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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 04 May 2007 (Friday) 08:37
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Make Digital Infrared Photos with Canon EOS 350d/400d!

 
Jon
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May 16, 2007 11:10 |  #91

Steve Beck wrote in post #3214766 (external link)
I have been through this whole thread and can not really find info on exactly what you have to do about cusatom white balance. What exactly are steps for the WB? With a r72 filter etc....

It's not complicated, really. As CDS said take your sample picture, with the IR filter on, of some grass in the sun instead of a grey card. Then set as normal.


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SlvrScoobie
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May 16, 2007 12:50 as a reply to  @ Jon's post |  #92

you need to go to menu, choose "Custom Wb" - pick the image you just took of the grass, and then press SET




  
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Grimm75
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May 16, 2007 13:03 |  #93

Have you guys been blurring your WB photo? That was what I did, aim at sunlight grass with the filter on, make sure it's totally and completely out of focus, then take the WB shot.

Just curious if you are all using out of focus shots or not.


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SlvrScoobie
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May 16, 2007 13:13 |  #94

not on mine, just reg. shots




  
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SlvrScoobie
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May 17, 2007 13:37 as a reply to  @ SlvrScoobie's post |  #95

So - Im still undecided against colorful IR and Colorless IR (r72 filter or RG780..)
Mainly I like the color option, but I also want to drop out the color and get those amazing black skys like in the photos above.
Is this possible with the lower, more red R72? I havent had any luck, but it also hasnt been as nice (read as low humidity) as it was in the photos of my previous IR 300D w/ RG780 filtration.

What do you all think, I like the color, but im still drawn to the B+W Ir - looks photographic with a touch, more so that artistic "false color"

:confused:




  
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astronaut
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Jun 07, 2007 02:13 |  #96

Scoobie, while the R72 filter allows colorful IR shots, what the RG780 is meant for to do... B/W shots?
And if so, is the RG much better for capturing the B/W depths?




  
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Logan7
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Jun 07, 2007 03:00 |  #97

I don't understand what you mean about white balance. Foliage is the IR equivalent of "white" in visible spectrum? In IR, a hot white object would be brighter than a cold white object as the spectrum is all about an object's temperature and heat transferrance.


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Calis
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Jun 07, 2007 03:13 |  #98

astronaut wrote in post #3214033 (external link)
Awesome shots :cool:
Did anyone explain already why the "bright blurry spot" apprears in the middle of the image when IR filter is used on a normal dSLR ? I actually don't know the explanation myself as well..

In my experience this is not a function o the camera, but the lens. For example I never get it when using my EF50mm f1.8, however with my old 300D + kit lens I always got it - but only at focal lengths >35mm.

I have had pretty good results with un-modded cameras. Firs with my old 300D and now with my 5D:

http://www.pbase.com/c​alis/300d_infra_red (external link)

A while back i wrote a quick guide to IR because I get a lot of questions from people who look at my IR site on PBase. I have cut and pasted it below (without the embedded exampe images I am afraid):

How to take & process digital IR images.

First how to take them

You will need an IR filter and a good steady tripod. It helps if you are using a very fast (f/2.8 or faster) lens as well.

So to the basics (even though you probably already know this – so skip it if you want) Your digital camera can detect both the visible and the infrared spectrum. In normal photography this is a pain, as the focal length needed to get a sharp image with IR is a bit offset from visible light, so there is a risk of an out of focus IR image over the top of all your ‘normal’ pictures. This is why all digital cameras have some king of low pass filter which attempts to block out the IR spectrum. With my Cannon 300D this is a very strong filter (which is great for non-IR pics), so I have to use very long exposures to compensate – you may not have to.

The IR filter you fit to the front of your lens (I use a Hoya IR72) works the other way round to your camera’s internal filter. It blocks out most of the visible spectrum leaving only the IR spectrum to play upon your camera’s sensor.

You will not be able to see through the filter so you will need to compose the picture on a tripod and then put on the filter. The great thing about digital is that you can check the exposure, I usually start somewhere around 10sec at f2.8 and see how it comes out – then adjust till the exposure is spot on. I have found that a long exposure with low ISO (100) gives better results than a shorter exposure with a high ISO. This may only be the case with my camera, so you should experiment. On very bright days you can let the f stop out a bit to give better DOF at the expense of a longer exposure.

There is a lot of confusion over focus and IR. This is because in the manual focus world of film photography if you focus by eye and then put on an IR filter the shot will be out of focus because of the different wavelengths of IR light. So most lenses have an IR offset on the focusing scale so you can adjust for this. With auto focus this is not an issue – the AF system will focus on whatever light it is getting & with an IR filter fitted it is only ‘seeing’ the IR spectrum and so will focus on this.

Image settings – if your camera allows you to create RAW images I strongly suggest that you do so, as this gives you a good deal of control of the post processing without losing any image quality (which may well be worse than you are used to because of the long exposures). If you don’t have RAW use the highest quality settings your camera will allow.

Finally – this is digital, not film so take lots and lots of shots. With long exposures there is much more scope for movement issues, hot pixels, light changes etc and it’s costing you nothing.

Post Processing
(I am assuming Photoshop as the processing software)

There are two approaches here: The first creates a mono black and white image; and the second a pseudo colour one.

The first is much the easiest:
• Open your picture
• Crop to taste
• Open the channel mixer window (images, adjustment, channel mixer)
• Click in the mono checkbox and adjust the sliders till the image looks right. (trying to keep the sum of the values to around 100) click ok
• Go to levels and move the outside sliders to just clip the curve and move the mid tome one round till you are happy
• Use unsharp mask to sharpen it all up (settings will vary depending on the image, but 100, 1.9, 3 will be a good place to start.
• Save As (so the original is unchanged so you can try it again)


The second is a bit trickier (but not when you know how!):

With my set-up this is what IR images look like straight from the camera
You can see there is a very heavy red cast to them. The first job is to swap the red and blue channels. I do this by using the channel mixer. You will see a drop down at the top of the window showing you which channel you are working with, and 3 sliders. It opens in the red channel and all you have to do is move the red slider to 0 and the blue to 100. Then, using the drop down at the top, select the blue channel and move the blue slider to 0 and the red to 100. Then click ok.

The picture should look something like this:

The next bit is where you can play around a lot, open up the levels tool. You will see the 3 pipette buttons in the bottom right. To use these click on the black one and then click on your picture in an area you want to be black, do the same for the white. Then click the grey one and try clicking on different parts of the image until you get an effect that you like. In this case I selected one of the white buildings and ended up with this:


Phil
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S-S
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Jun 07, 2007 03:26 |  #99

SlvrScoobie wrote in post #3209418 (external link)
Im still undecided on my filter choice. Im trying to get some of my results with the R72, as I did with the RG780, which leaves the trees white, and the sky is JET black out of the camera, like this.
I think is the best IR effect. And i dont mind doing it in PS but I think it might be a lot more work than it was with the RG780.
Sigh...

these are great - are you using just a filter or have you converted a camera body?

>> total IR-noob

can anyone humour me and tell me some recommended filters and when they should be used (in other words, what effect they will give)




  
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catz1ct
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Nov 29, 2007 17:54 |  #100

Amazing photos on here!


Canon EOS 350d
Kit Lense, Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM
, Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6, Hoya R72 InfraRed, HOYA 58mm PRO-1 Digital Series CPF

Want: Sigma 100-300mm F:4, Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS USM EF, Sigma 30mm f1.4

  
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thrash_273
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Nov 29, 2007 18:06 |  #101

those photos are awesome.


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astronaut
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Mar 18, 2008 20:35 |  #102

Digging up such an old topic here, but has anyone captured anything new and amazing to share with us from the infrared spectrum?




  
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jwkramer
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Mar 18, 2008 20:48 |  #103

astronaut wrote in post #5144178 (external link)
Digging up such an old topic here, but has anyone captured anything new and amazing to share with us from the infrared spectrum?

all the time! :-)

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
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or

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif'


Enjoy!
-Jim

You can see all my IR Work here: http://www.pbase.com/j​wkramer61/infrared_gal​leries (external link)

-Jim
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ben_r_
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Mar 18, 2008 21:48 |  #104

^^^^^ Awesome shots! Very cool!


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jasonleehl
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Mar 27, 2008 09:25 |  #105

jwkramer wrote in post #5144258 (external link)
all the time! :-)

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif'


or

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif'


Enjoy!
-Jim

You can see all my IR Work here: http://www.pbase.com/j​wkramer61/infrared_gal​leries (external link)

I love the #2. Looks like I am tempted to go to the local store to buy a Hoya Filter to try this out~ :)


You're welcome to follow me at Instagram (external link) or visit my gallery at http://www.timestoodst​ill.sg (external link)

  
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