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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 21 Feb 2007 (Wednesday) 11:36
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Lens for MTB racing - poor light?

 
CycleLife
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Feb 21, 2007 11:36 |  #1

Now getting used to my 30D with 17-85IS and looking to by a new lens or two. I need more speed (2.8 min) and something a bit wider - most of my shots are at 17mm at present, shot in woodland usually with cloud cover (being in the UK:().

Considering also the Sigma 70-200 at the the other end - but it may not get much use, so should I be looking for a longer lens still as I'm keen to get into birding photo's and give the 70-200 a miss?

There are so many choices and I need to spend my money wisely!

Your help Ladies and gentleman please.

Ta


Canon 30d,Canon G6. 17-85mm IS, 70-210mm(1990)

  
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jdmwerks
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Feb 21, 2007 11:49 |  #2

I really like my nifty fifity (50 f/1.8 ) for mountain biking. But it sounds like you want something wider.


7D \\ 10-22mm \\ 35L \\ 50mm f/1.4 \\ 70-200 f/4 L

  
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CycleLife
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Feb 21, 2007 13:29 |  #3

I may try my old 50mm 1.8 and see what happens but I suspect I may be too close most of the time.


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angryhampster
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Feb 21, 2007 13:41 |  #4

If you want something wider than 17mm at f/2.8, the only thing I can think of is the Canon 15mm f/2.8 fisheye.


Steve Lexa
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CycleLife
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Feb 21, 2007 13:44 as a reply to  @ angryhampster's post |  #5

perhaps I need 1D Mk11N ???:oops: Don't think I'll get away with that one:lol:


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CycleLife
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Feb 21, 2007 13:45 |  #6

Ok, lets say something in the 17-40mm area but faster?


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angryhampster
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Feb 21, 2007 14:03 |  #7

CycleLife wrote in post #2749070 (external link)
Ok, lets say something in the 17-40mm area but faster?



What's your budget? The Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS is a great lens, but it costs $1000US. Also consider the Tamron 28-75 XR Di f/2.8


Steve Lexa
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Ranger123
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Feb 21, 2007 14:09 as a reply to  @ CycleLife's post |  #8

I have the same problem - especially on the tele side. I live in Sweden, and we cycle in both open and wooded areas. I have rented the 70-200 f2.8 - ok, but too heavy to carry around - especially since I'm also biking. Borrowed the 70-200 f4 which is OK sometimes, but in the wooded areas it's not good enough.

Got a recommendation to use the Canon 135 f2 L, but I haven't tried it yet (can't rent it locally).

Ended up buying the 70-200 f4 as an all purpose tele lens, because just like you I shoot mostly on the wide side - (well, actually on 28 mm on a 1.6 crop, which is not that wide). I did some quick financial calculations and quickly understood that the best mtb tele for me is my legs - move in closer if you are in the woods. And use a flash or two. But if you insist on a tele in the woods, and you've got the money, try out the 135 mm prime, and let me know the results.

On the wide side - Are you using a flash? I use flash a lot of the times because on so many shots the riders are looking down at the ground and the flash is needed to lighten up the faces. That's also something to factor in if you are going to use the tele. So 17-40 with a flash should be OK

I just got a 10-22, which I'm going to try out when spring comes along. I'd like to get a little bit wider than today - I'm not expecting great things from it, but we'll see if I can figure out a good set up with some flashes. Will get back on the forum about that when that happens.

Also - when considering what lens to buy you also have to factor in the cost for the next bike. The next bike is always going to be more expensive than the next lens.


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Ranger123
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Feb 21, 2007 14:10 |  #9

As angryhamster is suggesting I'm using the Tamron as the standard lens...


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kumicho
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Feb 21, 2007 14:14 |  #10

angryhampster wrote in post #2749148 (external link)
What's your budget? The Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS is a great lens, but it costs $1000US. Also consider the Tamron 28-75 XR Di f/2.8

the Tamron 17-50 2.8 is probably closer to the 17-40mm that the original poster was asking about, although not sure if USM/HSM is needed for mtb shots. how about the canon 20mm 2.8 prime? will probably be picking up the 17-50 Tamron for my "walkaround" lens, but not sure how it will do for biking.


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Canon EOS M
Canon 22mm f/2.0

  
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angryhampster
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Feb 21, 2007 14:15 |  #11

kumicho wrote in post #2749195 (external link)
the Tamron 17-50 2.8 is probably closer to the 17-40mm that the original poster was asking about, although not sure if USM/HSM is needed for mtb shots. how about the canon 20mm 2.8 prime? will probably be picking up the 17-50 Tamron for my "walkaround" lens, but not sure how it will do for biking.



I'm not sure why I even mentioned the 28-75..that's going in the complete opposite direction :lol:

Disregard!


Steve Lexa
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Ranger123
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Feb 21, 2007 14:17 |  #12

Yup - it's not very wide... The 17-50 will most likely be a very good alternative.


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AB8ND
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Feb 21, 2007 14:18 |  #13

AS much as I hate to flash to shoot shorts, I'm finding it almost necessary as a fill light. Then you need to be close enough for a strobe to reach the subject. I'm not font of shooting to open as then your focus needs to be spot dead on accurate, 2.8 seems to be the max I'd open up. Can't believe we used to focus manual that fast. I like then Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, I have used the nifty fifty 1/8 for panned shots, but usually stick with the Tamron. Nice thing with Mountain Bike Races is that you can normaly get rather up close and personal with the riders so a long lens isn't that necessary, unless as I do getting the tight face shots.

Jack




  
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Ranger123
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Feb 21, 2007 14:25 |  #14

I agree with AB8ND on that you can't shoot too open because there's going to be a lot miss focus shots.

Is the 17-50 a fast lens? I've been thinking of switching the 28-75 to a 17-50, but then again I like the 50-75 range on that lens... I really like the Tamron - one of my favourite lenses of all times.


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CycleLife
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Feb 22, 2007 04:15 |  #15

We have to be careful with flash,as in downhill races it can be very distractng (blinding) for the riders and shud only really be used once the rider is past you. Quite a few nasty crashs have been caused by photographers getting it wrong! 30+mph + trees + rocks + mud etc + blinding flash = CRASH.

This is nt proving to be an easy choice.


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Lens for MTB racing - poor light?
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