70-200mm F4 L, 85mm f1.8, 100-400mm II L,
EF 400mm f2.8 IS II L, Fujinon XF18mmf2, XF35mmf1.4, XF60mm f2, XF18-55f2.8-4.5, XF55-200f4
Rodenstock, Sinar& Nikkor LF lens for Pano (75,95,150+210mm)
flickr (external link)

  
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