-= Canon EOS R6 Mark II owners unite! Post photos and discuss.

Tommydigi wrote in post #19511570
This may be a dumb question but I never used Eye detect before the R62. When you're shooting sports with lots of people in the frame like volleyball or basketball I'm assuming it's probably better not to use eye detect? Seems more practical to use single point?

From my standpoint if I spend the money on ML tech I want to take full advantage of it. Watch this video between minutes 2:40 and 6:00. Minute 3:10 has the best example. It is a Sony vs R3 shootout but is all the same. There is no real terminology as this is a user created process. I call it pre-focus or override. See how he uses Expansion AF to hone in on his desired subject when the camera does not cooperate.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=LGrEWOZYgDw

I have been shooting like this for over a year now. The AF-ON was introduced 20 years ago? Excellent addition but with the new eye AF I don't need it for its designed purpose. I've gone back to the shutter button for both AF and Metering. I use AF-ON as the AF override. When the AF cannot find the eye of my desired subject I press AF-ON which switches to Single Point AF. I physically move the camera so the single AF point lands on the desired subject. When the subject comes into focus I release the AF-ON and the eye snaps in. You don't have to put the Single Point on the eye. Anywhere on the body will do as you seen in that video. Fast and easy and if it fails you are can just use the Single Point AF.

Also in the Purple AF menus on page 3. Preview AF. This single lined AF square starts to look for an eye after the camera wakes up. No need to press any buttons. If you lift your finger off the shutter past half way and it stops to AF the white square takes over and the system continues to AF.

Some like to map the * button for the override. I prefer my method because I don't have to lift my thumb off the AF-ON and press a different button. I did map the * button for Zone AF for BIF but I often use it for static subjects as well. Remember just the the body has to get into focus first. Zone AF has more coverage.

Tommydigi wrote in post #19511822
I set my camera up with back button focus for single point and for eye. I followed this video to set up my camera https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=n98hqGtzUw0

I'm still getting to know the camera but when I try to focus on something quickly say for example someone approaches the net, if I use the eye detect I'm almost always getting the wrong person, or a person in the background. I guess I just need some practice or maybe I'll stick with single point until I get a better feel since that's what I used to.

I really haven't had much time to spend with it.

I think the use of the centre back wheel button to allow one to select the face is a key to this. I have had the focus system occasionally pick the wrong subject, but by pointing the centre of the display at my preferred subject and just pressing that centre button, the focus system selects my subject and locks on after that.

Time spent practicing is the key. These new focus systems need time and practice to adapt and get the hang of them. I have seen a lot of people complain about how their R-series bodies don't focus, but very often it is not systemic, nor an individual camera fault, but rather how the focus was configured or used.

Tronhard wrote in post #19511956
I think the use of the centre back wheel button to allow one to select the face is a key to this. I have had the focus system occasionally pick the wrong subject, but by pointing the centre of the display at my preferred subject and just pressing that centre button, the focus system selects my subject and locks on after that.

Time spent practicing is the key. These new focus systems need time and practice to adapt and get the hang of them. I have seen a lot of people complain about how their R-series bodies don't focus, but very often it is not systemic, nor an individual camera fault, but rather how the focus was configured or used.

This is new tech and IMO astounding for the first release. However it is still just a computer trying to figure out what you want. I expect it to fail but I changed my approach and now I make do what I want instead of the other way around. I haven't engaged the joystick nor do I use the LCD to move the AF point around. Too slow. When I override I just more the camera to land the AF point on my subject. What I learned is you have to forget your DLSR and retrain you brain. In 10 years we won't be having these conversations. The chip in our brain will instruct the camera

You must unlearn what you have learned

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7fw49NqiTQw

The R6II can perform

I found Jan Wegener's setup video for this camera to be very helpful in fine tuning the setup for me. Also Whistling Wings Photography has some great setup videos for the other R series cameras. Jan's was specific for this model and filled in a couple of gaps in the other videos.

Whistling Wings' Ron is very knowledgable. He has been guiding me in Central Florida for many years. Very knowledgeable, great guide, excellent photographer.

Both wildlife, BTW.

I am going on an overseas trip later this year and want to bring minimum gear. Deciding between this and the R5 for the trip. Thought about buying something smaller for the trip but decided against it. I have two compact cameras if I change my mind (Canon G15 and Sony RX-100 II which doesn't have a viewfinder but takes great photos)......will probably bring the R6II as the battery life is superior to that of the R5, despite the higher MP count of the R5.....decisions decisions........

edmidlifecrisis wrote in post #19512048
I found Jan Wegener's setup video for this camera to be very helpful in fine tuning the setup for me. Also Whistling Wings Photography has some great setup videos for the other R series cameras. Jan's was specific for this model and filled in a couple of gaps in the other videos.

Whistling Wings' Ron is very knowledgable. He has been guiding me in Central Florida for many years. Very knowledgeable, great guide, excellent photographer.

Both wildlife, BTW.

I am going on an overseas trip later this year and want to bring minimum gear. Deciding between this and the R5 for the trip. Thought about buying something smaller for the trip but decided against it. I have two compact cameras if I change my mind (Canon G15 and Sony RX-100 II which doesn't have a viewfinder but takes great photos)......will probably bring the R6II as the battery life is superior to that of the R5, despite the higher MP count of the R5.....decisions decisions........

I emailed Ron to ask him s few questions and he responded. Nice fellow. In all honesty for web viewing I prefer a lower megapixel camera. It may not crop as well as an R5 but it will crop. Imported to Lightroom and minimal editing.

Sometimes when I release the shutter my camera keeps shooting, sometimes about 5 or 6 more photos. Does anyone else have this issue with the R6 Mark 2? It's happened 3 or 4 times now, seems strange.

Tommydigi wrote in post #19512391
Sometimes when I release the shutter my camera keeps shooting, sometimes about 5 or 6 more photos. Does anyone else have this issue with the R6 Mark 2? It's happened 3 or 4 times now, seems strange.

I’ve never experienced that. Is your shutter button sticky?

I don’t think it’s sticky. I have a few buttons assigned to things so maybe I’m doing something on accident

Tommydigi wrote in post #19512391
Sometimes when I release the shutter my camera keeps shooting, sometimes about 5 or 6 more photos. Does anyone else have this issue with the R6 Mark 2? It's happened 3 or 4 times now, seems strange.

I have two R6ii bodies. Hasn’t happened to either one.

R6 and R6II here. Never had this problem unless I forgot that I had the camera set to do it.

Tronhard wrote in post #19511956
Time spent practicing is the key. These new focus systems need time and practice to adapt and get the hang of them. I have seen a lot of people complain about how their R-series bodies don't focus, but very often it is not systemic, nor an individual camera fault, but rather how the focus was configured or used.

I wholeheartedly agree with you, Trevor. Also with the rest of the paragraph.

I have said it from early on after purchasing the R6 back in 2020: you cannot shoot these mirrorless cameras like you do a DSLR. And the only way to have the camera do what you want it to do is to get to know the camera and experiment and test different settings and button customisations. Learn what works for you and what doesn’t. And give yourself time to really get to know the camera.

I would also like to add to not put too much faith in YouTubers. Yes, people like Wegener and Bielefeld are great. However, their settings suit them best but might not actually be best for how you shoot. Use their settings as a starting point but not as something that is written in stone.

I myself started with Wegener’s settings and they simply didn’t work for me. I had the distinct feeling that his settings didn’t take full advantage of the R6’s amazing AF system. So I began to experiment, try out different settings and button customisations and after a couple of months I landed on a set-up that did and still does work very well for me. So that is maybe also something to keep in mind.

digital paradise wrote in post #19512008
This is new tech and IMO astounding for the first release. However it is still just a computer trying to figure out what you want. I expect it to fail but I changed my approach and now I make do what I want instead of the other way around. I haven't engaged the joystick nor do I use the LCD to move the AF point around. Too slow. When I override I just more the camera to land the AF point on my subject. What I learned is you have to forget your DLSR and retrain you brain. In 10 years we won't be having these conversations. The chip in our brain will instruct the camera

You must unlearn what you have learned

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7fw49NqiTQw

“You must unlearn what you have learned”
Yes! Well said, DP.

Levina de Ruijter wrote in post #19512541
I wholeheartedly agree with you, Trevor. Also with the rest of the paragraph.

I have said it from early on after purchasing the R6 back in 2020: you cannot shoot these mirrorless cameras like you do a DSLR. And the only way to have the camera do what you want it to do is to get to know the camera and experiment and test different settings and button customisations. Learn what works for you and what doesn’t. And give yourself time to really get to know the camera.

I would also like to add to not put too much faith in YouTubers. Yes, people like Wegener and Bielefeld are great. However, their settings suit them best but might not actually be best for how you shoot. Use their settings as a starting point but not as something that is written in stone.

I myself started with Wegener’s settings and they simply didn’t work for me. I had the distinct feeling that his settings didn’t take full advantage of the R6’s amazing AF system. So I began to experiment, try out different settings and button customisations and after a couple of months I landed on a set-up that did and still does work very well for me. So that is maybe also something to keep in mind.

Good points all. OF course in Ron's case he isn't just a youtuber because I have been shooting with him on his boat for many years and he is always helpful with setup and settings in person!! And tries to keep up with new models and their settings.

And yes they are a good starting point. Wegener's video covered a few settings that no one else seemed to cover that appear to be eccentric to the R6II and I found them very helpful. Yes I am always refining my settings but you have to start somewhere!!

Question about eye focus. If you put the focus point over a subject and then press the button to enable eye detect, ( even if other people are in the frame ) shouldn't it focus on that persons eye, not someone in the background? or does the camera just look for any eye?