Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Guest
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 01 Oct 2006 (Sunday) 17:15
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

My DIY Diffusor Panel and Stand

 
TMR ­ Design
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Oct 01, 2006 17:15 |  #1

I just finished making this diffusor panel and stand so I can learn some lighting techniques.

The stand and frame for the panel are made of pvc tubing and fittings. I battled with the idea of making it collapsible and trying to make it break down. Which pieces to glue was going to be an issue and the problem with not gluing something like this it that is will twist, warp its shape and pieces can come loose. I did not like that at all and in the interest of strength and the fact that at this time I don't need anything that is portable I decided to glue all pieces except for 2 joints. The entire top section lifts off the base and can be taken with me or put into a closet, etc..
In total I spent under $20 for all the pvc tube and fittings. I didn't like making the cuts using a hacksaw so I got myself a small tube cutter and it produces smooth, clean cuts that are more precise than using a saw. The tube cutter was about $10 and the glue was $3.
The 'hinge' works very well and in making it I thought ahead and got some 'O' rings to slip inside to apply some pressure and it made it nice and snug. This way the panel can rotate but will not move unless I re-position it.
The diffusor itself is a nylon fabric I got at a local fabric store for $2 per yard and I got 3 yards, adding $6 to the cost. I tried the lights behind the fabric and found that a double layer softened the light very nicely. So based on that I decided to take the fabric and make what is essentially a large pillow case to slide down over the panel frame.

All in all it works great and from initial tests I can see that the light is bright, yet soft and really allows me stop down and/or use shorter shutter speeds.

I hope to be using this very soon to start doing some portrait photography.

If anyone is interested I can give you Home Depot SKU #'s for all parts and the breakdown of parts and dimensions.


HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.



HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
cdifoto
Don't get pissy with me
Avatar
34,090 posts
Likes: 44
Joined Dec 2005
     
Oct 01, 2006 17:19 |  #2

Very creative! You could throw some reflective fabrics/panels to slip over the frame there and sell it as a kit for like 500 bucks through B&H. :)


Did you lose Digital Photo Professional (DPP)? Get it here (external link). Cursing at your worse-than-a-map reflector? Check out this vid! (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
incendy
Goldmember
Avatar
2,118 posts
Joined Jan 2006
Location: Orange County
     
Oct 01, 2006 17:57 |  #3

hehe, I made one of those too, but it doesn't look like that! I would be embarressed to show mine cause it looks thrown together=D Great job, it looks very nice and easy to use!


Canon 5d with 35mm 1.4L, 24-70mm 2.8L and 135mm 2.0L

My site: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/incendy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
JMHPhotography
Goldmember
Avatar
4,784 posts
Likes: 1
Joined May 2005
Location: New Hampshire
     
Oct 01, 2006 18:35 |  #4

now that's just awesome. I'm interested for sure. I would imagine you could even make the panel bigger like full length.


~John

(aka forkball)
Have a peek into my Gearbag. and My flickr (external link)
editing of my photos by permission only. Thanks

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TMR ­ Design
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Oct 01, 2006 18:59 |  #5

forkball wrote in post #2063271 (external link)
now that's just awesome. I'm interested for sure. I would imagine you could even make the panel bigger like full length.

Thanks man. I drove myself nuts for a while thinking about panel size, height, etc. The panel itself is 33" x 39". I played around with adding a smaller pivoting panel in the bottom section of the stand to have lighting at ground level that could also be directed upwards and will probably modify what I have to add that lower panel. At first I did not want to do it but now I can see its usefulness and it's a simple modification. I will be sure to post an updated picture.

I just did some more tests and since I do not have a subject here now I decided to have a go at it myself using the self timer and me as the subject.

I think that considering I am using an A620 with halogen lights and have never used any lights before this came out pretty good.

Please look at the lighting and not the subject..lololololol and let me know what you think and where I can improve. Right now there is just one light source behind the diffusor.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
pparker
Senior Member
479 posts
Joined Apr 2006
     
Oct 01, 2006 20:27 |  #6

I made mine from 1" schedule 40 PVC for weight and strength since I'm using a 42 X 73 inch panel. I like your design better for a smaller panel than mine.


Pete Parker from a three stoplight town in Texas

http://pparker.zenfoli​o.com/p610500614/ (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Lotto
Goldmember
Avatar
2,750 posts
Likes: 192
Joined Mar 2005
Location: Southern California
     
Oct 02, 2006 04:51 |  #7

Wow, that setup looks sweet. I tried diffusing hot light before, it was tough. But I bet you had lots of fun making it.


5D, 24-105L, 70-200L IS, 85mm Art, Godox

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TMR ­ Design
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Oct 02, 2006 08:01 |  #8

Lotto wrote in post #2065030 (external link)
Wow, that setup looks sweet. I tried diffusing hot light before, it was tough. But I bet you had lots of fun making it.

It really was fun to make and even more fun to use it the first time.

Oh yes.... I found that the diffusion was not that great with one layer of the fabric. Even though I lose a little light I chose to use a double layer and it really makes the difference, especially with halogen lights.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TMR ­ Design
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Oct 09, 2006 21:02 as a reply to  @ TMR Design's post |  #9

Here are the dimensions and parts for the stand and panel.

Please keep in mind that working with PVC tubing can be tricky and you must adjust as you go, checking angles and correct positioning.

To use a very old but good cliche.. "Measure twice (or three times) and cut once".

The entire stand and diffuser are made of 1/2" PVC tubing and fittings, all of which can be found in the plumbing department of a Home Depot or similar store. For this type of structure it does not pay to use 3/4" PVC. It is wider but just as flexible or inflexible at these lengths.

Some of the pieces are joined together with male-to-male couplers, cut into 1.25" pieces of 1/2" PVC tubing. With the exception of these short couplers and the actual 1/2" tubing I have included pictures of the parts needed, including the optional rubber 'O' ring that is found in the plumbing department with parts for sink, tub and toilet repair. I used a #13 'O' ring and it's a perfect, snug fit. You can insert it into the Tee on either the stand or panel. It accomplishes the same thing either way.The PVC riser is 2" x 1/2" and is also found in the plumbing department.

All dimensions shown are the actual lengths of the cut pieces of PVC, not the assembled dimensions. When assembling it is crucial that you measure and insert the pieces equally to ensure proper fitting. Be very careful when using the PVC cement. It dries ridiculously fast and becomes unmovable within about 20 seconds at most. I made pencil marks so I knew how far to insert each piece and marked all angles during 'mockup'. Then when I disassembled and reassumbled using the glue I had marks to follow and then could make fine adjustments as it came together. I advise you to NOT break the whole thing down before gluing. It is better to disassemble and reassemble a section at a time and readjusting pieces as others are glued in position.

PVC Part (Quantity)
Tee Connector ( 20 )
End Caps ( 4 )
45° Elbows ( 8 )
90° Elbows ( 6 )
4 Way Coupler ( 2 )
Riser ( 2 )
#13 'O' Rings ( 2 ) optional

PVC Tube Cut Length (Quantity)

4" ( 4 )
35.5" ( 6 )
5" ( 4 )
10" ( 4 )
10.25" ( 4 )
18" ( 2 )
6.5" ( 4 )
21" ( 4 )
30" ( 2 )
17.5" ( 4 )
1.25" ( 10 ) couplers

You can cut the PVC with a hacksaw but I prefer the pipe cutter. You can cut exactly on your mark with more precision and less effort. There are many brands and types of PVC cement but since I was not concerned with the quality of the seal as I would if I were doing plumbing then you can use any PVC cement and I chose the cheapest I could find that had a brush in the cap. I also got some Goof Off, which if you have never used it before, it will remove all the gum and glue left behind from parts that have a sticker or label on them. Some parts at Home Depot have the barcode stamped right on them and some have it on a sticker. Goof Off is great to get any residue off of anything (but don't use it on your camera or anything with a finish).

Once you have the frame for the panel assembled then you can measure and make the diffuser. I used a white nylon fabric I got from a local fabric store and essentially created a large pillow case to slide over the panel frame and left an opening on each side to allow for the Tee connector to slip through. Using a double layer of fabric allows lots of light to pass thought it but also softens the light nicely.

I hope my pictures are clear. If anyone needs more detail I can help you out.

Enjoy!


HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.



HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
cataclysmcow
Member
Avatar
204 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Jul 2006
     
Oct 09, 2006 21:07 as a reply to  @ TMR Design's post |  #10

Wow, all the work you put into the schematic and parts list is really appreciated.

After building and using it do you feel that the three lower cross braces are needed? Could we knock that down to two or one?




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
cgratti
Lord_Malone, your still a newb...
Avatar
3,315 posts
Joined Feb 2004
Location: E-A-G-L-E-S - EAGLES
     
Oct 09, 2006 21:10 |  #11

WOW, thanks for taking the time to post all this... you be da man!



Canon 30D

Canon 10D
Canon 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 II USM
Apple iMac G5



  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TMR ­ Design
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Oct 09, 2006 21:17 |  #12

cataclysmcow wrote in post #2099186 (external link)
Wow, all the work you put into the schematic and parts list is really appreciated.

After building and using it do you feel that the three lower cross braces are needed? Could we knock that down to two or one?

Here's this thing. There is a certain flexibility in PVC tubing and once you have long vertical pieces there is some movement. I added those braces for 2 reasons after modifying the design a bit. One, they gave me height that I honestly did not figure into the original design, and Two.. with the added height came a bit of instability. For the cheap cheap price of the tube and fittings I added the braces to raise it up and not add to the length of the vertical tube. The other thing I should mention that I did not in the post was that I left 2 key joints unglued just where the top section under the second brace meets the third brace which keeps the base stable. This lets me lift it off the base in one piece and the top holds its shape. If it were just one brace it would be ok but not as strong. I was going for function and strength.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
pparker
Senior Member
479 posts
Joined Apr 2006
     
Oct 09, 2006 21:59 |  #13

Excellent illustration Robert. I used a Lastolite diffusion panel on mine that cuts your light by 1.25 stops.


Pete Parker from a three stoplight town in Texas

http://pparker.zenfoli​o.com/p610500614/ (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
mjordan
Goldmember
Avatar
1,339 posts
Likes: 5
Joined Apr 2002
Location: Hillsboro, OR
     
Oct 09, 2006 22:55 |  #14

You did a pretty good job. I like the pillow case idea. When I made a light panel, I went with a much simpler design made from two panels hinged together that allowed it to free stand. I didn't glue my pieces together since they were fit together pretty tight and that way I could break it down for storage or hauling around. Here is a picture of the light panel I made:

IMAGE: http://www.sitnprettyphoto.com/display/panel5a.jpg

I used Sport Nylong rather than Ripstop because it was a bit thicker and had a smooth texture like a softbox nylong rather than the zig-zag lines that Ripstop has.

On the example images you posted, it looks like the color balance is off a bit. But that's an easy fix.

Mike

Hillsboro, OR
Canon 1DMKII and lots of "L"
http://www.sitnprettyp​hoto.com (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TMR ­ Design
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Oct 09, 2006 23:01 |  #15

mjordan wrote in post #2099597 (external link)
You did a pretty good job. I like the pillow case idea. When I made a light panel, I went with a much simpler design made from two panels hinged together that allowed it to free stand. I didn't glue my pieces together since they were fit together pretty tight and that way I could break it down for storage or hauling around. Here is a picture of the light panel I made:

QUOTED IMAGE

I used Sport Nylong rather than Ripstop because it was a bit thicker and had a smooth texture like a softbox nylong rather than the zig-zag lines that Ripstop has.

On the example images you posted, it looks like the color balance is off a bit. But that's an easy fix.

Mike

Yeah Mike,

The color balance is not right. I used the Tungsten setting and probably should have set white balance myself. It was also my very first picture taken using lights and my introducitons to lighting.

I am a sponge for information and if there are any tips you can offer for lighting and color balance I would appreciate it. I would like to achieve the best lighting and color before I go in to post-process.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

34,179 views & 0 likes for this thread, 23 members have posted to it.
My DIY Diffusor Panel and Stand
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Forums   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset   •  Home

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.58forum software
version 2.58 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is JTravLog
782 guests, 118 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.