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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Sports Talk 
Thread started 07 Aug 2007 (Tuesday) 17:54
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Lens Used Most Often For Sports Photography

 
Rhilton4u
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Aug 07, 2007 19:52 |  #31

nhbeast wrote in post #3687290 (external link)
For gymnastics and figure skating, both indoor sports with spotty lighting (at best lol) I use 70-200 f/2.8L 90% of the time.

Is that an IS or non-IS lens? I guess IS really isn't that important at high shutter speeds so isn't really needed in sports type photography right?


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nhbeast
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Aug 07, 2007 21:13 |  #32

Rhilton4u wrote in post #3687322 (external link)
Is that an IS or non-IS lens? I guess IS really isn't that important at high shutter speeds so isn't really needed in sports type photography right?

I have the non-IS version, and am extremely happy with it for what I use if for.
I went with the non IS because I knew I'd be using it mainly for this purpose (correct, IS will not help here).
Of course, if you get the IS version it can always be turned off, and then on if used for portraits, etc.


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cwphoto
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Aug 07, 2007 23:05 as a reply to  @ post 3687317 |  #33

300/2.8 IS would be my first pick. It goes to almost every sporting event with me - usually in combo with something longer or shorter, but always there.


EOS-1D X Mark II| EOS 5D Mark IV | EOS 80D | EOS-1V HS
L: 14/2.8 II | 17/4 | 24/1.4 II | 24/3.5 II | 35/1.4 II | 50/1.2 | 85/1.2 II | 100/2.8 Macro IS | 135/2 | 180/3.5 Macro | 200/2.8 II | 300/2.8 IS II | 400/2.8 IS II | 500/4 IS II | 600/4 IS II | 8-15/4 Fisheye | 11-24/4 | 16-35/2.8 III | 24-70/2.8 II | 70-200/2.8 IS II | 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS II | 200-400/4 IS 1.4x
Sundry: 600EX II-RT | 1.4x III | 2x III | 12 II | 25 II | OC-E4

  
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ed ­ rader
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Aug 07, 2007 23:08 |  #34

Rhilton4u wrote in post #3687322 (external link)
Is that an IS or non-IS lens? I guess IS really isn't that important at high shutter speeds so isn't really needed in sports type photography right?

IS works no matter what you are shooting.

ed rader


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5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS II, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, tc 1.4 III, 430exII, gitzo 3542L + markins Q20, gitzo GT 1545T + markins Q3T, gitzo GM4562

  
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cwphoto
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Aug 07, 2007 23:11 |  #35

ed rader wrote in post #3688387 (external link)
IS works no matter what you are shooting.

ed rader

But can be distracting and unnecessarily drain the battery.


EOS-1D X Mark II| EOS 5D Mark IV | EOS 80D | EOS-1V HS
L: 14/2.8 II | 17/4 | 24/1.4 II | 24/3.5 II | 35/1.4 II | 50/1.2 | 85/1.2 II | 100/2.8 Macro IS | 135/2 | 180/3.5 Macro | 200/2.8 II | 300/2.8 IS II | 400/2.8 IS II | 500/4 IS II | 600/4 IS II | 8-15/4 Fisheye | 11-24/4 | 16-35/2.8 III | 24-70/2.8 II | 70-200/2.8 IS II | 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS II | 200-400/4 IS 1.4x
Sundry: 600EX II-RT | 1.4x III | 2x III | 12 II | 25 II | OC-E4

  
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ed ­ rader
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Aug 07, 2007 23:13 |  #36

cwphoto wrote in post #3688410 (external link)
But can be distracting and unnecessarily drain the battery.

batteries are cheap. i leave IS on all the time.

ed rader


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS II, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, tc 1.4 III, 430exII, gitzo 3542L + markins Q20, gitzo GT 1545T + markins Q3T, gitzo GM4562

  
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stevefossimages
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Aug 07, 2007 23:19 |  #37

I'm with Ed.

IS helps in sports photography. Even while tracking moving action, the panning IS mode helps stabilize the photographer's motion, especially if technique slips a bit now and then.

Technique always has been and still is the best assurance that the photographer will produce sharp action images, but IS is an additional card in the deck, and a pretty good one at that. Why remove one card from the deck, particularly a face card?


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cwphoto
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Aug 07, 2007 23:22 |  #38

ed rader wrote in post #3688417 (external link)
batteries are cheap. i leave IS on all the time.

ed rader

Who said it was about price?

Best practice is to leave it off for sports most of the time.


EOS-1D X Mark II| EOS 5D Mark IV | EOS 80D | EOS-1V HS
L: 14/2.8 II | 17/4 | 24/1.4 II | 24/3.5 II | 35/1.4 II | 50/1.2 | 85/1.2 II | 100/2.8 Macro IS | 135/2 | 180/3.5 Macro | 200/2.8 II | 300/2.8 IS II | 400/2.8 IS II | 500/4 IS II | 600/4 IS II | 8-15/4 Fisheye | 11-24/4 | 16-35/2.8 III | 24-70/2.8 II | 70-200/2.8 IS II | 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS II | 200-400/4 IS 1.4x
Sundry: 600EX II-RT | 1.4x III | 2x III | 12 II | 25 II | OC-E4

  
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ed ­ rader
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Aug 07, 2007 23:28 |  #39

cwphoto wrote in post #3688466 (external link)
Who said it was about price?

Best practice is to leave it off for sports most of the time.

why do you worry about battery drain? i can go all day on two batteries in my battery pack, and if not i have spares with me.

i just can't see why battery drain is an issue, especially when batteries are so cheap :D.

i leave IS on all the time.

ed rader


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS II, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, tc 1.4 III, 430exII, gitzo 3542L + markins Q20, gitzo GT 1545T + markins Q3T, gitzo GM4562

  
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cwphoto
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Aug 07, 2007 23:36 |  #40

stevefossimages wrote in post #3688448 (external link)
I'm with Ed.

IS helps in sports photography. Even while tracking moving action, the panning IS mode helps stabilize the photographer's motion, especially if technique slips a bit now and then.

Technique always has been and still is the best assurance that the photographer will produce sharp action images, but IS is an additional card in the deck, and a pretty good one at that. Why remove one card from the deck, particularly a face card?

I'm all for IS in general, but for most sports applications it's counter-productive.

1) It needs priming. By the time it kicks in you've probably already done your sequence, so what's the point? Unless you keep it engaged all the time which eats batteries and requires your finger to be always on a button.
2) The viewfinder jumps around at times when first engaged - distracting when you are trying to properly frame a shot with a split-second window of opportunity.
3) Consumes more battery power. No-one wants to change batteries in the middle of an event if one can help it.

For slow motorsports pans I can see the value in mode 2 IS, also for any other general slow-shutter speed work (such as tight shots of team huddles at the breaks, or shots of the coaching box (which is normally shaded) during the game etc).

I don't know any high-end pro sports shooter who uses IS for normal 'play'.


EOS-1D X Mark II| EOS 5D Mark IV | EOS 80D | EOS-1V HS
L: 14/2.8 II | 17/4 | 24/1.4 II | 24/3.5 II | 35/1.4 II | 50/1.2 | 85/1.2 II | 100/2.8 Macro IS | 135/2 | 180/3.5 Macro | 200/2.8 II | 300/2.8 IS II | 400/2.8 IS II | 500/4 IS II | 600/4 IS II | 8-15/4 Fisheye | 11-24/4 | 16-35/2.8 III | 24-70/2.8 II | 70-200/2.8 IS II | 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS II | 200-400/4 IS 1.4x
Sundry: 600EX II-RT | 1.4x III | 2x III | 12 II | 25 II | OC-E4

  
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stevefossimages
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Aug 07, 2007 23:37 |  #41

cwphoto wrote in post #3688466 (external link)
Best practice is to leave it off for sports most of the time.

Just your say-so doesn't make it so. Defend that statement.


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cwphoto
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Aug 07, 2007 23:39 |  #42

ed rader wrote in post #3688491 (external link)
why do you worry about battery drain? i can go all day on two batteries in my battery pack, and if not i have spares with me.

i just can't see why battery drain is an issue, especially when batteries are so cheap :D.

i leave IS on all the time.

ed rader

See above ^^^. It's the changing that's the issue. You can buy all the batteries you want, but having them peg-out prematurely can be a problem during an event.


EOS-1D X Mark II| EOS 5D Mark IV | EOS 80D | EOS-1V HS
L: 14/2.8 II | 17/4 | 24/1.4 II | 24/3.5 II | 35/1.4 II | 50/1.2 | 85/1.2 II | 100/2.8 Macro IS | 135/2 | 180/3.5 Macro | 200/2.8 II | 300/2.8 IS II | 400/2.8 IS II | 500/4 IS II | 600/4 IS II | 8-15/4 Fisheye | 11-24/4 | 16-35/2.8 III | 24-70/2.8 II | 70-200/2.8 IS II | 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS II | 200-400/4 IS 1.4x
Sundry: 600EX II-RT | 1.4x III | 2x III | 12 II | 25 II | OC-E4

  
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cwphoto
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Aug 07, 2007 23:43 |  #43

stevefossimages wrote in post #3688534 (external link)
Just your say-so doesn't make it so. Defend that statement.

Everyone I shoot with says/does so too. I will concede that things may be different in your country, but here it's not done that way at the elite level.

Maybe the local soccer mums do it that way - can't comment on that.


EOS-1D X Mark II| EOS 5D Mark IV | EOS 80D | EOS-1V HS
L: 14/2.8 II | 17/4 | 24/1.4 II | 24/3.5 II | 35/1.4 II | 50/1.2 | 85/1.2 II | 100/2.8 Macro IS | 135/2 | 180/3.5 Macro | 200/2.8 II | 300/2.8 IS II | 400/2.8 IS II | 500/4 IS II | 600/4 IS II | 8-15/4 Fisheye | 11-24/4 | 16-35/2.8 III | 24-70/2.8 II | 70-200/2.8 IS II | 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS II | 200-400/4 IS 1.4x
Sundry: 600EX II-RT | 1.4x III | 2x III | 12 II | 25 II | OC-E4

  
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ed ­ rader
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Aug 07, 2007 23:45 |  #44

cwphoto wrote in post #3688543 (external link)
See above ^^^. It's the changing that's the issue. You can buy all the batteries you want, but having them peg-out prematurely can be a problem during an event.

a full CF card can be an issue too but i also keep those handy and sometimes when my batteries are low i replace them early. ditto for CF cards.

i'll put it this way....drained batteries haven't been a major problem for me yet.

but really we digress.

my point is you always hear that IS is not needed for sports, and that simply is not true.

IS helps to eliminate camera movement and to some degree there is always unwanted camera movement unless you are using a tripod.

now, i agree there are times when you can turn IS off and it's not going to make much difference either way but the blanket statement that IS is of no use for sports simply is not true.

ed rader


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS II, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, tc 1.4 III, 430exII, gitzo 3542L + markins Q20, gitzo GT 1545T + markins Q3T, gitzo GM4562

  
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ed ­ rader
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Aug 07, 2007 23:46 |  #45

cwphoto wrote in post #3688563 (external link)
Everyone I shoot with says/does so too. I will concede that things may be different in your country, but here it's not done that way at the elite level.

Maybe the local soccer mums do it that way - can't comment on that.

my aren't you special :D!

ed rader


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS II, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, tc 1.4 III, 430exII, gitzo 3542L + markins Q20, gitzo GT 1545T + markins Q3T, gitzo GM4562

  
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Lens Used Most Often For Sports Photography
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