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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 12 Sep 2019 (Thursday) 14:42
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-= 90D owners unite! Discuss and Post Photos

 
hobs1466
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Jun 23, 2022 15:52 |  #2671

I'm curious. Has anyone else used the Mitakon Zhongyi Creator 35mm f/2 lens? It is a purely manual lens, no auto-focus, no electrical connections to the body. So I set the lens to f/2 (it does f/2 to f/22) and put the camera in manual mode. I figured I'd need to set the aperture on the body as well so that it could correctly calculate exposure, but it only gives me a choice of f/1.4 or f/1.6. What gives?




  
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John ­ Sheehy
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Jun 23, 2022 18:27 |  #2672

hobs1466 wrote in post #19395308 (external link)
I'm curious. Has anyone else used the Mitakon Zhongyi Creator 35mm f/2 lens? It is a purely manual lens, no auto-focus, no electrical connections to the body. So I set the lens to f/2 (it does f/2 to f/22) and put the camera in manual mode. I figured I'd need to set the aperture on the body as well so that it could correctly calculate exposure, but it only gives me a choice of f/1.4 or f/1.6. What gives?

This is the first I've ever heard of any Av value but "00" with a non-communicating lens.

Where are you seeing 1.4 and 1.6?




  
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hobs1466
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Post edited 3 months ago by hobs1466.
     
Jun 24, 2022 05:08 as a reply to  @ John Sheehy's post |  #2673

Definitely in the Q menu aperture setting field, but I think also in the view finder.




  
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John ­ Sheehy
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Jun 24, 2022 05:32 |  #2674

hobs1466 wrote in post #19395540 (external link)
Both in the view finder and in on the screen if I go into the Q menu and try to change aperture.

What if you replace the lens with a body cap? Do you still get those numbers?

Are you sure the lens doesn't have a focus confirmation chip? Can you see that there are no contacts on the lens?

If the camera thinks that the f-ratio is f/1.6 or f/1.8, it may cause a slightly over-bright image if the lens is actually much slower because the photosites on the sensor do not receive all the light that they should in theory, with small pixels and f-ratios lower than 2.8, as the camera usually pushes the conversions a little, but otherwise, you shouldn't have any issues with metering, but your EXIF info will be wrong all the time for the Av value..

Other than the fast lens issue I mentioned above (which could cause the images to look like up to +1/3 stop of exposure compensation, the camera should have no problem with exposure just because it doesn't know the real Av value (f-ratio). Whathappens when you actually take photos? I would expect the only problem to occur when you set the shutter speed and ISO manually in Tv mode, and the Av value can't be automated by the camera, but very few people use that mode (Tv) with manual ISO settings. Most people do not want the Av value to float all over the range.




  
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hobs1466
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Post edited 3 months ago by hobs1466.
     
Jun 24, 2022 06:08 as a reply to  @ John Sheehy's post |  #2675

To be honest, I'm not 100% sure about the lens communication. The product description and specs indicate that it does not communicate with the body at all. The q&a about it on B&H give somewhat mixed information, but the answers predominantly say it does not communicate at all. Yet there appear to be some contacts.

I'll have to do some playing.




  
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hobs1466
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Post edited 3 months ago by hobs1466.
     
Jun 24, 2022 06:22 |  #2676

Okay, second newbie question in two days...

What color space are poeple shooting?

I started a photography class at my local community college and one of the first things the instructor said was that you definitely want to shoot AdobeRGB because it has 16 million colors while the default sRGB only has 256.

Some googling the next day quickly revealed that as false and that they both provide 16.7 million colors. More importantly, it seems like while AdobeRGB does offer a roughly 35% broader color pallette, it is primarily intended for prints. Anything on a screen is going to be sRGB, either natively or converted. That conversion can be done manually, which works well, but if not it will be done on the fly by the displaying software/hardware which frequently does not work well. So it seems to me that unless you are dealing primarily/exclusively with high quality physical prints, sRGB is the way to go.

Of course it seems like if you just shoot raw it is a moot point since it seems you can set the color space to whatever you want in processing. Which I suppose raises a related question. Do you shoot raw, jpeg or both? I have generally been doing both, figuring it gives you the best of both worlds. I'm seriously considering switching to just raw though. While I have been shooting a lot of pictures, I generally only post/share/print a select few of them and I do at least minimal touch-up before doing so. So having the jpgs out of the camera doesn't really save me any time and costs me a lot of space.




  
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sparksdjs
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Jun 24, 2022 08:07 |  #2677

hobs1466 wrote in post #19395570 (external link)
Okay, second newbie question in two days...

What color space are poeple shooting?

I started a photography class at my local community college and one of the first things the instructor said was that you definitely want to shoot AdobeRGB because it has 16 million colors while the default sRGB only has 256.

Some googling the next day quickly revealed that as false and that they both provide 16.7 million colors. More importantly, it seems like while AdobeRGB does offer a roughly 35% broader color pallette, it is primarily intended for prints. Anything on a screen is going to be sRGB, either natively or converted. That conversion can be done manually, which works well, but if not it will be done on the fly by the displaying software/hardware which frequently does not work well. So it seems to me that unless you are dealing primarily/exclusively with high quality physical prints, sRGB is the way to go.

Of course it seems like if you just shoot raw it is a moot point since it seems you can set the color space to whatever you want in processing. Which I suppose raises a related question. Do you shoot raw, jpeg or both? I have generally been doing both, figuring it gives you the best of both worlds. I'm seriously considering switching to just raw though. While I have been shooting a lot of pictures, I generally only post/share/print a select few of them and I do at least minimal touch-up before doing so. So having the jpgs out of the camera doesn't really save me any time and costs me a lot of space.

I shoot only RAW on my 90D & G7X Mk II and ProRAW on my iPhone 12 Pro Max when I use it. Part of that is that I really enjoy post-processing (Lightroom Classic). I'll occasionally shoot JPEG when I just want a quick picture of something to give to someone else right away.


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John ­ Sheehy
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Jun 24, 2022 16:14 |  #2678

hobs1466 wrote in post #19395562 (external link)
To be honest, I'm not 100% sure about the lens communication. The product description and specs indicate that it does not communicate with the body at all. The q&a about it on B&H give somewhat mixed information, but the answers predominantly say it does not communicate at all. Yet there appear to be some contacts.

I'll have to do some playing.

If there are contacts, then there is probably a focus confirmation chip that makes the AF points light up in manual focus. If the camera thinks that the lens is f/1.6 or f/1.8, though, that may cause default conversions to push the images about 1/3 or 1/4 stops brighter, because most digital sensors with smaller pixels (at least front-side-illuminated ones) lose some of the extra light that the lens passes when a fast lens is opened wide.

There may be other EXIF info passed by the lens to the camera.




  
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hobs1466
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Jun 24, 2022 21:42 as a reply to  @ John Sheehy's post |  #2679

The auto focus points definitely do not light up.




  
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gewb
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Jun 26, 2022 15:56 |  #2680

June 24, 2022 before dawn while gazing at the planet alignment.


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90D / 60D / Pro1 / A85

  
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hobs1466
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Jun 27, 2022 07:47 as a reply to  @ gewb's post |  #2681

Gorgeous! Exactly the kind of thing I'm hoping to achieve.




  
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hobs1466
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Jun 27, 2022 07:51 as a reply to  @ sparksdjs's post |  #2682

Curious why you went with Lightroom Classic?

At the moment I've just been using Canon's DPP. I did play with an evaluation version of Elements because it allowed me to make a collage I was trying to do, but Adobe does not seem to be overly clear about the differences between Photoshop and Lightroom, other than that Lightroom Classic is not subscription based ( a big plus as far as I am concerned). And why would I want Photoshop/Lightroom over the less expensive Elements?




  
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Jeff ­ USN ­ Photog ­ 72-76
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Jun 27, 2022 08:15 |  #2683

IBIS where is it?

I went to the camera and in Camera setup #8

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode
DIGITAL IS OFF
ON I was told by people that is for movies only

the Manual on page 290

Camera #8

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode
IS MODE OFF
ON

#3 page 291 Select (Still photo IS)

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode

Still photo IS ALWAYS
Only for the shot


BUT IT IS NOT ON THE CAMERA MENU!


"sometimes having is not so pleasing as wanting, it is not logical but it is true" Commander Spock
"Free advice is seldom cheap" Ferengi Rule of Acquisition #59
I might not always be right, but I am never wrong! Once I thought I was wrong but I was mistaken!

  
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Jeff ­ USN ­ Photog ­ 72-76
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Jun 27, 2022 08:22 |  #2684

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19396831 (external link)
IBIS where is it?

I went to the camera and in Camera setup #8

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode
DIGITAL IS OFF
ON I was told by people that is for movies only

the Manual on page 290

Camera #8

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode
IS MODE OFF
ON

#3 page 291 Select (Still photo IS)

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode

Still photo IS ALWAYS
Only for the shot


BUT IT IS NOT ON THE CAMERA MENU!


I think I found it, it only shows with NON-IS lenses and you can feel it working. I had to search for a non-IS lens, don't have many. With an IS lens if camera #8 is set to on then it is controlled by the Lens IS, if lens IS is on it works (?) I can't feel it however in the camera body


"sometimes having is not so pleasing as wanting, it is not logical but it is true" Commander Spock
"Free advice is seldom cheap" Ferengi Rule of Acquisition #59
I might not always be right, but I am never wrong! Once I thought I was wrong but I was mistaken!

  
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Inspeqtor
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Jun 27, 2022 08:25 |  #2685

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19396831 (external link)
IBIS where is it?

I went to the camera and in Camera setup #8

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode
DIGITAL IS OFF
ON I was told by people that is for movies only

the Manual on page 290

Camera #8

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode
IS MODE OFF
ON

#3 page 291 Select (Still photo IS)

IS (Image Stabilizer) Mode

Still photo IS ALWAYS
Only for the shot


BUT IT IS NOT ON THE CAMERA MENU!

Huh? Why are you telling us this? What is IBIS? Must be something to do with Image stabilization....


Charles
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Tokina AT-X Pro DX 11-20 f/2.8 * Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4 DC Macro OS * Sigma 150-600 f5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM Contemporary
Canon 18-55 IS Kit Lens * Canon 70-300 IS USM * Canon 50mm f1.8 * Canon 580EX II

  
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