7D Changes Modes Far Too Easily

apersson850 wrote in post #19527690
I didn't do it, but when I used my 7D cameras frequently, Canon released an option to send the camera to them and get the mode dial replaced with a new design, with a locking button in the center. For a fee.
Don't know if they still do that to such an old camera.

I used to carry two 7D bodies on a Black Rapid Dual Strap and many times a day….. BULB Mode…..
Sent in to Canon to have both Mode Dials to “Push and Turn” locking design…. No more Bulb mode.
One of my older SLR Rebel’s had the “Push and Turn” Locking Mode Dial… Why didn’t they implement that design from then on?….

TeamSpeed wrote in post #19528084
why not just make it a habit to validate the dial setting is M when you pull out the camera?

Thanks for your thoughts and interest.

In use, that camera is hanging on my left side and the right-side camera is usually in my hand --- until I need more reach - and I need it QUICK !

Probably 90% or more of the photos I take are with me either being in a moving conveyance of some kind or other --- a big truck, a team wagon, a tractor wagon; I am moving; my target is often also moving; I just ain't got time to be examining and repositioning controls.

Even when I am standing firmly on the ground, my target is often there one second and gone the next.

BuckSkin wrote in post #19528139
Thanks for your thoughts and interest.

In use, that camera is hanging on my left side and the right-side camera is usually in my hand --- until I need more reach - and I need it QUICK !

Probably 90% or more of the photos I take are with me either being in a moving conveyance of some kind or other --- a big truck, a team wagon, a tractor wagon; I am moving; my target is often also moving; I just ain't got time to be examining and repositioning controls.

Even when I am standing firmly on the ground, my target is often there one second and gone the next.

I understand completely, I shoot sports with 2 bodies slung over my torso. I never had the issues with my 7D though like that, but again, if the dial is getting jostled about somehow, sometimes the easiest solution is exactly that.... the easiest solution. Why not get a roll of black gaffers tape and start with that first? Gaffers tape doesn't leave residue behind, is easy to remove when needed, and will protect the dial?

I would try those first than to try to figure out the Cx modes. I use Cx during sports as well, but I have to have the setting turned on at a minimum where it automatically tracks my changes and stores them, much like how M would work. I primarily moved to using Cx for sports because I would store custom WB settings in each for the different venues, that way I didn't have to keep messing with that and could just jump right in shooting the action.

Nick5 wrote in post #19528137
One of my older SLR Rebel’s had the “Push and Turn” Locking Mode Dial… Why didn’t they implement that design from then on?….

You would think that would have been the smart thing to do.

We have two Rebel T3 that have seen far more combat duty than our 7ds and 7DMkII, mostly because we had them for a long time before getting the bigger cameras; I have never had either of the T3 to switch modes on me.

Your mention of the Rebel with the locking dial made me get up and investigate one of the T3; the T3 doesn't have any sort of lock(I wasn't sure until I looked); but, the T3 has a lot more "notch" than the 7D; and, the position of the ON/OFF switch seems like it may help in preventing inadvertent movement.

I have had the T3 to turn themselves OFF a few times.

Another advantage of the T3 is concerning that little wheel behind the shutter-button, the one I use to run the shutter speed up and down; the T3, I can feel it "CLICK" every step of the way, with plenty of "notch"; the 7D are almost as good in that regard; alas, the 7DMkII seems to have no notch at all and is gradually becoming more and more intermittent in it's behavior.

Well, in all the many Canon cameras we have owned, I had never before messed with the custom mode positions.

It took me much longer to find the page and read through the instructions than it took to actually implement the changes; it really helped when I realized I was looking at the 7DMkII manual; it all started making sense when I looked in the 7D manual.

Setting these up is simplicity itself !

Now, all three of my "C" positions are exact duplicates of my "M" Manual settings.

For anyone following along that may wish to do likewise, it basically amounts to choosing your preferred mode, Manual in my case, then setting up the camera including all customized features, such as back-button focusing (which you probably already have set up); leave the camera in the chosen mode; go into the menu and register and then save your settings into all three "C" positions; you do this all while the camera is in your chosen mode.

BuckSkin wrote in post #19527498
I always keep my cameras on RAW/Large-jpeg; somehow or other, I took about a dozen photos that, when I got them home to the computer, I discovered they were jpegs with no RAW counterparts; I still haven't figured out how I managed that; I thought the RAW/Large-jpeg choice carried through all modes, but obviously not.

I discovered the answer to this mystery.

All three of my "C" positions were set to "P" mode and Large jpeg only; when the dial got knocked over into any of the "C" positions, it only saved jpegs.

I don't know if this "P" business is the factory default, or if the previous owner had set it up this way.


NOW, as for the choice of either always returning to the initially saved settings or automatically saving any changes made while shooting; while this option is available on the 7DMkII, the feature is not available on the 7D.

Actually, I think this is going to be good in my case; as, I am much less likely to change things for a particular situation and then forget to revert back to my preferred settings; like, say, I slow the shutter down and open up the aperture for a shadowy late evening situation and the next day grab the camera as I run out the door to take a picture of a fast-flying bush plane and then discover the shutter is still on 1/60 and the aperture wide open only when I find that my pictures are all a blur.

BuckSkin wrote in post #19528198
NOW, as for the choice of either always returning to the initially saved settings or automatically saving any changes made while shooting; while this option is available on the 7DMkII, the feature is not available on the 7D.

I couldn't remember if that was an option on the 7D -- it's been quite a few years since I owned one. I go back and forth as to which way I have the option set on my camera bodies.

BuckSkin wrote in post #19528198
I don't know if this "P" business is the factory default, or if the previous owner had set it up this way.

NOW, as for the choice of either always returning to the initially saved settings or automatically saving any changes made while shooting; while this option is available on the 7DMkII, the feature is not available on the 7D.

P is the default, before you store something into the custom settings.
The updated automatically didn't make it into the 7D. I typically use it if I create a new custom setting for something. I usually don't nail it on the first attempt, so after a few iterations, it's time to lock what I have then.

I am anxious to try my newfound trick in action.

Next Saturday I should get the opportunity as I have plans to go on another tractor wagon trail ride, providing Kentucky's unpredictable weather holds.

As I look through and work on the photos I took on my last trip, another problem I am seeing with this accidental mode changing business is that, if a person has things setup for back-button-focus and the dial gets relocated to any of the "C" modes, and the "C" modes are at default, it negates back-button-focus and reverts to normal shutter-button focus; thus, any heat-of-the-moment shots taken are most likely not to be in focus.

In normal single camera use, walking around in parks and zoos and such, one might very well wear the shutter out on a 7D and never be aware of this mode dial problem.

I had been on countless mule wagon rides, but had always been afraid to carry the second camera; as, teams of mules and horses that are fit enough to make such trips are also rambunctious and rowdy and it is hard enough to keep a single camera out of harms way.

To put this into perspective, lets say you have your big camera slung on your side, one boot between the spokes and on the hub and straining to get the other up on the rim so as to climb on over and the team decides to stomp at a fly or otherwise shift positions; that wheel you are standing on may very well move a quarter turn.

This was my first such trip in a big roomy tractor wagon purpose-built for such use, with a set of hand-railed steps that the feeblest(and widest) old woman could navigate without fear; unlike a team wagon where one must step through the spokes onto the hub and then on the rim and climb over the side to get in and out, not an easy feat even without a camera to try and protect; that guy up in the seat can't help you much; he's holding the team.

So, I decided to try my luck at carrying both cameras; and, thus, discovered just how easy that dial can get nudged out of position.

BuckSkin wrote in post #19529005
As I look through and work on the photos I took on my last trip, another problem I am seeing with this accidental mode changing business is that, if a person has things setup for back-button-focus and the dial gets relocated to any of the "C" modes, and the "C" modes are at default, it negates back-button-focus and reverts to normal shutter-button focus; thus, any heat-of-the-moment shots taken are most likely not to be in focus.

The risk of photos out of focus is probably significantly higher if you normally have focus on the shutter-button but accidentially change over to back-button. Going to default it will at least focus on something.

I sent my 7D in for a retro to replace the dial with a locking one. Not sure Canon still offers that. Before that I purchased heat sink that was slightly smaller than the diameter of the dial. I didn't heat it while on the cam but the more slippery surface help reduce changing modes inadvertently. You can get that at any electrical supply store.

Been quite a few years. It's actually heat "shrink" tubing.

https://www.homedepot.​ca …s/heat-shrink-tubing.html

digital paradise wrote in post #19529352
Been quite a few years. It's actually heat "shrink" tubing.

That is good thinking.

I am well versed in Heat Shrink Tubing as I use miles of it and keep a good supply of all sizes on hand.

Contrary to what you see the down-and-dirty YouTubers doing, using a cigarette lighter to shrink the tubing, I only ever use a commercial heat gun = hair dryer on steroids.

I had the same problem when I was shooting with a couple 7D, especially when shooting with both cameras. The mode dial would get bumped on my thigh while the camera was hanging from my shoulder by the strap, while I was shooting with the other camera (I put the strap for the second camera around my neck and didn't have much problem with it).

I got in the habit of hanging the camera on my shoulder backward, with the lens facing rearward, so that the mode dial was "toward the outside", not so easily bumped. That usually worked.

Occasionally when shooting something really critical I'd use a small strip of gaffer tape to secure the mode dial. That looked pretty bad, but did the trick. Had to remove the tape promptly though, in spite of what they say, gaffer tape does leave goo behind if you leave it on too long.

Canon had the program where you could get the mode dial replaced with a locking one... cost was $100 per camera, if I recall correctly. There was a Youtube video showing one of their techs doing the job. Seemed to be a pretty quick job.

BuckSkin wrote in post #19529516
That is good thinking.

I am well versed in Heat Shrink Tubing as I use miles of it and keep a good supply of all sizes on hand.

Contrary to what you see the down-and-dirty YouTubers doing, using a cigarette lighter to shrink the tubing, I only ever use a commercial heat gun = hair dryer on steroids.

A hair dryer would be as far as I would go with that. That was not my idea by the way. Got it from one of these forums.

digital paradise wrote in post #19529544
A hair dryer would be as far as I would go with that.

Maybe...; but, I don't think a hair-dryer would create enough heat to cause the shrink process; ----- I may drag out the hair-dryer the next time and see what happens.

What you want is quick heat; you want the tubing to shrink long before residual heat builds up and damages the surrounding components.

With slow heat, like a hair-dryer, by the time it got the tubing hot enough to begin the shrinking process, everything else around it would be getting hot as well.