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Thread started 29 Aug 2007 (Wednesday) 09:51
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HotShots
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Feb 15, 2008 21:57 as a reply to  @ post 4797856 |  #106

Thank you for for starting this thread. The information is dead on!!

My daughter had her first formal dance tonight. I've shot a lot of sports but never anything like a dance. I followed your advice and got the following shots. They are straight out of the camera and not any where near what some of you guys are doing. But, they are far better than I thought I could do.

Thanks again for sharing the advice!

How do you get your camera to focus? It was so dark in this gym my camera could barely lock the focus. I really felt like I was stalking a few people just trying to get a reasonably in focus image.


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elysium
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Feb 16, 2008 02:54 |  #107

HotShots wrote in post #4927201 (external link)
Thank you for for starting this thread. The information is dead on!!

My daughter had her first formal dance tonight. I've shot a lot of sports but never anything like a dance. I followed your advice and got the following shots. They are straight out of the camera and not any where near what some of you guys are doing. But, they are far better than I thought I could do.

Thanks again for sharing the advice!

How do you get your camera to focus? It was so dark in this gym my camera could barely lock the focus. I really felt like I was stalking a few people just trying to get a reasonably in focus image.

Really great work. The images look very natural. Great for a first attempt and no PP! I say you have done really well.

For locking on to subjects, I tend to rely on the AF assist beams from my 430ex. If the subject is too far away, manual focus and just pray my eyes dont like to me.


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c-bass
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Feb 16, 2008 15:51 |  #108

what does the second shutter sync do for this situation. i thought it was for streaking affects?


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Pete
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Feb 17, 2008 09:27 |  #109

c-bass wrote in post #4930689 (external link)
what does the second shutter sync do for this situation. i thought it was for streaking affects?

Second curtain isn't really needed.

As for the focusing problem, I was fairly safe as I wasn't too far from the subjects, and they invariably obliged by standing still and posing for me, giving the AF assist beam something easy to work on.

Nice, natural looking shots, Hot... :D


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elysium
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Feb 17, 2008 09:52 |  #110

Pete, thanks again for your tips. Here are some of mine (facebooked) - promotor added them so compression is typical facebook junk.

http://www.facebook.co​m …p?oid=865738482​2&view=all (external link)


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arrgeebee
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Feb 22, 2008 11:49 |  #111

bieber wrote in post #4762539 (external link)
Have any examples? More often than not, "improvements" seen with a Sto-Fen head on are purely incidental. Without a nearby ceiling or walls, the laws of physics tell us that the "diffuser" isn't doing anything but throwing light all over the place where you don't need it, and in the process wearing your battery down much faster...

Here's an example. Top shot is direct flash, bottom is stofen straight on. There are obvious differences in glare.


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Feb 22, 2008 11:51 as a reply to  @ arrgeebee's post |  #112

Pete,

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. As others have said, reading this thread caused a light bulb to go off in my head and I now finally "get it".


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Pete
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Feb 22, 2008 14:17 |  #113

arrgeebee wrote in post #4972036 (external link)
Pete,

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. As others have said, reading this thread caused a light bulb to go off in my head and I now finally "get it".

Many thanks. When I started this thread, I really didn't expect it to be received this way. Great to see that it's inspired people into trusting both Manual mode and ETTL.


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Feb 22, 2008 17:00 |  #114

arrgeebee wrote in post #4972027 (external link)
Here's an example. Top shot is direct flash, bottom is stofen straight on. There are obvious differences in glare.

Sort of. There was something nearby that the omnibounce bounced some light off of, which meant that less of the light in the scene came from the direct flash that produced that glare, resulting in slightly better light. You may also note, however, that the glare is still there, and exactly the same size as before, because you're still using direct light from a light source effectively the same size (the biggest improvement between the two images is your white balance, relatively, the glare is hardly even a noticeable difference). Now, if you'd just taken the omnibounce off and pointed the flash at whatever surface you were getting reflected light off of, then the glare would disappear altogether...


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Mar 03, 2008 07:00 as a reply to  @ bieber's post |  #115

Hi Peter ,just tried your method in my garage ISO 1600 F4 at 1/100 i think may have been 1/125, white balance adjusted with eyedropper on the number on the bike.The garage wasn't completely dark but a good result anyway.Forgot to mention i used the stofen and reduced the flash by 2/3 stophttps://photography-on-the.net …250313&stc=1&d=​1204549124


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elysium
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Mar 03, 2008 07:10 |  #116

Good test. You should try the same shot with a lower ISO. Will help people to understand why higher ISO is important for ambient exposure.


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wayne33
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Mar 03, 2008 07:18 as a reply to  @ elysium's post |  #117

Ok here is one shot at ISO 800 ,but i don't think there is any differencehttps://photography-on-the.net …250315&stc=1&d=​1204550303


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Mar 03, 2008 07:37 as a reply to  @ wayne33's post |  #118

Ok, feel free to ignore me if this seems way off base, but --

With the motorcycle setting so close to the wall, will changing the ISO make that much of an impact? I would think the flash could be strong enough to keep the wall lit.

Changing the ISO will have a definite impact if the motorcycle was setting in the middle of the garage. Or, if you were at a party in a large room.

Just my "still learning" .02 cents.

TDF




  
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Mar 04, 2008 12:42 |  #119

HotShots wrote in post #5038449 (external link)
Ok, feel free to ignore me if this seems way off base, but --

With the motorcycle setting so close to the wall, will changing the ISO make that much of an impact? I would think the flash could be strong enough to keep the wall lit.

Changing the ISO will have a definite impact if the motorcycle was setting in the middle of the garage. Or, if you were at a party in a large room.

Just my "still learning" .02 cents.

TDF

Changing the ISO from 1600 down to 800 would result in a slower shutter speed. In thise test example, all that would happen would be that you might get a bit less noise and a bit more camera shake (although this is in part offset by the flash "freezing" the shot).

I'd like to see that same test shot at the same settings, but in manual mode (just to see what the flash added to the result).


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charly
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Mar 25, 2008 21:23 as a reply to  @ Pete's post |  #120

Most xcellent thread Pete!
Question...is there something that can be done to help eliminate the shadow created behind the subject due to flash?

charly




  
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