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Thread started 28 Sep 2008 (Sunday) 14:51
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What's Your Computer Build?

 
sapearl
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Jun 23, 2022 19:11 |  #2341

Speaking of hard drives, what is your preferred method for moving your image files - JPG's, TIFFs, etc. and other misc. data - from the hard drives on the old machine to the new build?

Once the new PC is built I'll be doing a fresh install of all my programs onto the new NVMe drives. However I've got about 3-4TB of images I'd like to simply copy over. I don't want to go up to the cloud and then down to the new machine. I'm a bit rusty on all the new networking features of Win 10 and Win 11 but don't they have the ability to allow both machines to direct connect or easily go through my home router?

I know there's some third party s/w out there that will help, or I could just plug one of my backup drives to the new machine and copy it over. TBH I'm pretty good about backing up but not 100% so that's why I'd prefer to copy over from my main working drive to be on the safe side. Any suggestions?


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Jun 23, 2022 21:48 |  #2342

sapearl wrote in post #19395383 (external link)
Speaking of hard drives, what is your preferred method for moving your image files - JPG's, TIFFs, etc. and other misc. data - from the hard drives on the old machine to the new build?

Once the new PC is built I'll be doing a fresh install of all my programs onto the new NVMe drives. However I've got about 3-4TB of images I'd like to simply copy over. I don't want to go up to the cloud and then down to the new machine. I'm a bit rusty on all the new networking features of Win 10 and Win 11 but don't they have the ability to allow both machines to direct connect or easily go through my home router?

I know there's some third party s/w out there that will help, or I could just plug one of my backup drives to the new machine and copy it over. TBH I'm pretty good about backing up but not 100% so that's why I'd prefer to copy over from my main working drive to be on the safe side. Any suggestions?

I'd been keeping all my data files on their own drives for a couple of decades before I got a NAS. Copy all your data files to a separate hard drive now. Then copy them back where you want them in your new computer. Or just use that drive as a D: from now on.


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sapearl
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Jun 23, 2022 21:53 |  #2343

RDKirk wrote in post #19395447 (external link)
I'd been keeping all my data files on their own drives for a couple of decades before I got a NAS. Copy all your data files to a separate hard drive now. Then copy them back where you want them in your new computer. Or just use that drive as a D: from now on.

Thanks RD. I've already got a separate 4 TB drive that holds all the images but that's an internal drive. Of course I do have the external backup drives in there own "boxes," the one box-of-drives and then the DROBO.


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Jun 23, 2022 22:24 |  #2344

sapearl wrote in post #19395450 (external link)
Thanks RD. I've already got a separate 4 TB drive that holds all the images but that's an internal drive. Of course I do have the external backup drives in there own "boxes," the one box-of-drives and then the DROBO.

Just move that drive over to your new build. The new build won't know the difference.


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sapearl
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Jun 24, 2022 06:34 |  #2345

RDKirk wrote in post #19395454 (external link)
Just move that drive over to your new build. The new build won't know the difference.

Very true - that would be the easiest and most straightforward. Of course I have to do a 100% "inventory" check to make sure everything on the current working drive (old machine) is matched by its backup. I'm sure there have been some lapses on my part in accuracy over the past 7+ years and hundreds of subdirectories ;-)a


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Jun 25, 2022 01:58 |  #2346

If you do need to get new drives, the backblaze hard drive reliability report is very useful.

When buying many drives (e.g for a NAS) I always mix manufacturers to reduce the problem of design/manufacturing batch problems.




  
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sapearl
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Jun 25, 2022 09:04 |  #2347

anwarp wrote in post #19395902 (external link)
If you do need to get new drives, the backblaze hard drive reliability report is very useful.

When buying many drives (e.g for a NAS) I always mix manufacturers to reduce the problem of design/manufacturing batch problems.

Thanks - good advice to keep in mind.
Knock on wood I've been fortunate with all my WD's. Of course the DROBO and other box of drives are turned off when I'm not performing backups, so they are idle most days.


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Post edited 8 months ago by nrowensby. (3 edits in all)
     
Jul 04, 2022 19:27 |  #2348

Motherboard: ASUS B550F

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800x

CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 (Black Edition)

GPU: MSI RTX1650 (needs to be upgraded)

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200

Hard Drive(s):
WD Blue 500GB SSD (OS & Software)
WD Blue 500GB SSD (Scratch Disc & Storage)
Samsung 1TB HDD (Storage)

Power Supply: Corsair CX650X

OS: Windows 10 Pro

Case: NZXT H510B-W1 (White)

Display(s):
Acer ED270R (x2)
LG E2351 (Vertical)

I/O Devices:
Keychron K4 Mechanical 98% Keyboard w/NK_Cream Switches
Logitech MX Master 2S

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Aug 23, 2022 03:32 |  #2349

My Vega 64 died last week and replaced it with a 6700XT and pulled the waterloop out and just running air for the first time in 16 years or so on a rig.

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Aug 23, 2022 05:52 |  #2350

Sorry to hear about the DOA Vega 64. Did you previously have one of those custom built waterloop systems or was it like the simple all-in-one solutions they now offer connected to 2-3 fans?


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Post edited 6 months ago by By-tor.
     
Aug 23, 2022 06:32 |  #2351

Always custom. The purchased the Vega 64 when released so it lasted a long time and was getting a bit long in the tooth in newer games.

Here's an image of it watercooled..

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sapearl
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Aug 23, 2022 08:18 |  #2352

By-tor wrote in post #19418556 (external link)
Always custom. The purchased the Vega 64 when released so it lasted a long time and was getting a bit long in the tooth in newer games.

Here's an image of it watercooled..


Hosted photo: posted by By-tor in
./showthread.php?p=194​18556&i=i149524050
forum: Computers

Very nice! I'll be going with a new custom build this fall and am considering the Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE LCD Display Liquid CPU Cooler. It's not cheap, but it will be paired with the 12900K and I want a factory sealed system.


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Post edited 2 months ago by Methodical. (3 edits in all)
     
Jan 17, 2023 13:47 |  #2353

After many years sitting, I finally completed a build I started 6 years ago. I dubbed the build...The ReBuild as I scrapped most of the old hardware that I purchased for the build back then (CPU, MB, memory, storage) for newer hardware to ReBuild the PC. I have been surviving with my originally built PC from November 2011, which is still going strong and will also get an update soon (CPU and MB). I also expect to keep the ReBuild for 11 years or more, too. I included a quick snap shot of the build on my workbench before I cleaned up the wiring and I still need to work on shutting down those LED lights (not a big fan of the LED rainbows). I will then get some better photos of the build.

Below are the major specs.

The ReBuild
Case: Caselab Magnum STH10
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X (water cooled)
Memory: Gskill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5 (6000 @ 64gb)
Storage: WD M.2 NVMe 2TB (OS), 2x4TB (Photography), 1TB (Games)
MB: Asus X670E Hero
GPU: EVGA 3080Ti FTW3 Hydro Copper
PSU: EVGA P2 SuperNova 1200 Platinum

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Jan 17, 2023 14:28 |  #2354

nrowensby wrote in post #19400226 (external link)
Motherboard: ASUS B550F

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800x

CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 (Black Edition)

GPU: MSI RTX1650 (needs to be upgraded)

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200

Hard Drive(s):
WD Blue 500GB SSD (OS & Software)
WD Blue 500GB SSD (Scratch Disc & Storage)
Samsung 1TB HDD (Storage)

Power Supply: Corsair CX650X

OS: Windows 10 Pro

Case: NZXT H510B-W1 (White)

Display(s):
Acer ED270R (x2)
LG E2351 (Vertical)

I/O Devices:
Keychron K4 Mechanical 98% Keyboard w/NK_Cream Switches
Logitech MX Master 2S

Hosted photo: posted by nrowensby in
./showthread.php?p=194​00226&i=i222150738
forum: Computers


Quite a good build, I've tried to install the coolermaster myself but the prongs on that is a bit of a B**** to put on. I gave up.


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Jan 17, 2023 17:39 as a reply to  @ Methodical's post |  #2355

In the past, it was easy enough for me to find the leads running to fan LEDs
and cut them, thus cutting power to them.
Nowadays, there's more likely to be a software utility which can control them,
or you can just take my approach.


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