2 strobe setup? One on camera

Hey people. As far as lighting goes, I'm an amateur. I'm looking to take some portrait type shots (nothing too professional, but decent), but only have 2 strobes (sig). Considering the 580 has to be on camera (no triggers), can you suggest the best setup?

How about a sync cord and an optical slave so you can get both flashes off camera and more options.

martinsmith wrote in post #5346125
How about a sync cord and an optical slave so you can get both flashes off camera and more options.

That could work. Cost is an issue atm though.

Martinsmith, I am in much the same postioin as PAFC2004. Is there a way to run a sync cord to both my 550EX and my 380EX? You mentioned an optical slave. Which of my strobes would be master and wich slave. Arn't the optical slaves rather expensive? I would not (at this time) have a problem with cords running to both but would like the auto metering. I'm a newbie to this flash/strobe stuff.

I would put the 580, as master on the camera. Control the 480 wirelessly and place it to one side with an umbrella or softbox, this is your main light. Get or make a diffuser for the 580, this then becomes your fill light. Set your main up with FEC = 0 and your fill at FEC = -1, to start. The subjects should turn from facing the camera to the main light until their far side ear disappears. Adjust your main light position to put most of the light on the side of the face that is away from the camera. Lift the camera side shadows with the fill light. Adjust to taste. For more information, check out Joe Zeltsman or Chuck Gardner's information on the web or search for "short lighting"

This should be a reasonable "cookbook" to get you started, but you'll need to practice.

Have Fun

Rob

If you were to use a sync cord and an optical slave, you would not have ETTL functions so you could only control flashes manually. Therefore, you have no master and slave.

Optical slaves are very cheap as are sync cords.

PAFC2004 wrote in post #5346112
Hey people. As far as lighting goes, I'm an amateur. I'm looking to take some portrait type shots (nothing too professional, but decent), but only have 2 strobes (sig). Considering the 580 has to be on camera (no triggers), can you suggest the best setup?

Very good info on multiflash setup for portraits....
http://super.nova.org/​DPR/#TOC

One important concept you will see throughout the tutorials is the importance of fill on the camera axis....this is very important to avoid creating the most flattering effect. Eventually you may want to add a flash bracket with off-shoe cord, but that is not required to start out....just shoot in landscape mode and crop later if desired.

Also, add'l technical detail on Canon wireless....
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=138907
Specifically:
ETTL Wireless Flash Tutorials

Part I - Working with a single remote flash

Part II: Working with multiple remote flashes

Part III: Working with remote flashes in Manual Mode

ETTL is a very easy way to start out using multiflash. Later, after you gain more experience, you can get greater consistency using manual flash (as described in both references), but at the expense of needing more knowledge.

Sync cord and optical slaves have their place, but again, need more experience, and possibly a flash light meter. Personally, with flashes, it is going back 20 years in time. With studio strobes, the "bother" can be worth it.

jrsforums wrote in post #5355780
ETTL is a very easy way to start out using multiflash. Later, after you gain more experience, you can get greater consistency using manual flash (as described in both references), but at the expense of needing more knowledge.

Sync cord and optical slaves have their place, but again, need more experience, and possibly a flash light meter. Personally, with flashes, it is going back 20 years in time. With studio strobes, the "bother" can be worth it.

I don't agree. I have owned my camera for less than a year and have no issues using manual flash power settings and never have had. I do not own a flash metre.

Try going to www.strobist.com and picking up some info. Be warned, it's addictive!

budbon wrote in post #5346904
Martinsmith, I am in much the same postioin as PAFC2004. Is there a way to run a sync cord to both my 550EX and my 380EX? You mentioned an optical slave. Which of my strobes would be master and wich slave. Arn't the optical slaves rather expensive? I would not (at this time) have a problem with cords running to both but would like the auto metering. I'm a newbie to this flash/strobe stuff.

I will share with you what I have learned over the last few days from this site and strobist.com on this issue. I am by no means an expert and others may correct/clarify what I say, but here goes...

550EX will only work in auto ETTL mode off camera with specific ETTL compatible hot-shoe cords - problem is they are short and expensive. There are people I have seen on the web who will make modifications to your ETTL cord to make it longer - or instructions to do it yourself if you are adventurous.

You could take the 550EX off-camera with a pc sync cord, however, the flash will only work in manual mode - and the 550 does not have a pc sync port. You have to use an adapter on the foot of the flash to add a pc sync port. Problem is, most of these devices, including most wireless optical triggers, do not work properly with the 550 - they fire the first shot but then the flash has to be turned off and back on to fire it again. You must use an adapter designed specifically to work with the 550 to use an optical trigger or pc sync cord.

380EX will not work as a slave to the 550EX. As a result, I think you could probably use it off camera in ETTL mode with an ETTL cord similar to the 550 - but they can't work together as a two-unit ETTL set-up. Also, since the 380EX has no manual capability - it will only fire at full power if you get the right adapter and use it with a pc sync cord.

flashzebra.com is often referenced on this site and sells the necesary adapters and sync cords to work with the 550. This is the route I am going to get my 550 off camera to create a flexible 3-unit light system, along with 2 Vivitar 283's on optical slaves. I would just use all 383's - but I do appreciate the 550's ETTL when I need it on camera.

Bottom line, Canon makes this all a big PITA, but there are options available.

Optical slave plus short sync cord, long sync cord will be surprisingly inexpensive. Just ordered for very similar setup from www.flashzebra.com. Lon will tell you just what you need.

If your flash units don't have PC connectors you will need PC to hot shoe adapters too, which cost $11.00. The whole thing should cost around $50.00.

If you have a light stand set the 430 on that, if not just tie the 430 onto something up high and point it towards your subject.

Set up the flash ratio on the 580 (it's all in the manual). To start with turn the master off.

Set your camera to manual. Set the max sync shutter speed (1/250 ?). Set desired f/stop. Dim the lights in the room or close the curtains if you're using a wide aperture. Set WB to flash.

Experiment with this set up from different angles (change your and subect angle if you can't move the 430). I remember how liberated I felt controlling the direction of the main light.

When you're bored of this, start experimenting with fill (from the 580). Turn the master back on. Point the 580 at the subject. Play with the ratio and see what you like.

When you have something you like you can start using modifiers. The one that comes with the flash are the white cards. So start with pointing the flash(es) straight up with the white cards out and repeat the experiments.

By this time you'd either have some setup you're happy with or your subject has walked away from boredom.

Well....ya pays your money, ya takes yer chance (or choice, as it may be)

You can pay the manufacturer (Canon or Nikon) for their highly functional, but costly wireless flash control. Or you can use what 'Strobist' primarily promotes, which are PWs (PocketWizards), which are also expensive.

In between are PC cords, optical slaves, and ebay remotes....all of which have levels of unreliability or "PITA" (I love being teathered to a wire ).

Actually, I have a lot of respect for David (Strobist), just differ that, for me, the Canon wireless works better for what and how I shoot. If I was shooting in basketball arenas or with multiple, different types of cameras/flashes, I might go PWs.

I think that David gives a pretty balanced view of the choices here: http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …s-nikon-cls-which-is.html

Obviously, the choice is yours to make.....

shutterfiend wrote in post #5357022
If you have a light stand set the 430 on that, if not just tie the 430 onto something up high and point it towards your subject.

Set up the flash ratio on the 580 (it's all in the manual). To start with turn the master off.

Set your camera to manual. Set the max sync shutter speed (1/250 ?). Set desired f/stop. Dim the lights in the room or close the curtains if you're using a wide aperture. Set WB to flash.

Experiment with this set up from different angles (change your and subect angle if you can't move the 430). I remember how liberated I felt controlling the direction of the main light.

When you're bored of this, start experimenting with fill (from the 580). Turn the master back on. Point the 580 at the subject. Play with the ratio and see what you like.

When you have something you like you can start using modifiers. The one that comes with the flash are the white cards. So start with pointing the flash(es) straight up with the white cards out and repeat the experiments.

By this time you'd either have some setup you're happy with or your subject has walked away from boredom.

I agree with the need to experiment to learn your equipment (practice, practice, practice). I do not agree that you should do it with a willing....soon to be unwilling...subject. The key is to be prepared ahead of time....what even your choice of equipment.