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Greater Roadrunner...

From our lake house back deck.

JayLT wrote in post #19262308
Some shots of a cicada. These are some weird looking bugs, but they have some interesting features

RF 100mm Macro lens. These are all hand-held stacks of anywhere from 13-20 shots, not using the built-in focus bracketing as I needed to use a flash

There's no cropping on these except for some straightening, the extra magnification of the RF lens really makes a huge difference

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcr​CtH R5__4148-Edit-Edit-07-20 by Jay Cline, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcs​DS4 R5__4323-Edit-Edit-07-20 by Jay Cline, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcs​E27 R5__4304-Edit-07-20 by Jay Cline, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2mcw​GNy R5__4086-Edit-Edit-07-20 by Jay Cline, on Flickr

Very nice! If you don't mind me asking, what is your procedure for hand-held focus bracketing? It clearly works well!

Just a moon. 100-400 II handheld.

I've had my R5 now for only a few hours and I am struggling a little. I think that's to be expected after being so used to my 5D IV. This is one of my first efforts, but I'm puzzling particularly over the AF modes. I'd love to know which AF mode you folks find best for insects. I'll get there - just give me a few more hours - but I am wondering how long it was before any of you people made the move from a 5D IV to a R5 and then felt totally at home with the R5. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Green Herons

LJ3Jim wrote in post #19262445
Very nice! If you don't mind me asking, what is your procedure for hand-held focus bracketing? It clearly works well!

Thanks!

It's a process of inevitable frustration, but can give good results on occasion.

Obviously you need a subject that stays still. Any movement can cause odd ghosting issues that can be difficult, or impossible to fix. Sometimes I never notice the movement until I'm going over the pictures, and something on the subject was moved like a leg or an antennae.

For settings, I'm usually using the following (with a flash)

1/200 SS
f/16
ISO 200

One-Shot AF
Spot Focus
Low-Speed Continuous shooting (anything faster than this causes issues with my flash cycling 100% at times)

I adjust flash power as needed to regulate exposure, preferably keeping the flash power at 1/16th or less, as you need it to cycle pretty quickly, and the more power you push the more likely it'll not be able to cycle.

With the R5 I use back-button-focus and have one of the buttons set to use spot-focus. I find spot-focus best for these things. I also have the AF method set to One Shot, you cannot use Servo AF to focus bracketing.

I focus of the part of the subject that I want to be the main feature, usually the eye(s), and then look at the scene. I slowly rock back just enough to to where the closest part (usually a leg or foot) is in focus then I move back just a touch more. Once I'm in that position (everything will look out of focus) I start shooting and slowly move forward towards the subject. You need to do you best to keep the focus point on the same spot as you move forward.

It's a learned process to understand how fast you can move forward with the settings, and sometimes you get it, and sometimes you miss a "slice" and the image looks a bit off. For me, one of the reasons I shoot at f/16 is that the DoF is not too horribly small, so I have some extra room and depending on the subject one of the shots might be good on it's own if for some reason the stack doesn't work out.

Things like that cicada barely move, so they are great subjects, but because they're pretty large you need quite a few shots to get them all, or mostly, in focus. Normally I only do around 5-8 shots, but on that guy I was doing close to 20. To be honest I was surprise they turned out well!

JayLT wrote in post #19262677
Thanks!

It's a process of inevitable frustration, but can give good results on occasion.

Obviously you need a subject that stays still. Any movement can cause odd ghosting issues that can be difficult, or impossible to fix. Sometimes I never notice the movement until I'm going over the pictures, and something on the subject was moved like a leg or an antennae.

For settings, I'm usually using the following (with a flash)

1/200 SS
f/16
ISO 200

One-Shot AF
Spot Focus
Low-Speed Continuous shooting (anything faster than this causes issues with my flash cycling 100% at times)

I adjust flash power as needed to regulate exposure, preferably keeping the flash power at 1/16th or less, as you need it to cycle pretty quickly, and the more power you push the more likely it'll not be able to cycle.

With the R5 I use back-button-focus and have one of the buttons set to use spot-focus. I find spot-focus best for these things. I also have the AF method set to One Shot, you cannot use Servo AF to focus bracketing.

I focus of the part of the subject that I want to be the main feature, usually the eye(s), and then look at the scene. I slowly rock back just enough to to where the closest part (usually a leg or foot) is in focus then I move back just a touch more. Once I'm in that position (everything will look out of focus) I start shooting and slowly move forward towards the subject. You need to do you best to keep the focus point on the same spot as you move forward.

It's a learned process to understand how fast you can move forward with the settings, and sometimes you get it, and sometimes you miss a "slice" and the image looks a bit off. For me, one of the reasons I shoot at f/16 is that the DoF is not too horribly small, so I have some extra room and depending on the subject one of the shots might be good on it's own if for some reason the stack doesn't work out.

Things like that cicada barely move, so they are great subjects, but because they're pretty large you need quite a few shots to get them all, or mostly, in focus. Normally I only do around 5-8 shots, but on that guy I was doing close to 20. To be honest I was surprise they turned out well!

Thank you very much! I'm going to give this a try (static subjects first!).

Still getting used to my R5. I like it!

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Gila Woodpecker...

local Double Barred Finch .

Dont normally shoot birds when they are perched on man made structures but decided this was an exception given shot was at 5000 iso, cropped to 80% and massively underexposed yet given all these impediments it still cam out ok !. Especially so in the sharpness department eversince I got my broken and recently repaired 100-400 mk2 back . The lens was quite sharp to start with before i accidentally dropped it on the ground and it needed nearly $2,000 AUD worth of repair .And rather than rightoff the lens which was covered by insurance Canon decided to fix the lens instead. I was sceptical at first repairing this lens on such a major repair outside of a Japan manufacturing environment would be frought with peril and danger with the first thing I expected to lose being the exceptional sharpness that was evident in my particular lens copy. However I got it back and its not just sharp as against what it was previously but its actually gone up a notch somehwere between my lens copy previous sharpness of the 100-400mm long end sharpnes and getting close to my 400mmf2.8 Mk2 and thats scary . A zoom getting close to a prime in sharpness is basically unheard Of! Yet here I was with a serious of bird shots I would swear have came from my prime rather than the 100-400 zoom. Dont know what Canon did but its bloody good whatever they have done. Now Im loving my trusty 100-400 again especially as over the last 3 months Ive been mainly using the prime on my r5 . Now thats all about to change as the 100-400 is lighter more versatile and really feels perfectly balanced for the r5 so I can see that returning to a semi permanent mounting scenario and the 400 prime can go on as needed.

Cheers

another on at 5000 with a super huge crop. Absolutely no sharpening in Lightroom apart from the default. In addition both have been though Topaz which if anything would have take n the fine sharpness out a little. Not bad sharpness at the 400mm end thats for sure

another masked lapwing in flight